Jump to content
SgtToadette

Keymod Rail Panels

Recommended Posts

But isn't that the advantage of keymod. What if your top rail is already used.

 

Then I add rail bits where I need them. I'm not sure what the confusion is. Take a look at a Troy Alpha rail. See those big holes? They have rail panels that fit in to those and attach to the tube. You can add bits of rail where you want them. If you really want you can make it a quad rail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While that would work, it still doesn't attach to the tube rail

 

Like I said, there are many options. Where to put the light, what kind of switch (momentary, tape switch, click-on/click-off), what other items need to go on the rifle, what could interfere with what, what is my hand position on the tube, etc....

 

Once you answer these, you can start looking at mounts to work for what you want.

 

Currently on my rifles I like the light between 10:00 and 11:30 (FSB being 12:00)

 

If I was limited to using the slots on the tube to mount, I would probably use something from IWC, like their Mount-N-Slot version of the TH Thorn Tail - http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/radial-universal-light-mount-n-slot-for-handheld-lights/

 

I currently don't have any tube style handguards on any of my rifles - although I am looking at putting one of Troy's offerings (the Alpha or maybe the Delta with the cutout for the FSB) on one of them. On 3 of my rifles with MOE handguards I use the MOE Scout Mount Left - all these carbines have mounted is a light and vert grip, so the MOE gets it done for now. On my 3 railed rifles I have a LaRue LT606 mounted at 12:00 with the light to the left of the mount on one, a VTAC mount at 12:00 with the light to the left on another, and a VTAC mount at 9:00 with the light above on my S&W M&P15-22. All options put the lights in very close to the same position and all rifles have a vertical grip that I use as a handstop in the "half-retarded" grip as a reference point to place my hand right where I want it to run the switches (I prefer click-on/click-off or "clicky" switches).

 

I attach a light with a VTAC mount strapped to the top rail, because my tube still has a top rail.

 

Also HE, damn you all to hell, I now REALLY want one of those fusion mounts :)

They make some nice stuff :) Their milled Glock slides with the ATOM mount are nice too... And..... You should see the lever gun stuff they are messing with now - a light mount for a SF Scout light and a sidesaddle type ammo carrier for a Levergun. Damn sexy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didn't realize iwc had that type of stuff. Seems to be less of an advantage of keymod now but I do think as the year goes on it will get more popular and supported. I like mine but I have a dislike for quad rails for the most part. I probably would have considered the Troy vtac or even the geissele rail had keymod not been available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The BCM KMR looks like a homerun on paper.  I was wondering when someone would change the conversation from aluminum to AlMg with handguards the way it was done with Mag Tactical and lower receivers.  Too bad I don't deal in more BCM stuff since they're extremely selective of who can carry their full line.  I hope RSR is able to pick up the rail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what products mount directly to tube that doesn't get mounted to a picatinny first? I'm not familiar with the tube rails all that much

All the impact product line. Which also happens to make up the majority of the items that connect directly to keymod without putting picatinny rail in between. There are a number of third party rail segment makers for both tube mount and keymod. Keymod had a handful of people making sling adapters that are direct mount that tube mount doesn't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...