Brass Cased or Steel Cased

[Tactical Turtle 11]

What do you guys use on your guns?? New to the ar Game ... really new. Just curious

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Used to use steel cased... I'm almost through my cheap case of 1000 brown bear .223. Switching to XM193 & XM855.

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Used to use steel cased... I'm almost through my cheap case of 1000 brown bear .223. Switching to XM193 & XM855.

 

did it run ok, no extraction issues??

[Krdshrk 3,877]

No extraction issues, however the lacquered primers caused my bolt to get a bit sticky.... That was after about 500 rounds through the gun... I didn't clean it afterwards so the next range session, occasionally the AR would double....

[Old School 611]

What do you guys use on your guns?? New to the ar Game ... really new. Just curious

 

I see you own a DD M4. Is that where you intend to use the steel cased?

 

If so, let me start crying and whining immediately....

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Im not intending anything yet, I have only put 40 rounds of brass cased through it. Just curious I wanna buy in bulk. Just asking old school, calm down its not eh end of the world lmao

[robot_hell 72]

Many people have debated over steel cases causing excess extractor wear, and lacquered cases causing stickiness of the bolt... I don't believe either, especially with most new-manufacture steel-case ammo having a polymer coating rather than lacquer.

 

My understanding is that steel does not expand as readily as brass, however, which results in a poorer gas seal of the cartridge to the chamber and crud being blown back into the action and bolt-- causing fouling of all three.

 

My experience has been that of a few stuck and/or split cases every 100 or so. I switched to brass and enjoy much better performance. [ETA: Brand was Ulyanovsk .223]

 

If you want to shoot steel, have a cleaning rod handy, otherwise your range session may end early. I've also read never to lube any cases, since it will increase bolt thrust (and cause more wear on the lugs).

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Many people have debated over steel cases causing excess extractor wear, and lacquered cases causing stickiness of the bolt... I don't believe either, especially with most new-manufacture steel-case ammo having a polymer coating rather than lacquer.

 

My understanding is that steel does not expand as readily as brass, however, which results in a poorer gas seal of the cartridge to the chamber and crud being blown back into the action and bolt-- causing fouling of all three.

 

My experience has been that of a few stuck and/or split cases every 100 or so. I switched to brass and enjoy much better performance.

 

If you want to shoot steel, have a cleaning rod handy, otherwise your range session may end early. I've also read never to lube any cases, since it will increase bolt thrust (and cause more wear on the lugs).

 

Ok thank you for the heads up, that makes sense

[Tactical Turtle 11]

No extraction issues, however the lacquered primers caused my bolt to get a bit sticky.... That was after about 500 rounds through the gun... I didn't clean it afterwards so the next range session, occasionally the AR would double....

weird, Ok so maybe Steel case isnt the best Idea

[Old School 611]

Im not intending anything yet, I have only put 40 rounds of brass cased through it. Just curious I wanna buy in bulk. Just asking old school, calm down its not eh end of the world lmao

 

Don't get attitude with me puppy....LOL

 

Do you think Stoner or any of the engineers that have subsequently redesigned the AR/M16 platform ever intended the use of Steel cased ammo? Oh, the answer is NO!

 

If the platform was ever intended for steel cased don't you think Uncle Sam would issue it?

 

The first time you get a stuck case and end up trying to "mortar" the case out, I won't be the one crying.

 

Believe me I understand the cost factor. But I love my rifles. Never abuse your rifles, your dog, or you wife.

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Don't get attitude with me puppy....LOL

 

Do you think Stoner or any of the engineers that have subsequently redesigned the AR/M16 platform ever intended the use of Steel cased ammo? Oh, the answer is NO!

 

If the platform was ever intended for steel cased don't you think Uncle Sam would issue it?

 

The first time you get a stuck case and end up trying to "mortar" the case out, I won't be the one crying.

 

Believe me I understand the cost factor. But I love my rifles. Never abuse your rifles, your dog, or you wife.

 

lol, i was only playing haha no attitude intended. Very good point sir. so brass it is, now let the shopping begin any suggestions on brand, bullet weight, bullet type?

[Old School 611]

I've also read never to lube any cases, since it will increase bolt thrust (and cause more wear on the lugs).

 

Ammo and chambers should always be lube free.

[robot_hell 72]

The first time you get a stuck case and end up trying to "mortar" the case out, I won't be the one crying.

 

Been there, done that. The butt of my AR is a bit scuffed up due to this.

 

It helps to look at the cartridge casing as a gasket, rather than just a container for the bullet, powder and primer that just needs to get in and get out.

[Tactical Turtle 11]

I just cleaned my dd m4, it was soaked in oil, even the breach face and feed ramp. Old school where should i lube, I lubed the BCG and the internal moving parts, minus the firing pin, but the rotating breach face i applied a small amount of lube as I was told bya guy at work..... I know your a AR GURU

[Old School 611]

lol, i was only playing haha no attitude intended. Very good point sir. so brass it is, now let the shopping begin any suggestions on brand, bullet weight, bullet type?

