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Portable Steel Targets?

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I'm probably going to join CJRPC in the near future and have started to look at / research portable steel targets (as well as paper target stands too) for the outdoor range. Here's my question:

 

I notice that most of the steel targets rated for 9mm - 30.06 all say they are designed for "soft nosed bulets only" and that they should never be used with FMJ rounds. What is considered a soft nosed bullet, a hollowpoint? So I can only use hollow points with these targets? Isn't that rather expensive? Or am I not understanding this correctly?

 

Anyway, I'd like to hear (and see) what others here bring to the outdoor ranges for personal use. I myself would like to have a paper target stand as well as one or a few steel targets too. (without needing a truck and forklift to get it there.)

 

862374.jpg

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If you look at the reviews for that target, they are not that great although the videos on you tube make it look simple to repair.

 

I have steel targets from GT Targets

 

http://www.gttargets.com/

 

There will be an expense up front but they are worth it. Mine have thousands of rounds on each and still look almost brand new.

 

If you want to practice for steel challenge, you will need at least 5 targets and stands. For USPSA practice I only use 2-3 pieces of steel.

 

Use static steel and not reactive steel so that you can maximize you sessions.

 

Brian

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This setup from Big Dog steel is pretty cool. Im going to swipe this for Rifle.

steel.jpg

 

Then for pistol in the pits ill get 3 of these for $34

steel2.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PW8ZVO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A364EMG98WC7R6

 

Then mix in a couple cardboard targets and have a pretend stage for practice.

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What about this part though:

 

I notice that most of the steel targets rated for 9mm - 30.06 all say they are designed for "soft nosed bullets only" and that they should never be used with FMJ rounds. What is considered a soft nosed bullet, a hollowpoint? So I can only use hollow points with these targets? Isn't that rather expensive? Or am I not understanding this correctly?

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I think they just say that to cover themselves legally. But say it was true... Cast/lead bullets

 

They are also much cheaper. ( as of now thats all i shoot due to cost)

 

As a reloader i can buy 500 lead semi wadcutter heads for $32 as opposed to 500 fmj heads for $115/500 (45ACP)

 

Edit: In my research of this same thing this week, everyone says keep at least 25 yards back with pistol and 100 yards back with rifle and you will have no worries

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Lol 25 yards back with pistol and you're more likely to hit the frame than the target itself.

 

Youre right its 15 yards, with pistol

 

http://www.gongshot....el-targets.html

 

But these guys say 150 with rifle. Others say 100 is fine

 

--------------------

Edit: While national police supply state's

 

 

> Minimum recommended distance with a handgun and standard lead ammunition is 7 yards

* Minimum recommended distance with a rifle is 100 yards unless using our specific rifle targets

 

http://www.nationalp...ety_and_Use.pdf

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"Big Dog" Rocks - I like his products.

 

I like his portable folding target stand $65 and the set of square targets in 3/8" thick. Think that would work at CJRPC?

Does CJRPC stipulate what kind of ammo you can / cant shoot at the outdoor range at steel targets? Think others are shooting FMJ rounds at targets?

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I hate carrying bulky plates and stands and this and that to the range. Plus I have a hatchback so I only have so much room.

 

I have these:

http://www.arntzentargets.com/folding_stand.htm

 

And then a few plates:

http://www.arntzentargets.com/products.htm

 

That is where it's at for convenience. No large stands to bring, no plate rack that takes up enough room to fit in a pick up truck, nothing like that. The stand is somewhat expensive but is sooooo worth it. It easily and conveniently folds up, works great at the range, and a variety of plates will fit on it from ISPC plates to cowboy shaped plates. You can control how much the plate wobbles which is nice.

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"Big Dog" Rocks - I like his products. I like his portable folding target stand $65 and the set of square targets in 3/8" thick. Think that would work at CJRPC? Does CJRPC stipulate what kind of ammo you can / cant shoot at the outdoor range at steel targets? Think others are shooting FMJ rounds at targets?

 

Most people shoot FMJ at steel. It's not a big deal. I shoot steel targets up to 8 yards away and have never had any problems. But all my steel setups have some play in them so ricochets don't come back if it were to ever happen, they get deflected down into the ground.

