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Ruger GP100 vs. S&W 686

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can't go wrong with a smith. But do get a pre lock one. You shot mine and seemed to shoot well with it. You can find one like mine for 500 or less. Also look at the s&w 585 its the same gun as the 686 but blued instead of stainless.

 

M

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GP100 all the way! Seriously. If I blindfolded you and let you hold both you wouldnt be able to tell which ones which. I think the trigger is slightly better on the S&W but you will pay a premium as of now for the S&W. Most gun shops sell them between $125-$200 more over the Ruger. People are going S&W 686 crazy right now. Come by on the next Bullethole Tuesday night meet (hopefully I can make it) and I'll gladly let you shoot my GP100. I have shot both and cant really tell a difference. The one plus the Ruger has is NO internal lock for what its worth. I have heard of lock failure but never experienced it myself as I dont own the S&W.

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I did not know that anyone at the meet-up owned a Ruger. It seems that every gun imaginables is covered at the BA meet-ups. If I can make the next meet, I will definitely take you up on your offer lrizzo. What is up with the locks on the newer 686's? Have they actually locked up many pistols? It seems that the gunshops do not stock Rugers as much as S&W's. Does anyone know where Ruger revolvers are being sold?

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I got mine at BA in February 2009. I like it a lot. I bring it to the BA meets. That is when I get time to show up... When the post goes up in the events and meetups thread, post that you'll be there and want to try both. Be careful though, you'll end up wanting waaaaay more than just one revolver. When I first started going last year, I thought I would be content with my two handguns.... Now I am up to 5 handguns and three rifles. We all have the sickness...

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If I were buying one of these models from the last 20 years, a Ruger all the way.

If you are willing to look a little further back at used guns. The N frame Model 28-2 (aka Highway patrolman) is the my favorite factory 357 revolver ever made. The N frame is the same one used on S&W's 44 mag revolvers. It will handle the hottest ammo with ease. If I could only hold on to one of my handguns, this would probably be the one. They can be had for $4-500 on GunBroker.

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I really want to buy new because of my inexperience. If the Rugers are as good or better than S&W's then I would rather use the money saved on ammo. I still would need to shoot a Ruger before I made any decision. The 686 I've shot a few times with 38 ammo, and I really liked it.

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I really want to buy new because of my inexperience. If the Rugers are as good or better than S&W's then I would rather use the money saved on ammo. I still would need to shoot a Ruger before I made any decision. The 686 I've shot a few times with 38 ammo, and I really liked it.

 

OK. I would try to stop by Shore Shot. I know they have a GP100 on their rental board. They used to (and may still) have a 686 there to rent too. Give them a try side-by-side. Call first to make sure. Shore Shot will only charge you for a single rental since the guns are in the same caliber.

Also, when I first started getting into guns, I felt the same way about only wanting to own new. After some experience I realized that, for guns that are not a new design (i.e. revolvers, 1911's, etc), the older ones were built with a level of quality and attention to detail lacking on today's guns. In order to get that quality in a new gun, you need to spend a lot (see S&W Performance Center). If you are buying a plastic-fantastic (i.e. Glock, XD, etc) buy it new and have the warranty that goes with it.

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can't go wrong with a smith. But do get a pre lock one. You shot mine and seemed to shoot well with it. You can find one like mine for 500 or less. Also look at the s&w 585 its the same gun as the 686 but blued instead of stainless.

 

M

 

What Matt Said!

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I did not know that anyone at the meet-up owned a Ruger. It seems that every gun imaginables is covered at the BA meet-ups. If I can make the next meet, I will definitely take you up on your offer lrizzo. What is up with the locks on the newer 686's? Have they actually locked up many pistols? It seems that the gunshops do not stock Rugers as much as S&W's. Does anyone know where Ruger revolvers are being sold?

 

Frank

 

I have a stainless GP100 with 6" barrel. It's a great revolver. I'll bring it next meet for you to try. I went through the same decision process. I really couldn't tell a difference in the trigger, but I only checked it out in the store - which isn't the same as real range time. I mainly shoot 38 SP. 357Mag is a beast!!

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Frank, your gonna have alot of guys giving you their Smiths or Rugers at the bullet hole next week! Choose wisely my son!

