Jump to content
blksheep

.223 Reloading.

Recommended Posts

Just starting out reloading .223. I have primers, cases, bullets and powder. I have a Lee Classic turret press. I am wondering how do you guys start the process. Do you deprime and trim then tumble? Or do you tumble then deprime?

 

I have started to deprime, and am trying to collect enough where I can tumble a few hundred. I have read my reloading manual and have my discs set up for H322 powder for 55gr Hornady bullets.

 

What is your guys procedure for reloading? I know there is no "set" way to reload but give a newbie some guidance.

 

Rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is my process:

 

-Tumble dirty brass

-Lube clean brass

-Resize/deprime

-Wipe off lube

-Trim/chamfer brass

-Prime/charge brass

-Seat bullet/crimp brass

 

ETA: For precision ammo, you can add uniforming primer pockets in between wiping off the lube and trimming the brass.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've taken to doing a 10min tumble of the loaded ammo to get rid of the lube so I can just run it through the progressive press. Someone will now rush in to tell us how that will break down the powder, but 10min doesn't.

 

I do an initial trim and chamfer and then I use a RCBS X-die to keep the brass from growing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now with trimming. I have all once fired brass. With the Lee Trimmer none of it so far needed trimming using its guage. Is that normal?

Have you resized it yet? The resizing process is when the case gets longer. It will probably be within spec until you resize.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What type of Lee trimmer are you using? Is it just a length gauge that you insert into case? I would measure the length of the trimmer, and also you're cases...if your cases are at the appropriate length then you have nothing to worry about. If they are too long, it can create pressure inconsistencies because you'll be seating the bullets to different depths

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Careful with you semantics. It's important for clarity. You trim to "trim length" Not "Over All Length"

I was careful, I asked what oal is he trimming to. That obviously refers to the case since the topic at the moment was brass cases and their length. If we were referring to seating the bullet I could understand the possible confusion. I can see where you wouldn't want a new reloader to get confused though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was careful, I asked what oal is he trimming to. That obviously refers to the case since the topic at the moment was brass cases and their length. If we were referring to seating the bullet I could understand the possible confusion. I can see where you wouldn't want a new reloader to get confused though.

 

In any loading publication that the OP picks up "OAL" will include the bullet.  Based on the disparity in dimensions it would be hard to confuse OAL for "trim length".  just my $.02

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you measure the brass?  Trim to length is 1.75" and Maximum length is 1.76".  Dont let the trimmer decide if it need trimming, measure it.

Ken

 

A must have is a Wilson style gauge It's easy and absolute.  I don't ever measure 223 brass.  I just gauge it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you measure the brass?  Trim to length is 1.75" and Maximum length is 1.76".  Dont let the trimmer decide if it need trimming, measure it.

I let my Giraud trimmer decide all the time.

 

If my newly sized and delubed brass is long enough to make it to the cutting surface, it gets trimmed, chamfered and deburred.

Otherwise it never touches the cutting surface.

 

Next step, prime with the RCBS handheld and stand each piece up to be certain of no high primers (AR slam fires are not a good thing!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I let my Giraud trimmer decide all the time.

 

If my newly sized and delubed brass is long enough to make it to the cutting surface, it gets trimmed, chamfered and deburred.

Otherwise it never touches the cutting surface.

 

Next step, prime with the RCBS handheld and stand each piece up to be certain of no high primers (AR slam fires are not a good thing!)

I use the same method just with a different tool. I couldn't afford a Girard so I use the little crow gun works WFT. So far it has been spot on. It saves a step. If it's too long it gets trimmed, if the length is ok then it doesn't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now with trimming. I have all once fired brass. With the Lee Trimmer none of it so far needed trimming using its guage. Is that normal?

 

It's normal. Is it bad? No. Is it correct? That's debatable. For various calibers, I find the lee trimmer is pretty much at max trim to length. I prefer a set up closer to minimum trim to length because it means less work in the future. With something like an X-die to really minimize work/maximize time between trimmings, the lee one size fits all approach isn't going to work. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
    • And, charging your car at home? We've got you covered! California braces for new electric plan: Make more, pay more | Fox Business
    • I'm thinking L88? Or is my memory faulty?
×
×
  • Create New...