AR15 build question?

[bobblahblah 0]

So I am looking to build my first AR. I've decided to sell my Sig 556 and build something I am really happy with. I am pretty sure I have decided on an upper by Bravo Company USA(BCM), it seems to have the build quality I want and I have only heard outstanding things about them. Now I just have to wait until they have something in stock!

 

My real question is about lowers. I have seen lowers go for $150-$400. Is there a real difference between these? Are there any good quality lowers than anyone can suggest?

 

I've also noticed some bolt carrier assemblies are listed for Auto or Semi? Is there any actual difference between these as well?

 

I've looked through some older threads, and some of the information has been helpful, I have experience with the M4/M16 platform but I haven't attempted to assemble an AR from different manufacturers, so any advice or help will be great!

[vladtepes 1,060]

building an AR15 is similar to putting together legos.. it is literally that easy...

 

as far as lowers go.. I have had DPMS.. S&W.. Magpul (AR15.com release which was essentially a Magpul lower)

 

my favorite without question has been the AR15.com lower.. but that is just because I am bias and wanted a Magpul one..

I think most people will tell you that they are all pretty similar and standard..

 

I am not sure WHICH upper you are considering but the results I am seeing with my 14.5 in spikes upper are more than I could ask for.. will probably post pictures this evening..

 

decide EXACTLY what you want to do with this AR.. and we can tell you how to do it.. (run and gun? sit at a bench and punch paper?)

[henrym 19]

Palmetto state armory and spikes both make a good lower.

[RubberBullets 65]

Lowers range in prices for a few reasons:

Quality of Material

Type of build (forged vs milled billet) milled lowers take more time and material

Type of finish

Brand name (big reason)

 

 

Are they really worth it? probably not. I know some would argue otherwise, but a good majority of people have been buying spikes and psa lowers for <$100 for years with no issues. Others would rather spend the money to match their lower and upper, or to have the "quality name"

 

You cant go wrong with a more affordable lower as long as they are a reputable company (spikes,psa, etc)

 

 

As for the BCG, perhaps someone can chime in with the legality of using auto parts in a semi in the state of NJ. Everything ive ever read has said you can use it no problem, however im not sure if NJ puts a blanket NONO on any auto part or just the possession of all things to make a rifle full auto. For full auto, you also have to have the right safety, trigger, disconnector, hammer and bolt carrier

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Forged lowers cost about 120 bucks, I have a pa one which is pretty nice. The 400 ones u see probably come with an intergrated trigger guard, ambi mag release, and is milled from stronger aluminum. Spikes tactical is a great lower, but from what I was told by several dealers, there is 3 main companies that make lowers, and other 75 companies put there stamp on it. If I was to build another lower I would go with a noveski lower gen 2, or

http://axtsweapons.com/products/AX556 I havent held the lower in the link posted, but from reviews I have read its top of the line.

 

 

From my understanding it doesnt matter if y buy a semi or auto bolt carrier group. Most complete uppers I have looked at come with a fa bcg. Now there is different finishes nickle boron, Chrome, and a painted finish. Supposedly nicckle boron needs very little lube. I have no clue its what's advertised.

 

Now when building your lower if your anything like me, half the crap that comes in the kit you will later replace. The trigger, safety, trigger guard, and mag release.

[henrym 19]

If you want serious $ but great quality, Black Rain makes an awesome product too.

[MandM 2]

Just read an huge post about lowers probably on AR15.com... but I'll be darned if I can find it now though... there are 4 manufacturers and everybody just puts their stamp on it. Minimal differences across the manufacturers as well.

 

I bought a Spikes for my build... mainly because it was what Lou's had in stock and I didn't feel like doing the whole buy on the internet, ship to an FFL, thing. Haven't had an issue and I'm happy with everything about my build.

[raz-0 1,259]

Just read an huge post about lowers probably on AR15.com... but I'll be darned if I can find it now though... there are 4 manufacturers and everybody just puts their stamp on it. Minimal differences across the manufacturers as well.

 

I bought a Spikes for my build... mainly because it was what Lou's had in stock and I didn't feel like doing the whole buy on the internet, ship to an FFL, thing. Haven't had an issue and I'm happy with everything about my build.

 

Your statement is not correct. There are 4 major manufacturers, and the MAJORITY of lowers are done by them. However, not all, and just because the lower is sourced form them does NOT mean they do all the finishing work. Also, large buyers can get some things varied from the main supplier for your lot. So even if you have two CMT sourced lowers, it doesn't mean that (for example) hole spacing is the same. It's still a good thread that is hard to find.

 

 

As for what justifies the price difference in lowers? Well COMPLETE lowers it is easy. Triggers can cost from about $40 to $400 depending on the quality. Safeties can be from $10-180 depending on qualities and features. Stocks can be $40-$200. Complete lowers can vary a LOT in price.

 

For a stripped lower, it usually means the difference between forged, billet, and features. For forged, anything off a standard forging varies in price mostly due to branding/marketing, TLC in the final finishing touches, and how tight the tolerances are kept for things like hole spacing. For non standard forgings, a lot of the cost is in the non standard forging even existing. That isn't cheap. So stag, PSA, etc can be as cheap as $50 bought in big lots and the only thing differing really is the roll mark and serial. A noveske Gen 2 FFL is about $250. For billet, you see prices ranging form about $130 to $500. The higher prices usually reflects more features that require more machine time and/or a larger starting billet. They also tend to have features that require special lower parts that have to be included with the lower to build a functioning gun. That adds to the price.

[bobblahblah 0]

Thanks for all the info. This is the upper I am looking at to get with the FSC556 brake : http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-14-5-Mid-Length-Upper-Receiver-MI-p/bcm-urg-mid-14%20mit12.htm .

