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By MichaelDiggs
I like cleaning my AR. I can get just about place I need to. One area I'm having trouble with is one end of the bolt carrier. Not the end where you use the Otis cleaning tool, but the other side. If I look into there I see some build up carbon that I just can't get to. A wire brush won't fit and it is a tight fit. What I need is some kind of brush with the bristles on the end of the brush itself to stick down this carrier and just start twisting the brush to clean as much the carbon as it can. Is there anything like that out there at all? Preferably brass, don't want to scratch anything up. Not sure if that area was overlooked by the cleaning companies or what, but it does leave carbon build up on every range day. The picture in this post is the area I can clean with the Otis tool. It is the other side that I can't get into. Went to Lowes, Home Depot, trying to think outside the box to even make a tool. Any ideas or is anyone as OCD as this?
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By Sig
Hello everyone, brand new to the board so let me know if I'm in the right subforum or if I can have this better answered elsewhere. pagunforums.com anyone? lol
Can anyone recommend an FFL in Pennsylvania that will pin weld breaks, pin stocks, and also accept transfers. I live in North Jersey so anything in North PA with low FFL and gunsmithing fees are preferable. I am running into problems with a shop refusing to send complete AR 15s to NJ FFLs. Any help is appreciated.
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By son of sam
I have machined a few of my handgun slides to accept a micro red dot. Currently there is a decent business available for machinists with the equipment to do the job properly. My question is. Can I accept slide only (no frame or receiver or other serialized parts) into my shop to CNC mill the slide for rmr? Or does this constitute being in the "gun business"? I have sent an e-mail to the ATF with this very same question but, I dont know when I will hear back from them. As far as I can read from any of the ATF frequently asked Q&A I can do such business. I could also for example make parts such as charging handles, handguards etc.. However, I dont want to be on the wrong side of the laws. I will not take any answer as an offer of legal advice. Merely asking the question to know if I should proceed with paying someone for a official interpretation of the law.
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By Cereza
I'm asking this on behalf of my husband, who recently purchased his first firearm.
He cleaned it following the manual along with a YouTube video. Both said to put a single drop of oil at 7 points. He used the bottle of Hoppe's 9 Lubricating Oil that came with his kit (this one: http://www.hoppes.com/cleaning-kits/more/rifle-kit-with-aluminum-rod ) to do that. The first time, which was after he bought it home from the shop, he realized he used too-large drops and wasn't surprised when he saw some leakage. When he cleaned the firearm after his trip to the range, he focused on using smaller drops, but there was still leakage.
Both times he noticed oil on the side of the frame that faced down in the case during storage, and on the ejection port. Handling it and working the slide a few times after the second cleaning, he also noticed some oil near the takedown lever (which is on the up side during storage).
Should he be cleaning/oiling less frequently, or should he be using a different oil (or at least a different application method for the oil)? Or is this normal?
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By Gunnz
Anyone on the forums a certified Smith and Wesson armorer?
I am selling my M&P40c, which has an APEX FSS trigger, and want to take out it and put back in the stock trigger.
Matt from Shore shot installed it, he was a certified armor, but has since moved away from NJ..
I am decent enough to mess with my glocks, but don't feel comfortable enough to mess with the M&P.
Thanks for looking.
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Posts
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We never let then inside. Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
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I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield. Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe. https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
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By silverado427 · Posted
The 12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the ZL1 was a all aluminum 12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam -
By maintenanceguy · Posted
I like my regular carry holster. OWB leather with belt slots. I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it. I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer. It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side. The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact. Anything insulating will make it worse. I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin. I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets. But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated. -
Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it.
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