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By Sig
Hello everyone, brand new to the board so let me know if I'm in the right subforum or if I can have this better answered elsewhere. pagunforums.com anyone? lol
Can anyone recommend an FFL in Pennsylvania that will pin weld breaks, pin stocks, and also accept transfers. I live in North Jersey so anything in North PA with low FFL and gunsmithing fees are preferable. I am running into problems with a shop refusing to send complete AR 15s to NJ FFLs. Any help is appreciated.
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By SIGMan Freud
Hey all. The last time I bought handguns, the internet was in it's infancy. You learned about new handguns from magazines and catalogues and you had to shop around different dealers for stock or have them order something for out of stock items.
Fast forward to 2016 and everything imaginable is available online, including in-stock inventory. I imagine a good part of any FFL's business is transfers. So let me ask you this - if I'm looking for a particular model that is not in stock locally, is there any advantage to having the shop order directly from the manufacturer vs. buying from a big online site and just doing a transfer?
I checked with two LGS authorized dealers and was told they didn't have the gun in stock but could get the model I was looking for in a week or so, but would have to be paid in full at time of order. The online dealers have multiple quantities in stock, and obviously would require full payment before shipping to the FFL. Either way, I'm kinda buying sight-unseen, which is OK given the circumstances.
So is it six-of-one, half-dozen of another? I would like to support the local guys as much as possible (I image they make more on a direct sale with markup than with a transfer). Just curious if there's any advantage one way or the other? Thanks.
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By kwadz
I’m very confused about an incident that happened last night. A friend's mom is a FL resident while he has lived in NJ for the past 15 years. Sometime over the past 3 years, she gave him one of her shotguns. However, they did it all off paper, because he didn’t know the laws regarding interstate transfers. He does have an FID card, so he is somewhat familiar with the laws here. That being said, he wants to be in total compliance in case he needs to use it for self defense, so that he doesn’t then get charged with illegal possession.
I told him the proper procedure is to go with his mom to an FFL and perform the transfer there, with COE forms and NICS check, since his mom is out of state and cannot transfer him a long gun without going to an FFL. He called RayCo in Merchantville yesterday, since his mom is up visiting, and they told him that he doesn’t need to do it at an FFL and all they have to do is fill out a COE form. I had two blank copies already printed out from when I went to the Armory this past weekend (just in case I found something good) so he stopped down last night to get them. The section for “seller” states nothing about the seller needing to be a NJ resident. The section for “buyer” clearly states that the buyer must be a resident of NJ, otherwise the transfer needs to take place at an FFL.
Am I misinformed about the law? Can a NJ resident purchase a long gun from an out of state resident in a private transfer with just a COE form and without needing to use an FFL/NICS?
Even more concerning is that if I am right about the fact that all interstate transfers have to go through FFL/NICS, RayCo gave him the wrong information and he could get into some serious trouble, legally, because of it.
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We never let then inside. Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in -
I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield. Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe. https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html -
By silverado427 · Posted
The 12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the ZL1 was a all aluminum 12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam -
By maintenanceguy · Posted
I like my regular carry holster. OWB leather with belt slots. I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it. I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer. It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side. The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact. Anything insulating will make it worse. I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin. I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets. But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated. -
Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it.
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