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Hey guys! I made my introduction a few months back (moved from NY here to NJ (lincroft/red bank) about 2 months ago) and just went for my fingerprints so should be getting my permits and everything fairly soon. Anyway, my fiance and I just moved into our new house and I have my firearms I brought with me from NY and already know of a few that I'm planning on buying once I get my permits.

 

 

That being said, I want to keep them locked up and safe from intruders, wandering guests, kids, and fire. But this is going to be my first safe and I dont really know much about them (if there is a lot to know?) Being that we just moved into the new place I dont have a ton of cash so I'd like to stay under $1000 if i can (the lower the better!) but I have some questions..

 

Is an electronic keypad better than a combo lock? I hear of issues when batteries die. I would think getting one with an outlet strip for humidifier would be a plus. I would like to get something for 10-20 long guns and 5-10 hand gun, some sensitive paperwork and possibly ammo if it fits so probably atleast a 24 gun safe I would think. I have seen costco, tractor supply, dicks and cabelas all have them but I would appreciate any feedback from you guys! And if anyone is selling one or has any leads that would be great! I got thinking about it recently because cabelas has free shipping on certain safes right now and I have points on my cabelas card. Thanks guys! I look forward to getting settled and meeting, interacting and shooting with y'all!

 

-Rich

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You might want to check out Liberty Safe in Mount Laurel NJ they were fantasic to deal with. They are very good quality safes and they have a big range of budgets. Their showroom is located at 1215 Route 73 South Mount Laurel, NJ 08054 and their phone number is(856) 222-9904. Our salesmen Chris was great! Many other people on the forums have purchased from them as well and have good experiences. Best of all there is no tax on safes in NJ and they deliver for round $100.

 

http://www.libertysafe.com/

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As someone who is usually a cheap SOB, I urge you to spend a little more on security than you think you might need. Originally, I looked at sub $1K safes, and then I watched the videos of guys breaking into them in under 5 minutes. That's when I went to Liberty too. I didn't go with the base model, but I didn't go top of the line either. The piece of mind I have from knowing my firearms and other valuables are secure (knowing that a safe only buys you time; if a criminal has lots of time, no safe is going to keep him out forever) was worth the extra money.

 

The Cannon safes look fairly decent, but the problem is getting it into your house, unless you're installing it in the garage, then it's no big deal. Tractor Supply doesn't deliver, so you will have to factor that in. I paid Liberty $200 to deliver and install mine in my basement. Saved me from having to figure out how to move a 600 lb safe up 8 steps and then down another 13. :shok:

 

One more thing about Liberty. If you buy from them, you can usually get a rebate. Go to the website and enter the promo code "tom", for Tom Gresham, and you'll get the rebate form that you can print out. It varies based on how much you spend, but my rebate was $75, which covered just under 1/2 of my delivery.

 

Good luck!

 

ETA: If you start doing your research on home safes, you may find yourself convinced that you need a bank vault to protect your belongings and that you need to spend upwards of $20,000 to get something decent. Don't worry that much about it. Be realistic about your expectations and then you may need to save your pennies (i.e. don't buy another gun, buy a better safe) to get what you need.

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if you are like the rest here double all your numbers or one of your future posts will be should I buy a 2nd safe or is it better to sell mine and get a bigger one btw I have 2. love liberty safes you can go with plain utility finish or a piece of art worthy of putting it in the living room

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thanks guys i will definitely look into libierty.. and thanks for that video it was very informative and kinda made me realize i should have added some more info in my post. the home i am moving into now is my finances grandparents so we are living in it for the next 1-3 years possibly to save some money. that being said, i dont necessarily want to get something in the 600+ lbs range that i cant take with me when i move out.. its really something to keep the guns locked away.. i dont have any large amounts of money or anything like that so it will only really hold 4-5 firearms for now (none that are expensive maybe $3,500 worth in all) and documents like passports, bonds etc. Thats kind of why i was looking at the lower end stuff but that video definitely made me think about what i will want to get in the future.. also you guys have any reccomendations on something to keep near the bedroom in an emergency? not sure if i want to leave the shotgun in the closet or get a handgun box

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I don't care if my guns burn up in a fire. They aren't worth that much money and they are insured. So is what little jewlery we have.

 

I keep vascilating between a nice medium range 24 gun safe (like the Cannon) to an inexpensive Stack On Cabinate.

 

I really just want to keep the kids out and the ammo locked up.

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If you have a tractor supply store near you I saw a really nice winchester safe there, I think its fireproof as well. Last I was there there were two of the winchester safes and the nicer one was around $600 and had a really thick door.

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If you have a tractor supply store near you I saw a really nice winchester safe there, I think its fireproof as well. Last I was there there were two of the winchester safes and the nicer one was around $600 and had a really thick door.