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I hate carrying bulky plates and stands and this and that to the range. Plus I have a hatchback so I only have so much room.

 

I have these:

http://www.arntzenta...lding_stand.htm

 

And then a few plates:

http://www.arntzenta...om/products.htm

 

That is where it's at for convenience. No large stands to bring, no plate rack that takes up enough room to fit in a pick up truck, nothing like that. The stand is somewhat expensive but is sooooo worth it. It easily and conveniently folds up, works great at the range, and a variety of plates will fit on it from ISPC plates to cowboy shaped plates. You can control how much the plate wobbles which is nice.

Man I like that even better. Great and Thanks! The thread is yeilding exactly the kinds of responses and ideas I had hoped for. So far, I do like your target the best.

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If you wanna check out cool targets that are super convenient, in regards to transportation and setting up/shooting, check these out:

 

http://mgmtargets.com/tstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

 

Auto poppers are awesome because instead of having to go re-set them every time you shoot them down, they automatically pop back up. I'm planning on getting one soon.

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Most people shoot FMJ at steel. It's not a big deal. I shoot steel targets up to 8 yards away and have never had any problems. But all my steel setups have some play in them so ricochets don't come back if it were to ever happen, they get deflected down into the ground.

That thing works like a charm. And its so simple to set up too. Angled to the ground and all - what more could you ask for. Nice selection of targets too!

 

I definitely do think I am sold! THANKS again!

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That thing works like a charm. And its so simple to set up too. Angled to the ground and all - what more could you ask for. Nice selection of targets too!

 

I definitely do think I am sold! THANKS again!

 

No problem! Easy is an understatement for their target systems. I have bought numerous products from Artzen, and they are a real pleasure to deal with. They always try and help you out with shipping too.

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Do you shoot rifle at these also or just pistol? Does the plate just hang in a channel on the stand?

 

Yeah, I shoot rifle/shotgun/pistol at all my Artzen targets. Even though it's AR500 steel (the plates, not the stand), I like to dedicate plates to this or that. Like I have plates that I only shoot pistol rounds at, others for rifle, etc etc.

 

The plates do just that, there is a U-shaped cutout in the top of the stand that they are secured in. All you gotta do is put a bolt through the steel plate mounting hole, toss on a nut, and then place it in the cutout of the stand.

 

They have never fallen off, and the closest I shoot my rifle plates is at 40-50yds. Many think that is crazy, but as long as the plate is deflecting the bullets down into the ground, which it is, I have never had a problem. 7.62x54R wobbles the plates a little bit, but never has knocked them over. The only thing (hahaha) that has knocked a plate off the stand is GlennP's S&W 500...his first shot at my plate at 100yds hit dead center and hit with enough power to lift the plate off the stand mount. Pretty impressive haha.

 

Edit: Be careful with the stands though as they are just mild steel. They can take a little beating from pistol rounds but I had a guy ask if he could shoot at my plates like 3 months ago and he ended up missing the plate and shooting my stand twice...with a friggin Mosin nonetheless. I didn't even know he hit the stand until we called the line cold and I walked up to it like "what..THE..#*$*". Both rounds cut right through the stand legs, and left two huge holes in the legs. Thankfully a good friend of mine (thank you SO much bro) filled the holes in and re-welded them.

 

I learned my lesson. NEVER let anyone shoot at your steel.

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There's a bunch of good links in this thread:

 

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28129-steel-targets-whos-good/page__hl__ar500__fromsearch__1

 

I too have been looking at getting a bunch of steel targets. I'm going to start with a set of paper/cardboard target holders and slowly acquire steel targets.

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I learned my lesson. NEVER let anyone shoot at your steel.

Sounds like very good advice right there. BTW I like that you can buy different shapes / sizes of targets to hang on the frame. That offers variety. I think I'm going to start off with the "stop sign" shape but the cowboy becons me too! :fan:

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Yeah, I shoot rifle/shotgun/pistol at all my Artzen targets. Even though it's AR500 steel (the plates, not the stand), I like to dedicate plates to this or that. Like I have plates that I only shoot pistol rounds at, others for rifle, etc etc.

 

The plates do just that, there is a U-shaped cutout in the top of the stand that they are secured in. All you gotta do is put a bolt through the steel plate mounting hole, toss on a nut, and then place it in the cutout of the stand.

