free float rail suggestions

[pbkid6974 1]

so i was lucky enough to snag a bcm upper receiver group this morning after months of waiting for one of the 2 models i wanted to become available. now i need a rail system. who makes some good one for a mid length gas system? im thinking about a 9 or 10 in system.

[Lalo 13]

Fortis REV

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3366

 

DD Omega

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1117

 

Midwest Industries

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=422

 

Centurion

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2509

 

 

[JackDaWack 2,895]

I have the DD 10" lite, and it's great with a mid + lowpro GB. The GB sticks out like 1/2" which makes the rail barrel gap look the best IMO. only one issue... its is $$$$! i can put up a pic if you would like.

 

Does it need to be a 2pc? or is the upper non-compliant ?

[Zerosignal 1]

Depends what your needs are you want a quad rail or a tube style? Do you want to leave factory barrel nut on? Also what length barrel 16?

[dman2112 6]

I have the Midwest Industries light weight. I really like it. Proprietary barrel nut but its rock solid

[lexcruiser 12]

Just finished a build using a Troy VTAC Alpha free float rail. Lovin' it..!

[pbkid6974 1]

I have the DD 10" lite, and it's great with a mid + lowpro GB. The GB sticks out like 1/2" which makes the rail barrel gap look the best IMO. only one issue... its is $$$$! i can put up a pic if you would like.

 

Does it need to be a 2pc? or is the upper non-compliant ?

it has a a2 front sight that i will turn into a low profile gas block with the help of an angle grinder and a dremel, so no need for a 2 piece. gotta love that afro-engineering. i guess maybe now that i think about it i should go for 11-12 in to hide the custom work on the gas block...

 

Depends what your needs are you want a quad rail or a tube style? Do you want to leave factory barrel nut on? Also what length barrel 16?

its a 14.5 with a break pinned and welded so its 16 technically. barrel nut doesn't, matter try to keep it around $250-300. prefer quad opens up more options for lights and accessories.

 

 

edit: i will be taking the grinder to it anyway to get rid of the bayo lug so i dont want to hear about messing up a perfectly good sight.

[Zerosignal 1]

it has a a2 front sight that i will turn into a low profile gas block with the help of an angle grinder and a dremel, so no need for a 2 piece. gotta love that afro-engineering. i guess maybe now that i think about it i should go for 11-12 in to hide the custom work on the gas block...

 

 

its a 14.5 with a break pinned and welded so its 16 technically. barrel nut doesn't, matter try to keep it around $250-300. prefer quad opens up more options for lights and accessories.

 

 

edit: i will be taking the grinder to it anyway to get rid of the bayo lug so i dont want to hear about messing up a perfectly good sight.

It will matter if you ordered with a pinned muzzle brake already on because front sight is not coming off and either is your barrel nut then

[Zerosignal 1]

I have a 14.5 BCM I got with the battlecomp. Shaved front sight and installed a 13" alpha rail.

[pbkid6974 1]

guess i need the stock barrel nut then...

[Zerosignal 1]

If I didn't go for the Troy alpha rail I would of picked the centurion rail.

[Lalo 13]

You and I are on the same boat. A2 front site, comp already pinned and welded so it can't be removed to be ground down. You're going to have to grind the sight down while its still mounted so you'll have to be real careful. You'll have to use a Dremel to cut the delta ring, spring and retaining ring. All that looks and sounds easy, there are plenty of videos on YouTube on it. Since you can't remove the FSB, you're not going to be able to remove the barrel nut to replace with a proprietary one that works with a rail. You'll need a one piece free float rail that uses the stock barrel nut to mount.

 

Right now,I'm leaning towards the Troy Battle Rail

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3194

 

Or the Troy Alpha Rail

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=103591

http://troyind.com/%20/rail-systemsaccessories/rails/ar15m16-rails/free-float-rails/troy-alpha-rail®-13″-no-sight

 

[Zerosignal 1]

FYI BCM taper pins can b a **** to get out too..

[pbkid6974 1]

Arent the taper pins what hold on the fsb? I dont plan on removing it at all. Just cutting it down to size

[mag1 0]

Just finished a build using a Troy VTAC Alpha free float rail. Lovin' it..!