 

The Winchester safe is pretty nice. The features look decent and it seems to be adequately made. The problem is that it's 570 lbs and TSC doesn't deliver/install. So you have to factor that into the purchase price... If you have 5 friends to help you for a case of beer, then maybe it's worth it. If not, then look to a safe company who will deliver.

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I don't like electronic keypads or fingerprint keypads. Batteries can die, electrical can do weird things, and fingerprint readers can sometimes not read fingerprints when you want them to. Combo locks are just ok. I prefer the good old fashioned thing, a key.

 

It also all depends on your situation. If your home defense gun is kept inside your safe along with 15 other guns, then IMO that safe has a different role then say a safe that holds 15 guns while your home defense gun is kept in your closet or some place OUTSIDE the safe.

 

Also, always get a bigger safe than you think. I got a small 8 gun safe to start with cause I thought, 'wow, 8 guns that is plenty'. That lasted only a year and next thing I know I had guns sitting outside the safe haha.

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I have a bio fingerprint fire safe by Brinks and had it for years. It holds important docs, money, a couple hand guns, and more. Not only has the bio NEVER failed, I still haven't had to replace the batteries yet. In case of failure, I have a heavy duty master key that will open it w/o the bio pad activated. I've been very pleased. It takes me mere seconds to open. That being said, if they had a decently priced bio safe with that type of setup for about 24 guns and fire rated, I'd get it. I hate remembering numbers!

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

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Electronic keypads will fail eventually. If there is a backup to let you in when they fail, then you don't have a safe in the first place. Just something easily picked.

 

Liberty safes are very expensive for thin metal. They should be easy to pry open or cut or smash open. Either pay hundreds less for something minimally tested (any UL RSC) or bump it up to something with thicker metal. Either is fine. Just that overpaying for "security" gadgets that a crackhead doesn't worry about is kind of pointless.

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Liberty safes are very expensive for thin metal. They should be easy to pry open or cut or smash open. Either pay hundreds less for something minimally tested (any UL RSC) or bump it up to something with thicker metal. Either is fine. Just that overpaying for "security" gadgets that a crackhead doesn't worry about is kind of pointless.

 

Let me guess. You have a $20,000 bank vault, right? Or you work for a Liberty competitor. :spiteful:

 

What's your definition of "thin metal"? And what "security gadgets" do you overpay for on a Liberty that "crackheads" don't worry about?

 

I'm not suggesting that Liberty is the best safe out there and nobody else makes anything good, but it's a little disingenuous to say Liberty is just thin metal with overpriced security gadgets. FWIW, if I had more $$ to spend, I would've bought a Ft. Knox safe, which are, IMHO, the best on the market.

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Let me guess. You have a $20,000 bank vault, right? Or you work for a Liberty competitor. :spiteful:

 

No. My best safe only cost about $2K, and wouldn't pass any UL TL test, not even a TL-15 (15 minute) test. So, not here to brag.

 

What's your definition of "thin metal"?

 

I think 12 gauge or 14 gauge metal is pretty damn thin and can be cut open enough to get guns out in about a minute.

 

And what "security gadgets" do you overpay for on a Liberty that "crackheads" don't worry about?

 

Hardplates and relockers and extra bolts and all the nonsense are pretty much BS for RSCs. Yes, it might be better to have them than not to have them. There is a 1% chance somebody might try to punch your lock out of the linkage with a drill and punch. But there is a 99% chance that your safe can be cut in half under two minutes with a grinder. Or smashed open with a hammer, cut open with a hand saw, or punched open with an axe.

 

Those technologies are intended to keep out locksmiths and safe crackers. They provide little protection against common threats to a 14-gauge gun safe. The nest time your liberty safe specialist tells you how hard it was to bust into a customer's safe because they lost the combination, pull out a hacksaw or grinder from under your coat and ask, "How long would it take with this?"

 

There's a difference between professionally opening a safe and simply getting the contents out.

 

I'm not suggesting that Liberty is the best safe out there and nobody else makes anything good, but it's a little disingenuous to say Liberty is just thin metal with overpriced security gadgets.

 

I think it is thin metal with overpriced security gadgets.

 

 

 

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600 pounds --- That's nothing -- My safe is in the ballpark of 2600 pounds, cost me $200 -- Craigslist.

 

When you get into the better, real safes, the used market becomes the place to buy.

Guy had the safe listed for $800 - Said he had a ton of people want it but they couldn't figure out how to load it into their small economical car and nobody wanted to pay for delivery

 

He had a bobcat on site, I came with a tandem axle trailer -- Used a wheel loader on my end to place it in my garage where I nuked the interior and turned it into a gun safe.