 

XM193 55gr is generally the cheaper of the mil spec ammo. You really don't need 5.56 NATO ammo you'll pay more for it.

 

Boxer primed 55gr FMJ ammo unless you intend to something real serious. Any commercial .223 Remington should take good care of you and your rifle.

 

Oh and save your brass,

[blksheep 466]

I have 500 rounds of cleaned and tumble .223 brass I will trade someone for a Glock 23, 19, 17 or 22 magazine. I have shot a mixture steel and brass out of my BM M4 type, and never had a problem.

[blksheep 466]

Remington UMC 55gr from Dicks is fine.

[Old School 611]

I just cleaned my dd m4, it was soaked in oil, even the breach face and feed ramp. Old school where should i lube, I lubed the BCG and the internal moving parts, minus the firing pin, but the rotating breach face i applied a small amount of lube as I was told bya guy at work..... I know your a AR GURU

 

 

GURU by NO MEANS! I just like machines.

 

I personally run my rifles wet. But not the chamber. I actually use a bore guide as to keep oil/sovent out of the chamber. Yes I use a chamber brush but very seldom.

 

There are loads of sources discussing AR lubrication. I'm sure somebody will chime in.

[Tactical Turtle 11]

XM193 55gr is generally the cheaper of the mil spec ammo. You really don't need 5.56 NATO ammo you'll pay more for it.

 

Boxer primed 55gr FMJ ammo unless you intend to something real serious. Any commercial .223 Remington should take good care of you and your rifle.

 

Oh and save your brass,

 

lol I dont reload, but I do save brass, at 2.10 a pound at the junk yard I have started a saving and have almost 2, 5 gallons buckets full of 22, 40, 25 and what ever else may get swept up lol

[robot_hell 72]

Don't scrap em, sell it here!

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Don't scrap em, sell it here!

lol, I dont feel like seperating them, most of them are beaten up from my gen 4 glock extractor, and 22 spent shells i grab from the cement barricades at colliers mills brass is brass lol

[KpdPipes 388]

XM193 55gr is generally the cheaper of the mil spec ammo. You really don't need 5.56 NATO ammo you'll pay more for it.

 

Boxer primed 55gr FMJ ammo unless you intend to something real serious. Any commercial .223 Remington should take good care of you and your rifle.

 

Oh and save your brass,

 

This XM193 IMo is all we every really need to play with..it works well out of both 1/9 and 1.7 barrels, and is cheaper than the XM855 stuff... I've shot steel cased out of my rifles,. never had any issues, but cleaning is somewhat of a bear since the chamber doesnt seal as well. I'll Always have a couple of Spam Cans of Herters or some other around just for "Oh Snap" moments, but mostly I shoot brass cased factory or handloads..I;ve got 1000 55 Gr Win softpoints sitting here screaming to be let back into the wild

[Tactical Turtle 11]

I bought winchester white box

[YWHIC 18]

I start every AR on BRASS usually about 200 rounds or so.. then I try Wolf WPA (mil-classic box).. if it runs then I just run that and save the 556 NATO for real issues.. lol.. I don't run Tula as its got no kick.. and doesn't always run 100% in my BCM 14 1/2" Middy.

[Tactical Turtle 11]

I start every AR on BRASS usually about 200 rounds or so.. then I try Wolf WPA (mil-classic box).. if it runs then I just run that and save the 556 NATO for real issues.. lol.. I don't run Tula as its got no kick.. and doesn't always run 100% in my BCM 14 1/2" Middy.

 

True, maybe ill try it out a box or 2 after I clean it to.see how dirty it is and such. Do I need 556 for any reason or will 223 do the job?? Like is there any difference between the 2

[YWHIC 18]

The Wolf WPA is 223 55gr and works just fine on paper.. lol..

 

If you want to run 556 NATO ammo just make sure your CHAMBER is marked for such so you don't have any issues..

 

Federal AE 223 (black box marked Tactical) works fine for most and is on Cabela's website.. sometimes on sale for < $6/box..

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Yea I'm marked for 556 but any noticeable difference between that and 223??

[Dan 177]

I use Silver or Golden Bear steel cased Russian stuff for plinking/practice. Silver has a zinc washed coating, Golden has a brass washed coating. They both act the same, just one is silver and one is brass colored. They do not use laquer so you don't have any of those issues. They only cost a tad more than the laquer stuff. They perform well, not for precision shooting, but usually fairly consistant.

 

For precision stuff, I reload my own using 69gr BTHP's for my 1:7 barrel.

[ChrisJM981 924]

Brass. I hate cleaning my rifle. I'm not into sitting there for 2 hours cleaning one gun.

[Old School 611]

I start every AR on BRASS usually about 200 rounds or so.. then I try Wolf WPA (mil-classic box).. if it runs then I just run that and save the 556 NATO for real issues.. lol.. I don't run Tula as its got no kick.. and doesn't always run 100% in my BCM 14 1/2" Middy.

 

You have an AR that kicks. Where did you get it ? Is it special...

Do you use the Tula for jam clearing drills?

 

Spend extra money for a BCM and shoot $hit ammo... Wonderful! Just Fukin' Wonderful...