Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I need some help from fishing experts. I have an ugly stick with a penn spinning reel. I do not fish often so when I string the line I want it to last a while so it is ready to use for years to come. I chose a mono line last year but it turned out to be junk! It tangles and keeps no tension on the line. What type of line should I replace it with? I am thinking of purchasing a braided line maybe spiderwire since its strong and had little play but I would like to know some options first before I string it again. I perfer to fish with a really tight line to hook the fish right away.Thank you for any help you can provide!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Braided line is definately the best option but there are a few things you need to whatch out for. barided line is very thin, slick and not elastic, dont wind it on the real on its own, first put a few yards of 6 or 8 lbs mono on the real then tie the braides line to the monowith a double uni not. Then real the braided line very tight, if you dont it will sink into itself on the real. Dont set the hook like you would with mono, mono stretches braided doesnt, if you set the hook as hard with braided as you do with mono you will rip the fish's lips off. Finally, braided is very hard to cut, I use very sharp scissors or wire cutters, cutting it with a knife is extremely difficult. You can find many youtube videos on how to tie a uni no. one more thing, braided line is lighter than mono, it will fly off your real very fast. If you have a magnetic break use it, if not tighten your drag a little, otherwise you will end up with a birds nest and a birds nest qith braided will ruin you day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

depends on what you are fishing for. you can get away with braided line in saltwater fishing for the most part but good luck catching trout with braided line. It does not cast well with short light rods and light weight lures and it is easy for the fish to see IMO. I use braided for my boat rods but for casting rods I use Berkley Vanish it casts well and is invisible when in the water. But you need to replace it every year or just fish allot like me. The only casting rods I have braided in is my pike and musky rods because I usually don't have to cast far as I fish for them from a canoe usually.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am looking to do mostly freshwater fishing but also some saltwater for flounder or any fish close to the shore. Freshwater fish I will be looking to catch is mostly bass or just whatever bites it just fun to get out and relax a while.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am looking to do mostly freshwater fishing but also some saltwater for flounder or any fish close to the shore. Freshwater fish I will be looking to catch is mostly bass or just whatever bites it just fun to get out and relax a while.

For bass I would go mono or fluoro over clear areas using spinners, crank or spin baits. If you go with heavier bait over weed go with braid.

For flounder I use fluoro but like others stated braided works well too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't need braid for FW. Stick with mono. A great copolymer line is Gamma. 8lb test for instance is the same diameter as normal monofiliment except it breaks at 13.5lbs. It has very little memory and casts great. If you can't find it anywhere send me a pm and I can tell you who stocks it in NJ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree w/ saltwater, use braid. Fresh, use mono. For my light bass and trout fishing, I have always used good ol Stren 4lb, and have never had a problem, but you really should change out mono every year.

 

All my saltwater rigs are casting and have 20lb PowerPro braid.

 

If you are going for an all purpose fresh and light salt rig, I would still stick with mono, probably 8lb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use mono on my ultralight. But in my heavier lake pole I use braided. Mostly because of snakeheads. In the river I use mono just because if I get hung up striper fishing braided wont snap and I lose a lot of line cutting it at the pole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AS someone with braid on almost al lof his 40 fishing reels, I would def suggest monjo like he others.

 

braid line is difficult to dal with (tangles) and very dangerous.

 

If not a very experienced fisherman, I would shy away from it.

 

It has a lot of benefits to it, but lots of caveats as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Braid is the only line which will last for years on your reel. Mono degrades with exposure to sunlight, it stretches and stiffens. If not used regularly, mono will set into shape on your reel, making tangle free casting more problematic.

Use light braid and attach a few feet of mono to the tip. This will give you better hand hold when you have to grab the line to bring in a fish.

As far as visibility: if a fish does not mind hooks, beads, spinners, treble hooks, skirts, etc. - you will not have a problem using braid.

The species which are truly sensitive to line are not swimming within 50yds of the beach, nor are they hunting in the weeds of the lake.

For fresh water, use 8lb or even 6lb braid - size of 2lb mono. For salt, 20-30lb braid.

If using conventional reels, I suggest mono.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to agree with most of the info here. Mono for fresh, especially on spinning reels. When spooling the reel, don't have it done by the sport shop, spool it yourself! Place the spool on the floor, in most cases label side up, thread it through the guides and tie it to the spool, take a damp cloth and grab the line in one hand and reel the line in with a little tension on the line. This should put enough tension on the line as to not cause loops or twists and also clean any powder that is on the line. Store your rod & reel in a cool dark location when not in use and you should be able to get a few years out of your line. When using spinners, always use a swivel to keep the line twists to a minimum (ball bearing swivels work best), When you catch a fish that pulls drag be careful not to reel against the drag, this will also prevent line twists.

 

For saltwater, especially for fluke, braid is the best. More sensitive and firmer hook sets. Good knots are a must, braid is slicker and knots slip easily! The uni knot works well, you should add a length of fluorocarbon or mono leader to the end of your braid, this makes knot tying to your rig much easier and adds a little shock absorber when setting the hook.

 

Best of luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...