Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 In looking to get the ribbing removed off my super mag and would prefer to go local. Patrick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brocglock23 4 Posted November 25, 2012 where ya from? that will help determine local. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 Warren twsp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted November 25, 2012 I've never heard of anyone doing this.That rib is brazed or induction welded on. The effort to heat and remove the posts, then refinish the barrel may exceed the cost of new. You are better off selling the barrel to finance a new one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 Plenty of people on other forums have posted about doing it. There's a shop that has a great reputation and charges $40 to remove the ribbing and refinish or cut the barrel and refinish but requires me shipping it out and paying for it. If I could save on that it's more I can put into the gun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brocglock23 4 Posted November 25, 2012 If you don't mind driving an hour and half you can try Ed's Gun Shop in Deptford, NJ (exit 3 off the Turnpike). Sorry but being down in South Jersey I'm not that helpful to ya. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted November 25, 2012 Plenty of people on other forums have posted about doing it. There's a shop that has a great reputation and charges $40 to remove the ribbing and refinish or cut the barrel and refinish but requires me shipping it out and paying for it. If I could save on that it's more I can put into the gun I would cut the barrel, but leave the rib on in its new shortened form. The rib adds weight and strength to the barrel and offers a sighting plane that folks prefer. All that can't be such a bad thing. JMHO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 I don't really need it since I'm not going to hunt or do clay competitions. Having it limits many of the accessories I'm looking at getting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 And I don't want the barrel shortened just the rib removed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted November 25, 2012 Knowing what things cost today, I have doubts you will get a professional job for $40. But occasionally I've been proven wrong. I wish you luck in your build. (Build on a vent-rib shotgun for 3-gun competition) http://rifleshooter....gun-conversion/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lunker 274 Posted November 25, 2012 Since you are looking for some sort of tactical shotgun, why not sell the one you have now and buy a used Mossberg for $200 rather than hacking apart your current gun. Gun stores and auction sites are full of cheap, barely used tacticool abominations because most folks put together guns they think look badass, then barely use them since they're not for hunting or clays, or anything else of use (besides looking cool and fighting zombies). You will have gotten a gun inexpensively, and then can get your money back when you sell it to someone else after finding it to be as useless as its prior owner did. After more experience with a shotgun, you may find that the gun you can shoot well enough to hit 20 out of 25 fast-moving small clay targets could be the one you feel confident enough with to save your life. Personally, I would feel better about that gun than the one I take out four or five times a year to blow shitt up. I started the tactical route years ago and have arrived at a different destination. My home defense gun is a bone stock Remington 870 police (basically a Wingmaster with an anodized finish, a short barrel, and a fixed IC choke). And I wish it had the rib you are dying to remove. The elevated sight plane from a rib gives you much better peripheral sight picture than staring down a barrel. YMMV. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 I got this gun for 200 so I think ill stick with it... I want to keep the original barrel because I want the length and the 3.5in she'll capability Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 25, 2012 This will be an hd gun as well as the occasional clay buster so the better I can make it FOR ME the better I also plan on putting a set of magpul mbus on here because in used to the ar platform and sight picture Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted November 26, 2012 I don't get the fascination of the 3.5" shell, but I do understand why duck & goose hunters asked for it and why it was developed. But it's not a 10 ga., which is what it tries to be. 3.5" shells for HD? Yipes! If you pick and use as an example the data of factory Remington 00 buck shotshells, and use a constant of 7.5 lbs. as the weight for a compact 870 shotgun, here are some numbers to consider comparing various loads from 2.75" up to 3.5". Note how the recoil energy goes up as velocity decreases. (I plugged in the values in a recoil calculator to get these. And, as gun weight goes up, recoil energy will decrease.) Yes, the payload is bigger with the 3.5" shells and there are more pellets, and striking energy increases with each additional pellet, but I personally would pick a load that offers a balance of velocity AND payload, while always paying attention to recoil. It would also be imperative to pick the one that patterns best. Some people think bigger is better. I don't espouse to that theory all the time. Why would you want to be whacked with the energy equivalent of a 458 Win. Mag. firing the 3.5" shell? (They are fun, but the novelty wears off quickly.) 