Build at last!

[5th4x4 0]

http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/classifieds/item/761-wtswtt-ar-accessories/

 

Just sayin

"Just sayin" is what I'm hoping for!

I suppose it's best to talk shop in PM(?).

Or here. You tell me. 

I just want to know the "what and why" for going with whatever choice. Bonus for me is in reciprocating favors to those who have helped me so much.

[checko 180]

I don't care for you to ask questions here but pricing or transactions should be done via pm.

[bhunted 887]

Troy dioptics are nice. Thought I read it may not fit under my TA01... Have to research again unless someone can confirm it works.

[5th4x4 0]

I have an extra carbine handguards as well if you're interested

 

 

Look like that with 3 small rail sections added on.

 

I did find this look intriguing the moment that I saw you post it. But I had wanted to see an image of it mounted on a finished rifle - and I think that was part of my browser crash (although not necessarly the cause).

I'll re-search for an image of that now.

[checko 180]

Yeah I'll get you a pic on my rifle.

[checko 180]

[pbkid6974 1]

Troy dioptics are nice. Thought I read it may not fit under my TA01... Have to research again unless someone can confirm it works.

what do you mean under? i just got the dioptic sights and put them on. i dont see why you couldnt put them offset at 45 degrees the sight picture on them is great. i shoot right handed and i'm cross eye dominant and i pick it up without even thinking about it.

[5th4x4 0]

Yeah I'll get you a pic on my rifle.

Hmmm... yeah, that's a sleek look. Hmmmm.

[bhunted 887]

The TA01 has to be practically on the last groove to get decent eye relief. The sight needs to be able to collapse under the scope to leave it on. I'm not keen on he 45s yet plus I'd have to get he front too. So first groove for buis then TA01... I had to bring stock almost all the way to get full sight picture. Right now it's ok with 2 grooves available. Follow what I'm saying?

[bhunted 887]

See here...

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

[checko 180]

Hmmm... yeah, that's a sleek look. Hmmmm.

I honestly did like them, the non railed part of the hand guards is fairly slender and easy to hold. You can unscrew and rearrange the rails, add full length, or add bumpers.

[pbkid6974 1]

The TA01 has to be practically on the last groove to get decent eye relief. The sight needs to be able to collapse under the scope to leave it on. I'm not keen on he 45s yet plus I'd have to get he front too. So first groove for buis then TA01... I had to bring stock almost all the way to get full sight picture. Right now it's ok with 2 grooves available. Follow what I'm saying?

so you would need to take off the TA01 to use the irons? they are a smidge under half an inch high folded down.

[bhunted 887]

so you would need to take off the TA01 to use the irons? they are a smidge under half an inch high folded down.

Pretty much.... I don't mind taking it off because it retains zero fine...

Smidgen under half? I'll have to measure it....

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

[5th4x4 0]

Ok, so handguards have been settled. And a rear sight is apparently(?) on the way (more on that when I can actually confirm that information).

So that leaves the 2 last remaining items that are required in order to be fully functional:

1) Mag

2) Ammo

 

Mag first:

From what I have run across in a number of scattered posts throughout this forum, the mag options are more extensive than I had previously understood that they could be in this state... and that is due to "pinning"(?????).

Really?? (or did I misunderstand?)

Can someone please shed some light on that topic of magazines for me?

 

Ok, now onto Ammo:

When it came to ammo for the M16, I didn't get to choose it or buy it. It was either handed to me, or I pulled boxes of it directly out of an ammo can. And therein lies my experience with obtaining ammo for my rifle. (FREE AMMO!!!! Don't hate : P  Although.... most of you have probably scattered far more brass than I ever have anyway, so who's hatin' who!)

 

Anyway, that leads me to my main two questions about that.

The first question is:

Best to buy online.... or to buy local?

 

The second question is:

Buy what? (for what)

I've read about different ammo being used by many of you (depending on purpose). So I guess what I mostly need to know is what "general purpose" ammo should I be using (for say, a local range).

I do want to learn how to match the right ammo to specific needs though, so I'd be open to any information that anyone would care to impart (or link to).

 

Btw, totally off the path here, but do they sell tracers in the civilian world? (that's just a curiosity that occurred to me when I began to think about my only previous experience with "matching" ammo to a specific need)

 

Ok, so whatever I can learn from you guys would be most appreciated as always.

[vladtepes 1,060]

Ok, so handguards have been settled. And a rear sight is apparently(?) on the way (more on that when I can actually confirm that information).

So that leaves the 2 last remaining items that are required in order to be fully functional:

1) Mag

2) Ammo

 

Mag first:

From what I have run across in a number of scattered posts throughout this forum, the mag options are more extensive than I had previously understood that they could be in this state... and that is due to "pinning"(?????).

