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How much can I expect to pay for a muzzle break?

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This article won't answer the cost question but it may help with what works. This is a two part article by Pat Kelly on muzzle brakes and comps, its a good read. I am looking at getting one of the Rolling Thunder breaks and it's $99.

 

http://www.multigunmedia.com/pk-compensation.pdf

 

http://www.multigunmedia.com/ar15-comps-pt-2.pdf

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Muzzle breaks can vary in price from 20 bucks to a couple hundred depending upon

mfg., material, and caliber.

 

That being said, a more expensive break would be of more value on a larger cal. rifle.

but on a .22 or even a .223 there is little muzzle jump to begin with so the value

is more in the asthetic "look" of the break than the performance - jmo

 

What type / size rifle are you looking to install it on.....????

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That being said, a more expensive break would be of more value on a larger cal. rifle.

but on a .22 or even a .223 there is little muzzle jump to begin with so the value

is more in the asthetic "look" of the break than the performance - jmo

 

 

 

You should try shooting a AR with a quality BRAKE, it makes a big difference

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You should try shooting a AR with a quality BRAKE, it makes a big difference

I disagree....tried them all, literally and don't see much difference.  I actually found that some of the cheaper ones performed better than the expensive ones.  If you learn how to properly control your hold then you will see very little difference.  Much of the muzzle brake views are created by marketing professionals for obvious reasons.

 

there is a machine that you put a rifle in that exerts the same hold pressure on the front end allowing movement to gauge effectiveness and difference between higher end and lower end varied very little, not enough to say you could tell the difference without knowing (placebo effect strong here) what brake you were using.  Test was posted on arfcom, let me see if I can find it.

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It depends on what you are after in a brake. Some brakes favor reducing felt recoil, others favor reducing muzzle rise. When people talk about how the 5.56 doesnt recoil much arent considering the muzzle rise part of the equation IMO. I tend to favor brakes that favor reducing muzzle rise. In my opinion they indeed make a difference. The proof is on the paper. Do a hammer on a target with a rifle with no brake, then do it again with one that is equiped with a quality brake. Measure the distance between the two rounds. Move back and do it again. The results are measurable. All movement translates to moving the POI off target. The further away, the further off. I see a value in fast accurate follow up shots.

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I disagree....tried them all, literally and don't see much difference.  I actually found that some of the cheaper ones performed better than the expensive ones.  If you learn how to properly control your hold then you will see very little difference.  Much of the muzzle brake views are created by marketing professionals for obvious reasons.

 

there is a machine that you put a rifle in that exerts the same hold pressure on the front end allowing movement to gauge effectiveness and difference between higher end and lower end varied very little, not enough to say you could tell the difference without knowing (placebo effect strong here) what brake you were using.  Test was posted on arfcom, let me see if I can find it.

Perfect... Exactly my thoughts as well...

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If you tried them all do you have one of the Rolling Thunder comps? If so I will buy it off you. You must have put a lot of money out for comps, I will help you get some back.

yeah, I've spent way too much according to my wife.

 

my favorite comp is the older 2 port pof and griffin is outstanding too

 

I sell what I no longer keep or use unfortunately....although now I'm using parts to do 'beater' builds...lol

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what brakes have you tried?

There is a reason why competitive shooters generally use just a handful of brakes available.  Its because they work and work well.  Up close, you will barely see a difference.  Try keeping shots in a 9" pie plate with .2s splits at 50 yards and then get back to me about there being no difference

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I respectfully disagree.  A muzzle brake on a 223 is of limited value as they jump around VERY little.

 

I'll ask you the same question

Can you keep all round in a 9" pie plate at 50 yards running 5 shots a second without a brake? 

 

What kind of shooting do you do?  Is it of the bench or slow accurate shooting, any competitions?  There are many cases were a brake is not need.  But when you are shooting fast and accurately, there provide a huge benefit

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I'll ask you the same question

Can you keep all round in a 9" pie plate at 50 yards running 5 shots a second without a brake? 

 

What kind of shooting do you do?  Is it of the bench or slow accurate shooting, any competitions?  There are many cases were a brake is not need.  But when you are shooting fast and accurately, there provide a huge benefit

I shoot tactical with a long bull barrel and no brake. So that may be cheating.

 

5 shots a second?  That's beyond the cyclic rate of an M16. If you mean 1 shot a second Into a 9" plate @ 50? That's totally doable.

