Cooking your own load....

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

OK, so how long did it take you to "perfect" your super secret recipe for your particular ammo?

 

I've been reading about this reloading stuff and it seems that the more I read, the more I NEED to read. The latest was yesterday with slow burning powder v. fast burning powder and the crimp necessary for each. This had to do with rifle bullets, which I'm not going to be reloading, but still, it got me thinking.

 

How long did it take you to get your load just right?

 

I know how long it took with pizza dough, and assume it's kinda like that. Some trial and error, using different bullet weights and grains of powder?

[msg73 1]

The 'perfect' load is very subjective. Some experiment with all different types of powder and bullet weights while some go with popular 'recipies' and just stick with it. What are you trying to achieve? If you tell us what you're looking for, people can chime in to tell you their experiences...which would shorten the time experimenting. Also, what calibers will you be reloading?

 

Aside from cost, I like N320 for 9mm minor and 40 minor/major. It has a fairly soft recoil impulse, accurate, clean burning, meters well and not too temp sensitive. There may be some powders that may be better in some categories but I haven't heard of any that has it beat in all categories. IMHO, if the price of N320 was the same as most other powders ($15-$17 per lb), then I would think you would see a vast majority using it.

 

Edit: I read from your other thread that you're focusing on 9mm. I shoot 4gr of N320 with a Montana Gold 124gr CMJ bullet at 1.15". I've tried a friend's load of N320 with a 147gr bullet and it was SOFT...but I settled on the 124gr as I felt I was faster with it.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

I'm not asking for myself but just in general, but since you ask, yes, plain vanilla 9mm target loads are what I'll be first focused on.

 

I'm just wondering how long and how much time tinkering in general you guys spend working on your loads. It would seem to me that the trial and error portion would take some time.

 

Load a sample of rounds.

Go to range to shoot, diary results.

Tweak and load again.

Go to range to shoot, diary results.

Repeat and so on.

 

No?

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Aside from cost, I like N320 for 9mm minor and 40 minor/major.

How do you learn what particular type of powder you like?

 

Do they advertise burning differently (hotter v faster), or is it just from personal experience?

[Parker 213]

How do you learn what particular type of powder you like?

 

Do they advertise burning differently (hotter v faster), or is it just from personal experience?

 

Over time, either from friends, shooting partners, team members,etc., you learn what works best in a variety of situations and applications. Rifle loads are sometimes very individual from firearm to firearm and tend to be the most finicky if best velocity coupled with accuracy are the main criteria. (Usually this is the criteria for high-performance hunting loads; in target loads both parameters are not necessarily required. Most people will sacrifice a few FPS for X-ring accuracy.) Handgun loads that need to make certain power-parameters are fairly well documented. It's trial and error on the user's end to see what works best in his/her sidearm from an accuracy perspective.

 

Here's a powder burn rate chart. Not all powders (the latest) are listed here, but this gives you an idea of the plethora of offerings available that burn FAST to SLOW for pistol, shotgun and rifle applications. http://www.reloadbench.com/burn.html

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Thanks for the info and the link. I've saved it for future reference.

 

So much to learn.

[Bully 749]

For me, I have been sticking with one load for 9mm-- 4.6g Unique with a 125g LRN set to 1.15. With. 357 I play a lot more as for me it is a really fun round. My 9mm is a solid linker. My. 357 is the toy. YMMV.

 

C

[Parker 213]

Thanks for the info and the link. I've saved it for future reference.

 

So much to learn.

 

A lot of good info found on this site for reloading. There are a few "reloader" forums on the internet that are worth a look as well. One I like is: http://forums.accuratereloading.com

 

Another is: http://forums.handlo.../login_user.asp

[Sig226GuyNJ 128]

OP. Try making a post on ar15.com in the handguns section, under your handgun make. I got some good replies when I did for mine.

[msg73 1]

How do you learn what particular type of powder you like?

 

I look for the following (order of importance to me):

 

1) Accurate/Meters well - Want something that I can get consistent powder drops...this leads to better accuracy

2) Soft recoiling - This generally means a faster powder

3) Clean - The less soot I have to clean and less often the better. Although I clean my guns often, it's a quick process vs tedious scrubbing.

4) Less temp sensitive - not a big deal but wouldn't want to have to change the amount of powder depending on seasonal temps. Or have to run at a higher PF to account for it.

 

While price is also important, powder is the least expensive component (besides free pickup brass). The extra cost of N320 is only a fraction of a penny more per round.

 

Do they advertise burning differently (hotter v faster), or is it just from personal experience?

 

There are several powder burn rate chart out there. Not all order them the same but you can get a general idea.

 

You should determine the qualities you find important to you and find something that best fits the bill...then stick with it and get to learn how to shoot it well.