 

They have never fallen off, and the closest I shoot my rifle plates is at 40-50yds. Many think that is crazy, but as long as the plate is deflecting the bullets down into the ground, which it is, I have never had a problem. 7.62x54R wobbles the plates a little bit, but never has knocked them over. The only thing (hahaha) that has knocked a plate off the stand is GlennP's S&W 500...his first shot at my plate at 100yds hit dead center and hit with enough power to lift the plate off the stand mount. Pretty impressive haha.

 

Edit: Be careful with the stands though as they are just mild steel. They can take a little beating from pistol rounds but I had a guy ask if he could shoot at my plates like 3 months ago and he ended up missing the plate and shooting my stand twice...with a friggin Mosin nonetheless. I didn't even know he hit the stand until we called the line cold and I walked up to it like "what..THE..#*$*". Both rounds cut right through the stand legs, and left two huge holes in the legs. Thankfully a good friend of mine (thank you SO much bro) filled the holes in and re-welded them.

 

I learned my lesson. NEVER let anyone shoot at your steel.

 

Thanks for the great review. I just ordered 2 stands and 2 small silhouette plates. Shipping is a ****...

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Not a problem guys! Glad I helped you out. I prefer the IPSC silhouette-type targets, but that octagon plate is pretty cool.

 

Shipping is a killer, but it is what it is. When I bought my stuff, they would shrink-wrap them together to help you on shipping. Hopefully they're still doing that. Shipping everything separately can easily double the shipping price.

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For CJ, remember you need to be able to place them high unless you have them way at the back berm. THey keep chanign the number, but I think 5' will currently keep you out of trouble. That's for the 300 yard range.

 

AS for the birchwood casey "steel" targets. They are total crap. Even pistol will mess them up. Most rifle, even shooting soft points, will go right through. A 30-06 on their "up to 30-06" will go right through.

 

For the budget minded, I recommend the bunker hill auto popper self resetting plate in ar500. Bolt it to a hunk of 4x4, and drill holes so you can shove in a few lengths of rebar, and you can get them up off the ground pretty well while still being able to get it in the trunk.

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AS for the birchwood casey "steel" targets. They are total crap. Even pistol will mess them up. Most rifle, even shooting soft points, will go right through. A 30-06 on their "up to 30-06" will go right through.

 

Good advice, I forgot mentioning that.

 

The only good targets that Birchwood Casey make or any other of those cheap steel targets, are the ones designed for .22's. I had a .22 swinger with one 4'' plate and one 6'' plate that worked well and handled .22 just fine, as well as the that one design that as 4 hanging 3'' plates and they swing up when you shoot them, then you can shoot the top plate to make them fall down again. That one lasted me like 6 months.

 

But they are just that, cheap.

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Something to remember for everyone.

 

As nice as steel is to shoot at for the instant feedback, and the easily visible hit, it can also be a crutch!!!!!!

 

A lot of new (and even some seasoned) shooters tend to stay on the steel until they hear the "Ting" and then move to the next target. Remember when practicing that you are there to accurately call your shots on target. Trust your sight picture and move on. If you actually look at the steel to see the hit or hear the hit then you are eating up time!

 

I bring steel with me but standard paper targets are best to ensure accurate shot calling for almost every drill.

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Something to remember for everyone.

 

As nice as steel is to shoot at for the instant feedback, and the easily visible hit, it can also be a crutch!!!!!!

 

A lot of new (and even some seasoned) shooters tend to stay on the steel until they hear the "Ting" and then move to the next target. Remember when practicing that you are there to accurately call your shots on target. Trust your sight picture and move on. If you actually look at the steel to see the hit or hear the hit then you are eating up time!

 

I bring steel with me but standard paper targets are best to ensure accurate shot calling for almost every drill.

 

Good point

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My eye sight stinks at 25 yards and beyond that..................... Wait till you're 40+ and you will see (pun intended). That is why I like steel, I can hear it with no problem. Pull the trigger, move to the next target, should be hearing that "ting" as you are acquiring your next target, can't do that with paper.

 

I can see the paper at 7 to 10 years no problem, I also have no problem hitting where I want to at that range.

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