2.75" - 9 pellet @ 1325 fps (482 grs) 1 oz. - 25.3 ft. lbs. of recoil energy 2.75" - 12 pellet @ 1290 fps (648 grs) 1 1/2 oz. - 39.9 ft. lbs. of recoil energy 3" - 15 pellets @ 1225 fps (810 grs) 1 3/4 oz. - 53.4 ft. lbs. of recoil energy 3.5"- 18 pellets @ 1125 fps (972 grs) 2 1/4 oz. - 64.7 ft. lbs. of recoil energy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted November 26, 2012 I got this gun for 200 so I think ill stick with it... I want to keep the original barrel because I want the length and the 3.5in she'll capability Dude, 3 1/2 chamber is not needed. And it makes the action long to cycle. 3 inch chamber is perfect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RecessedFilter 222 Posted November 26, 2012 I'm still unsure as to why you can't sell it and use the money for a non-ribbed barrel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted November 26, 2012 I'm still unsure as to why you can't sell it and use the money for a non-ribbed barrel? Because it's his and he wants to F it up his own way?? Some one 30 yrs from now will cursing him while surfing on fleabay for an intact barrel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted November 26, 2012 Why would you want to be whacked with the energy equivalent of a 458 Win. Mag. firing the 3.5" shell? (They are fun, but the novelty wears off quickly.) I use 3.5" 00 buck in an 870 super mag as a thick cover hunting round, and IMO with a coat on, the recoil feels far less than a slug out of my H&R. Even if the two were equal(assuming one can handle it), those extra pellets are worth the added punch IMO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Parker 213 Posted November 26, 2012 I use 3.5" 00 buck in an 870 super mag as a thick cover hunting round, and IMO with a coat on, the recoil feels far less than a slug out of my H&R. Even if the two were equal(assuming one can handle it), those extra pellets are worth the added punch IMO. In deer hunting with buckshot, or goose hunting to throw steel shot, or turkey hunting where folks need lots of pellets for denser patterns at distance, it's a bit different for those applications; and I say use what's best for the task at hand. In a LE situation, no one is using 3.5" shells. The 9-00 buck load has been the standard for years. I think if 3.5" shells are used for a HD situation, the buttstock should be labeled with a sign that says; "hold on!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted November 26, 2012 In deer hunting with buckshot, or goose hunting to throw steel shot, or turkey hunting where folks need lots of pellets for denser patterns at distance, it's a bit different for those applications; and I say use what's best for the task at hand. In a LE situation, no one is using 3.5" shells. The 9-00 buck load has been the standard for years. I think if 3.5" shells are used for a HD situation, the buttstock should be labeled with a sign that says; "hold on!" Haha! I would agree with you on that. Although, for HD I think the Federal 8 pellet w/ flite control would be best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 26, 2012 Either way it's my barrel so does anyone know a shop or am I just going to get everyone else's opinions Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted November 26, 2012 Just use a pipe cutter man, take a band saw to the rib first though. File it down and your set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Socom 19 Posted November 26, 2012 A pipe cutter is going to knurl the I side of the barrel inward so it will be smaller the actual bore diameter not a wise choice to pipe cut, band saw or hack saw! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted November 26, 2012 A pipe cutter is going to knurl the I side of the barrel inward so it will be smaller the actual bore diameter not a wise choice to pipe cut, band saw or hack saw! wrong, I did mine that way and it came out perfect. Just gotta file the inside burrs out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJKen 23 Posted November 29, 2012 You guys gotta take it easy on lowslowmiata. Its his shotgun to do with as he pleases. I asked all the guys I deal with and nobody wants to cut the rib off. At this point maybe you should do it yourself. I would imagine that it could be done with a dremel and some patience. Once you get it off there are a lot of shops that will refinish it. As long as you dont cut too much off the shop that refinishes it can clean it up. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted November 29, 2012 Thanks ken I might just try to trade this barrel for a 20in and some cash to fund other purchases Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted December 1, 2012 Thanks ken I might just try to trade this barrel for a 20in and some cash to fund other purchases Golf Clap!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites