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gun cleaning kit?

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New guy here, bought my Ruger SR22 last week, took it to the range today, put about 100 rounds through it, it was perfect (those pieces of paper didn't stand a chance!)

My next move is to get the right stuff to always keep my gun clean...

I've read a few different things regarding gun cleaning, some say to go a few hundred rounds (especially with a new gun) and then clean it so that it breaks in better and others say to clean it after every range trip.

Ok well what do you guys think? And what am I looking for as far as cleaning my pistol? Should I buy a kit or buy things separately because they're better quality?

Thanks in advance

RxB

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IMHO get an Otis Pistil cleaning kit. It will grow as your collection grows. Don't use the CLP that comes with it. CLP is great if you are in the Army and need Cleaner Lubricant and Preservative in one so you don't have to carry three bottles. Buy a tube of Militec or Gun Butter as your lube and you'll be good.

 

Get a pack of q-tips and a cheap dental pic from CVS and you are in business.

 

Did the SR-22 come with a bore punch? If it did, then all you really need are q-tips, a rag, a dental pic (or paperclip) and lube.

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I've included a post below I wrote on the Walther Forum (http://www.waltherfo...icants-etc.html)

 

I do clean after (almost) every range trip, a typical range trip will including 200-400 rounds. The only exception is typically if I've shot < 100 rounds and am shooting again within the next 24-48 hours.

 

This level of cleaning is definitely NOT required - it is just my preference and I find it somewhat therapeutic to clean while listening to music. For centerfire you can go several thousand rounds without cleaning - for .22LR it is typically more like several hundred but does depend on firearm and ammunition being used.

 

I would suggest building up your cleaning supplies gradually - just start of with something like:

  • Nitrile Gloves
  • CLP
  • Gun Oil
  • .22 bore snake
  • .22 cleaning patches
  • .22 rod for pushing patches

Will be enough to get you going

 

hth

 

TheWombat

 

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As someone asked me how I go about cleaning my PPQ I thought I'd type it up and post it here as well. The below is what works well for me and I prefer to run firearms, even Glocks, fairly 'wet' which some people will not agree with.

 

Note: I wear Nitrile gloves while undertaking the below.

 

Cleaning

 

Hoppes No 9 Solvent (do not breathe this in! I use a little pipette/dropper to take some out of the container and then close the container.)****

Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner

Hoppers Elite Copper Terminator

BreakFreeCLP

 

****Note: the Walther manual states to not use Ammonia based cleaning products. Hoppes No 9 is ammonia based. There have been examples of people leaving No 9 on their firearms for several hours or longer and having the blueing on the firearm being stripped. A quick Google shows competing viewpoints on the use of Hoppes No 9 solvent. Personally I just use No 9 on the inside of my barrel and I do not leave it on for extended periods of time and I do not use it on the frame or the slide.

  1. I remove the magazine and safety check the firearm.
  2. I first wipe down the outside of the firearm with a thin cloth/towel including the sights.
  3. I then field strip and place the parts on paper towel/kitchen roll.
  4. I clean the outside of the barrel with dry cleaning patches to remove the grease/debris
  5. I squirt some Gun Cleaner inside the barrel and put it aside for 5+ minutes
  6. I clean the inside of the frame, slide and recoil spring with just cleaning patches (no cleaner on them) to get rid of the worst of the old grease and other debris including in the magazine well, wherever possible ensure you a push debris out of the firearm rather than towards the trigger/striker assemblies, e.g. Clean the magazine well from the top of the firearm downwards.
  7. I then put BreakFree CLP on cleaning patches and re-clean the frame, slide and recoil spring, also using a nylon and brass brush as required. I carefully clean around the firing pin and extractor.
  8. I then run a cleaning patch through the barrel.
  9. I then spray some Gun Cleaner on my Hoppes Bore Snake and run it through the barrel.
  10. I clean the muzzle and feed ramp to remove any debris using nylon brush and cleaning patches with CLP.
  11. Depending on how many rounds I have fired and how thorough the last clean was I will then also:
  12. Put some Copper Terminator on a brush and run it through the inside of the barrel, followed by running a couple of cleaning patches
  13. Put some no. 9 Cleaning Solvent on a cleaning patch and run it through the inside of the barrel
  14. Finally run dry cleaning patches through the barrel until they come out clean
  15. I then use compressed air in a can to blow out any final debris from around trigger, magazine well, striker assembly and springs

 

Lubrication

 

BreakFree CLP

Slide-Glide Lite

Shooter's Choice All Weather Grease (comes in a syringe)

Hoppes Lubricating Oil (comes in a small container with a needle applicator)

 

Before putting the PPQ back together:

  1. I apply a thin film of CLP to the inside of the slide/frame using a cleaning patch.
  2. I apply some CLP to the recoil spring using a cleaning patch.
  3. I apply a thin amount of Shooter's Choice along the inside rails of the slide.
  4. I apply a little oil or CLP on a cleaning patch and run it through the interior of the barrel followed by a dry cleaning patch. The aim should be to have a very thin coating on the inside of the barrel.
  5. I apply some Slide-Glide along the length of the outside of the barrel (where it is circular in cross section)
  6. I put the barrel and recoil spring back together into the slide
  7. I apply a thin amount of Slide-Glide along the length of the bottom of the rails of the slide
  8. I apply a thin amount of Shooter's Choice to the 4 slide rails on the frame
  9. I apply a thin amount of Slide-Glide along the upper surface of the frame where the Slide will run
  10. I use a little bit of Lubricating Oil in the trigger assembly and other springs
  11. If there is anywhere shiny that indicates metal-metal contact/wear it gets a little bit of Slide-Glide or Oil.
  12. I put the frame and slide back together and rack the slide 10-15 times before cleaning of any excess grease. Note that if you have much excess grease it means you applied too much, so next time use less!
  13. I then wipe down the outside of the firearm with a little CLP on a patch before using a Silicon Impregnated cloth for the final wipe.

 

For magazines I will either just wipe down the outside with a little CLP or I will take them apart and use dry cleaning patches on the inside and a little CLP on the outside. I don't use CLP on the inside (usually) to ensure that the rounds do not get 'gummed up'. If I do use a cleaner, e.g. On a more thorough clean at each 1000 round count, then I ensure I thoroughly dry the interior of the magazine.

 

The above is based on memory so apologies if I missed anything. The above is also based on me using the PPQ on a weekly basis and I strip and clean after every session. I typically carry my PPQ either IWB without the light or OWB with the light. If carrying then do ensure that excess lubricant/grease/oil is removed so your clothing is not soiled. If the firearm is being stored for an elongated length of time then you may need to adjust the above.

 

The PPQ doesn't actually need this level of cleaning and can go several thousand rounds without issue. I personally find cleaning therapeutic with music playing in the background.

 

When my current syringe of Shooter's Choice runs out I will try using Lubriplate 105 in the syringe instead to see how well it works. I don't need to use so many different products however as I have them I've decided to use them. Using just CLP and either Slide-Glide or Shooter's Choice is probably more than sufficient for cleaning and lubricating unless the PPQ is very dirty.

 

The PPQ can be run much dryer than the above, however the above is my personal preference and approach. The above takes me 20-30 minutes to do and after 3000 rounds I have not had failures or issues with the PPQ.

 

hth

 

TheWombat

 

--------------------------------------------------------------

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My 0.02

 

I would recommend against a kit. You'll wind up with a lot of stuff you don't need.

 

Get the pieces you need when you need them.

 

Needs:

A good cleaning rod, (I prefer brass)

.22 brass slotted tip for running patches through the bore

.22 Brass or nylon bore brush

.22 jag for final bore wipe down

Brass or nylon brush for cleaning the action.

Cotton patches.

A cleaning solvent (I prefer MPRO-7 cleans great no strong smell)

Lubricant for after cleaning (use what the manual says to use, they designed it they know what should be used)

 

I try to clean my guns after shooting. It gives you a chance to see if anything broke or is wearing so you can get it fixed before something bad happens.

 

Have Fun.

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Slip 2000 725 cleaner

Slip 2000 EWL lube

A bore snake for each caliber you need to clean

A box of q-tips

An old Tshirt

An old toothbrush

 

That is all you need to clean any firearm.

 

Avoid CLP as it does neither C, L, or P particularly well.

 

Avoid Militec as it is a pain to apply properly and doesn't work very well compared to the Slip 2000.

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