Now the problem is I don't own an AR without a brake.  So you can say I'm FOS.  Furnish me a crowned muzzle and I'll certainly try it and probably do it.

 

Brakes only provide an advantage to the fastest shooters.

 

Edit:  I was wrong 5 shots a second X 60 seconds is 300 rds / minute.  Which is only half of the cyclic rate of an M16.

         Still I would really like to see 5 shots/second with a semi.

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what brakes have you tried?

There is a reason why competitive shooters generally use just a handful of brakes available.  Its because they work and work well.  Up close, you will barely see a difference.  Try keeping shots in a 9" pie plate with .2s splits at 50 yards and then get back to me about there being no difference

we're talking brakes, not brakes vs un comped guns here and no, there is hardly a difference and I can double tap at 50yds with any brake because I KNOW HOW TO CONTROL my front end and trigger shot.  The brake on a 5.56 does almost nothing.  9" plate at 50yds is easy to double tap

 

those competitive shooters also get paid to use the brakes on their guns.  Ever find it funny that within 6 years, they'll change sponsors and view of their brakes after swearing each year, 'this one is definitely best, controls climb, never tried one like this before'....mind you, those brakes were around when with other sponsors.....

 

the piston set ups take a little longer to learn but once you do, same thing.......

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we're talking brakes, not brakes vs un comped guns here and no, there is hardly a difference and I can double tap at 50yds with any brake because I KNOW HOW TO CONTROL my front end and trigger shot.  The brake on a 5.56 does almost nothing.  9" plate at 50yds is easy to double tap

 

those competitive shooters also get paid to use the brakes on their guns.  Ever find it funny that within 6 years, they'll change sponsors and view of their brakes after swearing each year, 'this one is definitely best, controls climb, never tried one like this before'....mind you, those brakes were around when with other sponsors.....

 

the piston set ups take a little longer to learn but once you do, same thing.......

 

 

Thank You!  At least I don't feel like I'm pissing in the wind.

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Thank You!  At least I don't feel like I'm pissing in the wind.

amen brother....shooting is mostly in the trigger control and how you grip/hold your firearm when doing follow up shots.  Its' not in the add ons and other bs people are marketed to buy.  Learn the trigger, learn the hold and you are 95% of the way there.  And if anyone cannot double tap a steel gong at 50 yards that is 9" then they need to spend more money on ammo and practice than $150 on a brake that provides a marginal benefit

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It depends on what you are after in a brake. Some brakes favor reducing felt recoil, others favor reducing muzzle rise. When people talk about how the 5.56 doesnt recoil much arent considering the muzzle rise part of the equation IMO. I tend to favor brakes that favor reducing muzzle rise. In my opinion they indeed make a difference. The proof is on the paper. Do a hammer on a target with a rifle with no brake, then do it again with one that is equiped with a quality brake. Measure the distance between the two rounds. Move back and do it again. The results are measurable. All movement translates to moving the POI off target. The further away, the further off. I see a value in fast accurate follow up shots.

This. I had a hammer pair keyhole-ing a target with one of my comps. Sure its loud and obnoxious with side blast but it works.

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keyhole-ing ??

 

What's this? If I get bullets key hole-ing Something is wrong.

 

And what's a hammer pair?

Sorry maybe I don't know the right term. Bullet holes were close enough to touch. Hammer pair/double tap/2 shots in succession with no sight picture in between.

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So I suppose all the tests of measuring muzzle rise and recoil are all b.s.? I mean only 90% of AR's have some kind of muzzle brake on them. I personally have tried many different styles of muzzle brakes from the YHM phantom, to Surefire, to the local guy - Tech Ops T01, and I see a difference in most of them. Just because you CAN shoot a .223 without a brake, doesn't make them less effective. I personally won't ever shoot an AR without a brake again.

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So I suppose all the tests of measuring muzzle rise and recoil are all b.s.? I mean only 90% of AR's have some kind of muzzle brake on them. I personally have tried many different styles of muzzle brakes from the YHM phantom, to Surefire, to the local guy - Tech Ops T01, and I see a difference in most of them. Just because you CAN shoot a .223 without a brake, doesn't make them less effective. I personally won't ever shoot an AR without a brake again.

I believe this discussion is about muzzle brakes and not really about firearms with or without brakes. 

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