 

I agree

[Zerosignal 1]

Arent the taper pins what hold on the fsb? I dont plan on removing it at all. Just cutting it down to size

You need to loosen fsb to remove front handguard cap.

[Nikos 31]

I'm going to give another nod for the Troy BattleRail Alpha. It's a nice design which firmly secures to the existing barrel nut (need to remove delta ring first) and you can position the detachable rails where they're needed. I'm no longer a fan of quad rails since I now prefer the smooth profile the guard.

 

The Samson evolution is another similarly designed guard which is also a quality unit.

 

 

[Nikos 31]

Arent the taper pins what hold on the fsb? I dont plan on removing it at all. Just cutting it down to size

 

I prefer to remove the FSB when I neuter it. One slip with the grinder and you can gouge the barrel.

 

If you plan on removing it, support the upper on blocks and just drive out the gas tube pin and the two taper pins first. Clear the gas tube and tap the FSB loose with a soft mallet and pull it off the barrel.

[Lalo 13]

If the break is permanently pinned and welded (like all of ours should be in NJ), you wont be able to slide off the FSB. You can get away with removing the handguard cap by just slicing one end of it then bending it out. Have to have a steady hand with the dremel though.

[Lalo 13]

Can anyone post pics of their Alpha rail installs and note the size you have? I'm torn between a 11" or a 13".

[Zerosignal 1]

My 13 alpha on a 14.5 BCM upper with 1.5 Battlecomp. I chose the 13 to get the best foward grip.

 

[Nikos 31]

If the break is permanently pinned and welded (like all of ours should be in NJ), you wont be able to slide off the FSB. You can get away with removing the handguard cap by just slicing one end of it then bending it out. Have to have a steady hand with the dremel though.

 

You're correct. I saw the pic above of the FSB with the bayo lug and thought it was the OP's -- Just noticed his other post that he has the pinned/welded brake.

[Zerosignal 1]

If the break is permanently pinned and welded (like all of ours should be in NJ), you wont be able to slide off the FSB. You can get away with removing the handguard cap by just slicing one end of it then bending it out. Have to have a steady hand with the dremel though.

I couldn't remove my handguard cap with out removing fsb( actually just slid foward)cap was tight as $hit against fsb

[Lalo 13]

Just throwing a pic I found of a 13" Troy Alpha.

 

[mag1 0]

Both are Troys 11" rails. Bottom is 14.5 and top is 16" barrel.

One is a Vtac, and other with built in sight is an Alpha.

 

[Lalo 13]

Hmmm... leaning more towards the 13'

 

[Alex V 99]

my vote would be Troy if you want a smooth rail and Centurion Arms if you want a Quad rail.

 

Don't have the Centurian but I have a Troy 11" on my Wife's AR and its an awesome light weight rail which makes a thumb over bore grip a snap with its small profile.

 

Though I have a 13.2" LaRue rail on my 18" AR I honestly cant see the need for a quad-rail anymore. The tube style rails out now have so many mounting options for the 3/6/9 o'clock positions that there really is no reason to have the added weight of the addtional rails anymore.

 

Love the rail on my PredatAR

[shooter28 153]

LaRue!

[Lalo 13]

I tell ya, doing this wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought. I tried cutting the handguard cap without removing the FSB ad I was starting to get really close to the barrel so I decided to unpin it and slide it back so I'd have enough clearance. Punching out the tappered pins was a little tough, but the key is to use a bigger/thicker punch to start moving them through while using a heavy hammer. Once they're started, you can use the correct sized punch to push them all the way through. The pin that secures the gas tube came out very easily. Then I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and grinding wheel for the rest of the job. The delta ring, spring and clip also came out rather easily. Here's a pic of the results. (not done yet)

 

 

No I just have to re-assemble the gas block, re-pin it and then wait for the rail. BTW, can anyone that has a Troy Alpha rail measure the inside opening of the rail for me? I think I should have enough clearance but I wasn't able to find those dimensions anywhere.

[Zerosignal 1]

Looks Like you have more than enough clearance for a troy rail. I made the mistake of not rounding off the bottom edges and it was rubbing. So I had to go back and trim again after I already finished blackening back up and all..