 

Ray ray all I gotta do is let him shoot the smith first and let him compare everything else to it. He'll end up buying the smith. In the somewhat words of Troy "god dammmnnnn that thing is accurate. (6) shots same hole, I can't even do that with my personal gun :p"

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I have tried both.... Nothing wrong with the Ruger. But the 686 trigger is worth the extra $$$$

 

Troy, have you ever come across a Smithy you didn't like? You should change your screen name to "SmithMan" or something.

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I have tried both.... Nothing wrong with the Ruger. But the 686 trigger is worth the extra $$$$

 

Troy, have you ever come across a Smithy you didn't like? You should change your screen name to "SmithMan" or something.

 

Yes....

 

I am no fan of the 22A , or the Sigma series

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Give the Ruger some trigger time and the trigger will smooth itself out nicely. Better still, take it apart (because with Rugers you don't need to be a gunsmith to do so). Then watch the YouTube video on Ruger trigger jobs and DO IT YOURSELF! It ain't rocket science, and you will learn a lot about smithing and gun internals.

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but do get a pre lock one.

Can someone explain this? I see this come up pretty often, but don't recall every seeing an explanation. What exactly is so bad about the S&Ws with the lock?

 

Basically, the lock was a cave-in to Bill Clinton. S&W put them on their guns to avoid a legal fight from the Government. Some people have not forgiven S&W because backed down and that they never removed the lock once the threat of lawsuits was over.

On a more practical note, these locks have been documented to activate themselves occasionally. And they aren't easily turned off either when they get accidentally activated. It took Andy at Shore Shot 15 minutes to get mine unstuck when it activated suddenly without warning. Imagine if it were your self-defense gun and it became locked like that. Now you are carrying a paperweight, at best a bludgeon.

To be fair to S&W, many companies now put locks on their revolvers (Taurus, Ruger Single-actions). But S&W is the only one that has many documented cases of lock failures. It is most pronounced in the lighter guns that shoot heavy loads (i.e. airweight snubby 357s), but it happened on my hefty stainless 629 44mag.

There are S&W defenders that will say they have put XXX number of rounds through their gun with no failures. You just have to decide if you want to take that chance. The lock can be removed, but why should you have to buy a gun that has a feature you need to remove? That is why I prefer the Rugers these days.

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I definitely do not like the lock now that I know more about it. I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to make it to the meet next week. If anyone with a GP100 is going to be at Bullet Hole during the mornings or early afternoons please let me know.

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Thanks Lunker! I def see why pre-locks are favored now. Kind of a shame really - somewhat limits my choices if I ever choose to buy a S&W revolver.

 

When it comes to revolvers, I think the older S&W are some of the best ever made. The Colts are classic but I'd be afraid to shoot full bore 357 out of a Python because there aren't many smiths qualified to work on one when you eventually shoot it loose. Pretty much any good gunsmith can work on a S&W revolver.

Take a look at Model 19's (K frame) and the bigger Model 28 (plain blued finish police/working gun) and Model 27 (fancy finish target gun) N frames. You will not regret it. The K frames are some of the nicest balanced guns ever made, perfect for target shooting with 38's and light 357. I have my trusty Model 28-2 because I want to shoot my home brewed fire-breathing 357 loads in it, and N frames are built like tanks and won't shoot loose. I stupidly sold my old Model 27-2. It was a work of art with an amazing trigger.

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I guess I know who to go to when I have S&W revolver questions ;)

 

Interestingly enough, I think my first S&W revolver is more than likely going to a be a 547 if I can find one at a decent price (and actually get off my butt to get more pistol permits). Probably not the best choice from a spare parts perspective, but I'm fascinated by them.

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I guess I know who to go to when I have S&W revolver questions ;)

 

Interestingly enough, I think my first S&W revolver is more than likely going to a be a 547 if I can find one at a decent price (and actually get off my butt to get more pistol permits). Probably not the best choice from a spare parts perspective, but I'm fascinated by them.

 

Who needs spare parts? You'll never wear out a 9mm S&W revolver.

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Have had mine at BA for the last 4 weeks now. Will bring it again also the next meet there. I mainly shoot .357 out of it because that's what it was meant to shoot....and it does shoot it well!

 

cocobolo.jpg

 

Rugerfan100

 

Where did you get that grip and what front sight are you using? It looks like a fiber optic front.

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