 

Took a little work but I've got a safe thats not a residential security cabinet. 1 inch thick steel all around including the door. It's fireproof supposedly for 90 minutes.

 

Easily changed combination lock, just needed the $6 key from ebay

 

The point is -- A real safe doesn't have to cost thousands if your motivated.

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I think 12 gauge or 14 gauge metal is pretty damn thin and can be cut open enough to get guns out in about a minute.

 

Only Liberty's base model is 12 gauge. After that, it's 11 or 7.

 

Hardplates and relockers and extra bolts and all the nonsense are pretty much BS for RSCs. Yes, it might be better to have them than not to have them. There is a 1% chance somebody might try to punch your lock out of the linkage with a drill and punch. But there is a 99% chance that your safe can be cut in half under two minutes with a grinder. Or smashed open with a hammer, cut open with a hand saw, or punched open with an axe.

 

Those technologies are intended to keep out locksmiths and safe crackers. They provide little protection against common threats to a 14-gauge gun safe. The nest time your liberty safe specialist tells you how hard it was to bust into a customer's safe because they lost the combination, pull out a hacksaw or grinder from under your coat and ask, "How long would it take with this?"

 

The extra bolts (and thicker/longer bolts) are for protection against a prying attack, which I would imagine is one of the most common. A hard plate's main purpose may be slowing down a drilling attack, but it has the added benefit of stiffening the door, which is a good thing for stopping a prying attack as well.

 

I agree with you that none of that is necessary if the sides of your safe can be ripped into easily, but most experts will tell you that 11 gauge is the minimum.

 

All a safe buys you is time. The thicker the metal, the bigger the bolts, bolting it down to the floor, are all things that buy more time. Bolting the safe to a concrete floor under an enclosed staircase will also help, as this will help protect the sides from a grinder/axe attack as well as minimize the amount of leverage someone could get with a pry bar.

 

Nothing will keep a determined criminal out, but many of us will never have to face the determined criminal (and if we did, we probably should be investing in something better than an RSC anyway...).

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600 pounds --- That's nothing -- My safe is in the ballpark of 2600 pounds, cost me $200 -- Craigslist.

 

When you get into the better, real safes, the used market becomes the place to buy.

Guy had the safe listed for $800 - Said he had a ton of people want it but they couldn't figure out how to load it into their small economical car and nobody wanted to pay for delivery

 

He had a bobcat on site, I came with a tandem axle trailer -- Used a wheel loader on my end to place it in my garage where I nuked the interior and turned it into a gun safe.

 

Took a little work but I've got a safe thats not a residential security cabinet. 1 inch thick steel all around including the door. It's fireproof supposedly for 90 minutes.

 

Easily changed combination lock, just needed the $6 key from ebay

 

The point is -- A real safe doesn't have to cost thousands if your motivated.

 

So you got the tandem axle trailer and the truck to pull it with for free? :facepalm: You're not counting transportation at all in your equation. Moving a 2600lb safe would easily cost thousands of dollars, not to mention if you don't have a garage, you're not getting puppy into the house.

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Haven't heard anyone mention combining a decently priced safe for under a grand with a decent security system. If you are concerned with high end than with cheap, I'd rather have something that would make them moderately hard to access combined with a modern security system. There is no better way other than to double your protection.

 

Nick from Mastodon here offers a pretty good deal. Other than that, any major alarm company would do.

 

You MAY get to my guns once you penetrate the outer shell of any container, but not before the world knows you are doing it. So your chances are slim to none you'll even get your pry bar out to touch my safe.

 

My system can not only notify a central station, but it also blasts a loud siren outside that also announces in voice what has happened and warns you. All combined with passive infra red sensors, contacts and pressure pads.

 

So, on that note, IF you don't have a system, get one! If you already have a sufficient system and an expensive safe makes you feel better by all means. But you'd be surprised how many don't have systems in their homes. Today, technology has become cheaper to produce. You can monitor everything! So why not?

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

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So you got the tandem axle trailer and the truck to pull it with for free? :facepalm: You're not counting transportation at all in your equation. Moving a 2600lb safe would easily cost thousands of dollars, not to mention if you don't have a garage, you're not getting puppy into the house.

 

 

I certainly didn't go out and buy a truck and trailer just for moving a safe -- Nothing is ever free -- on that particular day it was of no extra cost to move the safe -- Just time and fuel

 

and yes, that puppy is in the house -- without needing a garage to do it

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I certainly didn't go out and buy a truck and trailer just for moving a safe -- Nothing is ever free -- on that particular day it was of no extra cost to move the safe -- Just time and fuel

 

and yes, that puppy is in the house -- without needing a garage to do it

 

But that was my point. If I were to go buy a $200 2600lb safe off Craigslist, there's no way I'm getting it home for less than $2000. I certainly wouldn't trust 2600lbs on my steps/hardwood floors either. You had the equipment to do that already, which is great. If I had that type of equipment, I'd go for a deal like that too.