 

I'm looking for a complete lower, so far the Spikes looks pretty good. I'm just looking for something that has a good build quality, doesn't need to be anything fancy. Just durable. I shoot a lot of rounds usually, both .223 and 5.56.

 

As far as the BCG, I know the auto versions aren't banned in NJ. I just wasn't sure if there was any operational difference between the two and if it really mattered which one I bought. Since the auto needs to fire in semi-mode as well, logcially it should work the same.

 

So far everything I've priced out to ~$1400-1600 for my build. I am looking to keep it at max in that range.

[Old Glock guy 1,127]

I didn't want to start a new thread on this, but I'm curious as to what makes one decide to build an AR vs. buying one off the shelf? Does it cost less; or is it so you can customize it to your liking; or are there some other reasons? I hope this question doesn't sound like it has an edge to it, because I'm genuinely curious.

[reed338 11]

I didn't want to start a new thread on this, but I'm curious as to what makes one decide to build an AR vs. buying one off the shelf? Does it cost less; or is it so you can customize it to your liking; or are there some other reasons? I hope this question doesn't sound like it has an edge to it, because I'm genuinely curious.

 

building is fun and costs less . it can cost more also it is all about what you want

[Steve_G 51]

I didn't want to start a new thread on this, but I'm curious as to what makes one decide to build an AR vs. buying one off the shelf? Does it cost less; or is it so you can customize it to your liking; or are there some other reasons? I hope this question doesn't sound like it has an edge to it, because I'm genuinely curious.

 

I've built two, about to start a third. I do it mostly because it's fun. It also allows you to get exactly what you want but, for me, it's just about doing it myself.

[vladtepes 1,060]

I didn't want to start a new thread on this, but I'm curious as to what makes one decide to build an AR vs. buying one off the shelf? Does it cost less; or is it so you can customize it to your liking; or are there some other reasons? I hope this question doesn't sound like it has an edge to it, because I'm genuinely curious.

 

because I tend to modify EVERYTHING.. and if I build it.. I get EXACTLY what I want the first time.. so I am not paying for a bunch of useless parts I will end up replacing.. LOL

[O-gre 7]

PM on the Sig

[bobblahblah 0]

I think building for me is about getting exactly what I want in the rifle. It is hard in NJ to get certain items and features on ARs I've found that match what I want. I don't think I've seen a pre-built model that isn't ridiculously expensive that I would be totally satisfied in buying. For me, I like milspec things. I want a mil-spec upper with a legal brake , quad rails, low profile, etc. Some people may not care about any of those items, or just 1 of 3. There is a certain satisfaction in owning something that isn't necessarily owned by someone else, or has little features that I may want that others would fine unnecessary and visa verse. Kind of like building your own computer, is anyone else has done that too.

 

Plus like vladtepes said you can put it the parts you want from the beginning rather than spending extra money down the line replacing parts.

[MandM 2]

THIS.

 

For me, it wasn't about saving money, because I didn't. (I actually spent more that I originally budgeted for.) But it's a fun project, my AR is now exactly what I wanted, and I don't feel like I wasted time and money by having parts that I had to replace and will never use again.

 

because I tend to modify EVERYTHING.. and if I build it.. I get EXACTLY what I want the first time.. so I am not paying for a bunch of useless parts I will end up replacing.. LOL

[alowerlevel 77]

because I tend to modify EVERYTHING.. and if I build it.. I get EXACTLY what I want the first time.. so I am not paying for a bunch of useless parts I will end up replacing.. LOL

This ^^^. Plus when you build one you learn how everything in the gun works, then you have a better understanding of what to look for if something fails. Building is also nice if you cant afford to drop $800+ all at once, you can buy the parts as money permits.

[MandM 2]

This ^^^. Plus when you build one you learn how everything in the gun works, then you have a better understanding of what to look for if something fails. Building is also nice if you cant afford to drop $800+ all at one, you can buy the parts as money permits.

 

True... spreading the cost out is nice... but having pieces sitting around that you can't do anything with is maddening at times!

[alowerlevel 77]

True... spreading the cost out is nice... but having pieces sitting around that you can't do anything with is maddening at times!

 

Haha, it sure is. I kept staring at the stripped lower sitting in my drawer for 2 months until I got a lower build kit. Then I was staring at a completed lower for another 4 months until I finally got my upper, but the wait was worth it.

[MandM 2]

I feel the same way. My build timing was screwy. I had my stock before I had anything else. Didn't even have a lower (Which was good... I was able to pin it before anything could make it evil.) A month or so later, I had all the rest of the stuff for the lower. Then the completed lower sat for 2 months without an upper. Then I got my complete upper, but the handguards I wanted were back-ordered. So I had a nekkid rifle for about a month. But when it was finished, it was exactly what I hoped. It was worth it and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

[Kaiser7 33]

If it's a stripped lower, it's pretty much just a shell to hold parts. There probably are variances in the finish, durability, etc. but for average shooting, you'll be fine. I doubt you'll be doing a ton of abusive, commando type stuff. You could go the route I did, which was just buy a cheap stripped lower to get it running, and then swap it out for a different one later. I just bought a Del-ton lower, and though I don't think Delton has a reputation for being the pinnacle of AR parts, it's a stripped lower, it shouldn't matter that much. If I find I really don't like it, or I feel like it's holding my rifle back, I'll swap it out later.

 

That's one of the reasons that I, a person who isn't a fan of ARs am building an AR. I can build myself a basic platform, and get used to the system, and maybe down the road I can put some different, better parts in it. Best of all, it's relatively easy to do so.