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Dillon 650 Setup

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Ok, I have had plenty of time to read and do a bunch of research and I am pulling the trigger on a new press. I have already started collecting miscellaneous supplies so I think I am on my way to a nice reloading setup. Now is the point where I am setting up my die configuration and was looking to see if this would be a good setup and looking for any feedback before buy any more stuff.

 

Here is my proposed setup:

 

Station 1: ECW Undersize & De-capping Die

Station 2: Dillon Power Die

Station 3: Hornady Powder Cop

Station 4: Redding Competition Seating Die

Station 5: Lee Factory Crimp Die

 

So what do you think?

 

Harry

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I think for the ultimate in safety you go for the RCBS locout die instead of the powder cop die. I have the powder cop die, and while it works, it's not much different than looking in the case. The lockout die will lock it all up so you can investigate the issue, whether it be a squib charge or a overcharge. I'm looking to pick this up myself.

 

I have heard many things about the lee factory crimp die. If you look it up on Midway is says the crimp on it is a roll crimp. You want a taper crimp on it if you use a semi auto.

 

I have the RCBS one. Works great. Most of my dies are Hornady. Gotta love the lock rings on them too.

 

Do you have a case feeder?

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I've always just used rcbs dies for my rifle and I like them a lot. I have a square deal so I have the proprietary dies by dillon and I like them a lot. Though I did use a friends 550 with dillon dies and I was extremely impressed with the finished product.

 

IMO I would buy the dillon die setup and call it a day. I look in my cases as I load to check my powder, there really is no need for a powder check die IMO

 

I would save the money on the powder die and buy the slightly more expensive dillon dies, I think you will be extremely happy.

 

PS excellent choice on the press, I'm slightly jealous

 

PSS if you have the money, you might as well order the case feeder because I give you 6 months before you order it anyway :p

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I've always just used rcbs dies for my rifle and I like them a lot. I have a square deal so I have the proprietary dies by dillon and I like them a lot. Though I did use a friends 550 with dillon dies and I was extremely impressed with the finished product.

 

IMO I would buy the dillon die setup and call it a day. I look in my cases as I load to check my powder, there really is no need for a powder check die IMO

 

I would save the money on the powder die and buy the slightly more expensive dillon dies, I think you will be extremely happy.

 

PS excellent choice on the press, I'm slightly jealous

 

PSS if you have the money, you might as well order the case feeder because I give you 6 months before you order it anyway :p

 

 

+1 You're a wise man Matt. Anyway if you use the propper powder a double charge will spill over the top or fill the case which will prevent you from loading a bullet. What do you say about that Matt?

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Agreed. I tend to use .231 which won't fill the case completely but you can instantly tell that you'll have too much.

 

If you really want to be safe you can use some trailboss, one charge will fill the case, two charges will create a mess :p

 

And yes Frank I know I'm a wise man, it's why I rock

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well I am jealous I am just rockin a single stage...... but there is a new press coming in on Friday!!!! :icon_mrgreen:

 

Eric- I used to think I would loose precision with a progressive press, but not so... Just exercise good quality control and it's better than Factory stuff.

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In that case I would make 1000 rounds without the case feeder to get the feel of the machine and the process of reloading down pat. Then add the case feeder and appreciate it 1000 times more. You dont need to fiddling around with the casefeeder while learning to reload.

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I would stick with one brand of dies. Seating and crimping in 2 steps is a good thing too. I use to reload pistol on a single stage and had no problems with Glocked brass for my wifes 40. I use RCBS dies mostly. Also, I have loaded a lot of ammo and the only time I have a bad charge is when I double charge a case while single stage reloading. I have never had a bad charge on my Square Deals.

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I have several 650's and the 1st one we got (my friend and I) had the powder check die from Dillon.

It worked fine, but it was pretty much useless to us.

The set up we run is as follows;

EGW undersize decapping die

Dillon powder die

Dillon/Redding Competition seating die

Dillon factory crimp die

Lee factory crimp die

 

We have an overhead adjustable light aiming at station 3 so we can visually look at the case.

It works for us.

My $0.02

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Having some sort of power check die as a beginner is certainly sound advise. Looking into the case each time is certainly a viable option, but as humans, we sometimes err and this isn't the place where we want to miss a potential squib/double especially during those late night reloading binders! I would suggest you substitute the RCBS lockout die for the powder cop since it will physically halt your press if you encounter a squib/double or even a significant mischarge if there is a powder measure issue. The problem with the powder cop is that it doesn't really alleviate the need to have to look at each case each time, rather, it allows a more *convenient* view of each case since you can look at the plunger indicator at eye level rather than stare into a dark shell casing underneath your press. The RCBS, on the other hand, allows you to use tactile feel to check each charge and since the entire process of loading is largely based on tactile feedback (resizing, priming, etc all have thier own tactile sensations through the press stroke). This sensation then becomes yet another indicator that you can pick up through the press rather than diverting your eyes from case loading and/or bullet loading. I have both and the RCBS die allows me to keep my visual focus on constrained on placing bullets on shells and other important tasks and lets my arm focus on the feedback of the press mechanicals. Not that you can't look at each shell, but using freeing up your eyes and offloading that task to your arm (RCBS) or your ears (dillon check die) seems to make things feel less hectic. JHMO.

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I am not sure you will need a Lee FCD if you only load FMJ and CMJ. I have loaded well over a thousand rounds without it and they all case gauged. The only use I found was for lead bullets and Winchester cases. Lead bullets and the thicker case walls of Winchester brass can cause a bulge at the base of the bullet. Almost all the cartridges that failed the case gauge did pass a barrel test (drop cartridge in barrel, invert barrel, cartridge falls out). You have to try to place the bullet as straight as possible in the case before seating the bullet. This will minimize the bulge.

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I have several 650's and the 1st one we got (my friend and I) had the powder check die from Dillon.

It worked fine, but it was pretty much useless to us.

The set up we run is as follows;

EGW undersize decapping die

Dillon powder die

Dillon/Redding Competition seating die

Dillon factory crimp die

Lee factory crimp die

 

We have an overhead adjustable light aiming at station 3 so we can visually look at the case.

It works for us.

My $0.02

 

Curious as to why you run two crimping dies. Have you mic-ed the round before and after this step? Curious to see if there is a difference in specs.

 

+1 on the overhead light. It makes a hell of a difference.

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I am not sure you will need a Lee FCD if you only load FMJ and CMJ. I have loaded well over a thousand rounds without it and they all case gauged. The only use I found was for lead bullets and Winchester cases. Lead bullets and the thicker case walls of Winchester brass can cause a bulge at the base of the bullet. Almost all the cartridges that failed the case gauge did pass a barrel test (drop cartridge in barrel, invert barrel, cartridge falls out). You have to try to place the bullet as straight as possible in the case before seating the bullet. This will minimize the bulge.

 

Yup, FMJ CMJ will be the only .40 I load, not planning on doing any just lead at this time and from what most have told me and also my buddy that had a 650 was just to use the Dillon Die's and the U die in position 1 and whatever I decide in position 3, but no matter what, never trust a mechanical devise and take the extra time to LOOK at each load as is passes.

 

Harry

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