 

Most people, realistically, can't do what you did because we don't own or even have access to heavy equipment. Motivation has nothing to do with it.

 

ETA: Out of curiosity. How did you get it in the house? And on what floor is it installed? You said in your first post that it was in your garage, which is why I mentioned not having a garage would be a problem. Watching 2 guys bring in a 660lb safe was interesting, and the guy said to me that once you get over 1k lbs they are a challenge. I'm really curious how you got a > 1 ton safe into your house, and how are you dealing with the static floor load?

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BigHayden,

 

I'm mostly with you on this. My point was that I think Liberty are overpriced if protection is the concern. Double the cost they should be, unless you prefer their aesthetics. I would happily take one at the right price for the right purpose, I never said there was anything wrong with them. Only that you can get the same protection for far less money. Except for the ones with obvious flaws, or the ones that don't have the RSC rating, they are pretty much all the same until you start adding metal.

 

You bet your ass they have 14 gauge safes. I don't know if you work for them, but their metal thickness specs are pretty hard to pin down, and it sometimes depends on who you ask or what you go by.

 

How much does their 7 gauge safe cost? I can never find anything under 12 gauge for a decent price.

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Nah, I don't work for them. I just did a lot of research before buying mine.

 

All their new safes are 12 gauge and up. The old Centurion line (discontinued) was Chinese made and were only 14 gauge. I'm guessing that's what you're talking about. Liberty pulled all their manufacturing back into the US and upgraded their entry level safes. The new line is called the Revere, and even that line is RSC rated.

 

The 7 gauge steel starts in the Presidential line, but they are $4K for the 22 gun version :shok: Not what I would call a "decent price".

 

The hardest part about picking a safe is deciding how much protection you need, and then determining what's genuine protection and what's hype/fluff. The cheap Chinese safes may be enough for most people, myself included. But I opted for American made and a little better quality than what the entry level stuff offered.

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I got a 5 gauge Sturdy with 3/16 torch plates added to 3 sides, and fire protection, for $2300 delivered a little over a year ago. They are still the same price but the 5 gauge option is available in fewer models now. It's a "while supplies last" thing. Their standard is 7 gauge.

 

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ETA: Out of curiosity. How did you get it in the house? And on what floor is it installed? You said in your first post that it was in your garage, which is why I mentioned not having a garage would be a problem. Watching 2 guys bring in a 660lb safe was interesting, and the guy said to me that once you get over 1k lbs they are a challenge. I'm really curious how you got a > 1 ton safe into your house, and how are you dealing with the static floor load?

 

Your right -- If I didn't have the stuff to make it work I couldn't have done it so cheaply either --

 

As for my house -- I'm in a ranch -- No stairs to deal with-- I do have a basement -- all but 1 room is over basement -- Happens that the 1 room with no basement has outside access also -- safe is there

 

Used wheel loader with a set of forks to get it close then 6X6 runners for the rest of the way outside -- Safe on pipes to roll it on runners -- Once inside plywood protecting the floor and a pallet jack to move it into position

 

Difficult and slow going but possible -- I just happen to have the right situation to make it work

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Huh... Never heard of them before your post. But checking out their website, they look damn nice. Wish I would've known about them before I bought my Liberty. I could've saved myself $$ and gotten thicker steel. It looks like their delivery price only includes dropping it outside/in garage. I still would've had to hire a company to move it into the basement, but even after that, I'd still be ahead ~$100.

 

Well, like I said. What I have is likely more than I'll ever need, but next time I'm in the market for one, I'm keeping them in mind. Thanks for the info!

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Huh... Never heard of them before your post. But checking out their website, they look damn nice. Wish I would've known about them before I bought my Liberty. I could've saved myself $$ and gotten thicker steel. It looks like their delivery price only includes dropping it outside/in garage. I still would've had to hire a company to move it into the basement, but even after that, I'd still be ahead ~$100.

 

Well, like I said. What I have is likely more than I'll ever need, but next time I'm in the market for one, I'm keeping them in mind. Thanks for the info!

 

That's where I would put my money on middle of the road gun safes. I wouldn't put my money there for the cheap ones or for real TL rated safes.

 

In the end, how likely is it they will repel an attack that a Liberty would acquiesce to? Probably not likely. You need tools to get in either one, and the decisive tools will get you in either one. The Sturdy will take longer and will NOT be pried open.

 

Also, Sturdy is bare bones. Really, really bare bones. Liberty is luxury. Keep that in mind. Like I said, I need a new cheap RSC and I would happily pick up a Liberty if they were cheaper.

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