[NJKen 23]

It doesnt take me too long. I will load 10 in every combination with a given powder or bullet and hit the range with a chrony. Ill make sure im zero'd at 100 yards with known good ammo then blast away. That is the best way I found yet. Doing it this way I have come home and pulled a bunch of rounds down because they where hotter than anticipated. Try lots of different powders, chrono the deviation between rounds, and have some fun. Doing this I have wound up with a pound or two of powder I didnt particularly like. I just chalked it up to learning. I now have loads that I can trust for all my rifles. I have settled to 3 powders and 2 primers now. You will be surprised how accurate of a load you can make after a little range time learning. If you have the time its a very rewarding hobby.

Ken

[Col. Mortimer 11]

How do you learn what particular type of powder you like?

 

Do they advertise burning differently (hotter v faster), or is it just from personal experience?

 

There are powders that are best suited for various calibers depending on their characteristic. 9mm and 40S&W are high pressure rounds and medium powders work well (i.e Power Pistol, WSF, 231, Titegroup and Silhouette) but they tend to product more felt recoil. Fast powders in these calibers, tend to be at the maximum load and leave little room for errors (WST, VV N320, Clays). Not recommended for beginners. Heavy bullets such as 180g in 40S&W also decrease the margin for error. However, experienced reloaders shoot tens of thousands of these safely.

 

45ACP is a lower pressure round and fast powders work best here (i.e. Bullseye, Solo 1000, WST, Clays, and VV N310). However, they fill less of the case and it is more difficult to visually detect a double charge.

 

The burn charts are approximate and conflict with each other. They can give you some ideas for powder you may wish to try.

 

Check your manuals, double check with the manufacturer's website and start with minmum loads and carefully work up.

[Candide 0]

I'd consider titegroup a fast burning powder.

[Col. Mortimer 11]

I'd consider titegroup a fast burning powder.

 

It's faster than the others but it can be used in 40S&W with loads verified manuals so I consider it suitable for a new reloader.

[ronhonda 86]

Many substitute titegroup for N320.

I have loaded 9mm and 40s&w with it.

[JackDaWack 2,895]

I use titegroup, primarily because i load 9mm and .45 plated bullets. AND surprisingly you use almost the same amount of powder for each cartridge. It can be a PITA to find load data for it depending on the bullets you use.

 

I dont crimp either of these cartridges in reality. I just crimp down the lip created for boolit seating. I load up a few and cycle them through each of my handguns to make sure they cycle with minimum crimp. I also check OAL at this point to make sure i'm getting the bullet seated as safely possible to the lands, which is a pita if your using multiple guns for your reloads. It's much more important with rifles then handguns, but i do it anyway.

 

Depending on your method of madness will determine how you achieve your selective load. Remember when testing something, always change one variable at a time. I loaded 20 cartiges, with varying amounts of powder, starting low, working up. bring them to range and I focus on accuracy primarily, and check for signs of unburnt powder and case stressing.

 

 

The issue with titegroup, it has a small margin of error, so make sure you really work up your load, start low, work in small increments, and make sure your throwing consistent amounts of powder. an extra grain of powder wont be disaterous from what would be a safe load, but it will change the ballistic properties a decent amount compared to other powders. One might think they will get more FPS by using more powder, and with titegroup sometime you gaind a couple fps, but the pressure actually jumps a significant amount..

[KpdPipes 388]

I use titegroup, primarily because i load 9mm and .45 plated bullets. AND surprisingly you use almost the same amount of powder for each cartridge. It can be a PITA to find load data for it depending on the bullets you use.

 

I dont crimp either of these cartridges in reality. I just crimp down the lip created for boolit seating. I load up a few and cycle them through each of my handguns to make sure they cycle with minimum crimp. I also check OAL at this point to make sure i'm getting the bullet seated as safely possible to the lands, which is a pita if your using multiple guns for your reloads. It's much more important with rifles then handguns, but i do it anyway.

 

Depending on your method of madness will determine how you achieve your selective load. Remember when testing something, always change one variable at a time. I loaded 20 cartiges, with varying amounts of powder, starting low, working up. bring them to range and I focus on accuracy primarily, and check for signs of unburnt powder and case stressing.

 

 

The issue with titegroup, it has a small margin of error, so make sure you really work up your load, start low, work in small increments, and make sure your throwing consistent amounts of powder. an extra grain of powder wont be disaterous from what would be a safe load, but it will change the ballistic properties a decent amount compared to other powders. One might think they will get more FPS by using more powder, and with titegroup sometime you gaind a couple fps, but the pressure actually jumps a significant amount..

 

This... For example, I'm working up a titegroup load now for my .45 with Hornady XTP bullets. I looked at the load data for my bullet weight, found my target velocity, and did 3 groups of 10 rounds .2gr below and over that velocity. Now When I go to the range, i'm going to shoot 5 rounds for group size off of a rest, and 5 rounds through the Chronograph, and see if they are doing what i'm looking for. if so, then I can continue from there. if not, then I need to tweak a little more. I'm waiting for components now for .44Mag for an old Ruger Carbine that i just got done rebuilding, and I'll have to go through the same process with that.