Really?? (or did I misunderstand?)

Can someone please shed some light on that topic of magazines for me?

 

Ok, now onto Ammo:

When it came to ammo for the M16, I didn't get to choose it or buy it. It was either handed to me, or I pulled boxes of it directly out of an ammo can. And therein lies my experience with obtaining ammo for my rifle. (FREE AMMO!!!! Don't hate : P  Although.... most of you have probably scattered far more brass than I ever have anyway, so who's hatin' who!)

 

Anyway, that leads me to my main two questions about that.

The first question is:

Best to buy online.... or to buy local?

 

The second question is:

Buy what? (for what)

I've read about different ammo being used by many of you (depending on purpose). So I guess what I mostly need to know is what "general purpose" ammo should I be using (for say, a local range).

I do want to learn how to match the right ammo to specific needs though, so I'd be open to any information that anyone would care to impart (or link to).

 

Btw, totally off the path here, but do they sell tracers in the civilian world? (that's just a curiosity that occurred to me when I began to think about my only previous experience with "matching" ammo to a specific need)

 

Ok, so whatever I can learn from you guys would be most appreciated as always.

 

 

in NJ you can not have a large capacity mag (over 15 rounds) PERIOD...

a large capacity mag is ONLY not a large capacity mag if it has been permanently modified to accept 15 or less..

 

I shoot federal XM193... for typical move and shoot center mass type shooting.. actually its all I shoot.. and that is essentially general purpose 55 gr ammo.. 

this was produced with that ammo.. at approximately 75 yards..

 

it is best to buy ammo where you can.. it is starting to be more obtainable now.. I like to buy it in bulk and save some money... 

 

you can not shoot tracer ammo in NJ.. I believe you can technically own it.. but you can NOT shoot it.. 

[checko 180]

I have only MidwestPX Pmags at the moment.  Personally I like the 15/30's over the others because I like the more area to grab sticking out of my pouches or mag well.  Makes reloading easier. 15/20s are great for bench shooting.  I would like to get a couple metal mags eventually but the Pmags are really reliable.

Magazines have to be PERMANENTLY altered as to hold no more than 15 rounds.  The definition of permanent is slightly vague.  Generally it is considered permanent if the only way to remove the mag limiter would be to destroy the magazine in the process.  

 

As far as ammo, I guess it depends what you are looking to get out of it. I generally use PMC .223 cause its cheap and goes boom every time but I've had good experiences with federal xm193, augila .223 and federal .223.  I'm not a precision shooter so minute-of-man is good enough for me.  You'll eventually hear the steel vs brass case debate.  Some people swear by steel but in my experience, I've seen far more stoppages with steel than brass.  Basically what I'm saying is, unless your shooting bullseye, buy the cheapest ammo that you know will work EVERY time you pull the trigger.   

 

As far as local vs online, I'm with Vlad.  If you see Dicks or your LGS with the one you like on sale at $6-$7 a box I'd be all over it.  Otherwise online is where your going to be finding the better deals. 

[Lalo 13]

I believe that the best source for legal, pinned mags at the moment is MidWestPX. He is a forum vendor and will not do you wrong. Pricing is fair and shipping is quick. He is currently supplying a lot of LGS (local gun shops) with his magazines to sell (he has a list in his sub-forum I believe). I prefer to purchase from him directly to avoid the LGS markup. I personally prefer the 15/30 body for the same reasons Checko mentioned above but I do own a 15/20 and a bunch of 10rd PMAGs in case I want to shoot from a bench or prone.

15/30 - http://midwestpx.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_51&products_id=264
15/20 - http://midwestpx.com/index.php?cPath=27_71

As far as ammo, again, I agree with what Vlad or Checko said, but I am going to add that I DO shoot steel cased ammo on all of my AR's.  I've been shooting steel since I started shooting a couple years back and have never had any issues or malfunctions caused by the ammo. As long as you clean your AR after shooting steel, you should be good to go. The nice thing about steel cased ammo versus the others (brass) is that it's cheaper to purchase but nowadays, maybe not by much. Definitely not going to win any accuracy contests shooting steel either, but if you're just plinking at distances under 100yds or taking a class with a high round count, it works just fine. Some people will say that their high end AR's CAN'T shoot steel, saying it jams and malfunctions every time and its garbage ammo. Some people who treat their AR's like safe queens will say they never even let steel cased ammo NEAR their AR's because or corrosion, how dirty it is, etc... To each their own. I'll continue shooting steel and I'll continue to keep my guns clean all the time.

Where to get ammo? Most LGS have some in stock. I've been to Silver Bullet, Ottomaneli's not long ago and they had some available but not for the price that I would pay. I actually haven't purchased ammo from a local shop since early last year because it was either not available or too pricey. Purchasing ammo over the web is pretty easy. Some places on the web will ask you to first send them a copy of your FID and/or drivers license so they have it on file BEFORE you place your order. Once you read around and get more info on ammo, if you choose to purchase online, use gunbot.net to help you find the cheapest available. Just be ready to jump on it quickly because sometimes when deals come up, they go very quickly. Keep an eye on the hot deals section, subscribe to it so you get the notifications by email.

http://gunbot.net

Also, read up on the barrel twist rates thread that is pinned to this sub-forum. Your barrel is a 1:7 twist. I've shot 55gr and 62gr through my 1:7 & 1:9 twist AR's with no noticeable difference in accuracy but then again, the longest I've shot is at 100yd range.

[Krdshrk 3,878]

I was at Dick's in Woodbridge on Saturday picking up some clays - they had a bit of .223.  $9.99 - 20 rnd box of PMC Bronze.

 

I would recommend you buy online though.  I do find some ammo sometimes but you gotta jump quick on the good deals.  Use a site like AmmoEngine:

http://www.ammoengine.com/find/ammo/.223_Remington_5.56x45mm

[voyager9 3,440]

Another ammo price tracking site:

http://www.gunbot.net/

 

For some reason the list is different from the one Krdshrk posted above.

[vladtepes 1,060]

I always shot brass over steel and alway kept the brass...I am finally just getting into reloading and glad I paid a little extra for brass since now I have all those extra supplies....

[blksheep 466]

I always shot brass over steel and alway kept the brass...I am finally just getting into reloading and glad I paid a little extra for brass since now I have all those extra supplies....

I am also keeping all of my brass. Havent got into reloading just yet but hopefully soon.

[5th4x4 0]

I am also keeping all of my brass. Havent got into reloading just yet but hopefully soon.

 

I used to collect the brass from the fifty. At one point I must have had double-digit ammo boxes full of it.

I ended up trading most of it for what turned out to be a pretty crappy surfboard. He was a pretty hard-core stoner Cali dude, so I had no idea what he was planning to do with all of that brass.... but there was a lot of it!

 

I'm very McGuyver-ish, so I will definitely keep my brass and eventually get into reloading (since I assume it's well worth the effort?)

[Lalo 13]

BTW, in case you haven't yet, invest in a chamber brush and some CLP (or any other cleaner - this is another thread all together) and scrub the chamber clean. You want to remove any grease that is used when the upper was put together and was left on for storage. If left dirty, you may encounter extraction problems or not stripping a new round from the mag or the bolt wont get held back on the last round. I've seen plenty of people have issues with new AR's and often blame the gun itself or the ammo when they encounter issues.

 

[vladtepes 1,060]

BTW, in case you haven't yet, invest in a chamber brush and some CLP (or any other cleaner - this is another thread all together) and scrub the chamber clean. You want to remove any grease that is used when the upper was put together and was left on for storage. If left dirty, you may encounter extraction problems or not stripping a new round from the mag or the bolt wont get held back on the last round. I've seen plenty of people have issues with new AR's and often blame the gun itself or the ammo when they encounter issues.

 

You should see my new gun break in procedure.... It involves no cleaning products and a bunch of ammo....lol

[5th4x4 0]

BTW, in case you haven't yet, invest in a chamber brush and some CLP (or any other cleaner - this is another thread all together) and scrub the chamber clean. You want to remove any grease that is used when the upper was put together and was left on for storage. If left dirty, you may encounter extraction problems like not stripping a new round from the mag or the bolt wont get held back on the last round. I've seen plenty of people have issues with new AR's and often blame the gun itself or the ammo when they encounter issues.

 

 

Way ahead of you on that one Lalo! : P

I don't care how long it's been, but there isn't a Marine on the planet who hasn't had it drilled into his very being about keeping a spotless rifle.  

 

It's like the Fire Department guys; anytime a truck leaves the firehouse, they wash it when they get back - fire or no fire.

Same for Marines; the rifle goes out.... it gets cleaned when you get back - fire or no fire.

 

I obviously can't speak for all of us, but I feel pretty confident in saying that Marines clean their weapons far far far more than they ever fire them. After all, they'd make us clean them just to keep us busy sometimes. It can become a sick joke after a while, but we just do what we do best: 

1) b**** about it (Marines b**** about everything!!!)

2) clean our rifles

 

So yeah, excellent advice Lalo... but I've cleaned my rifle a few times already  : P

(and it's not even complete yet!!!)

Once a Marine......

[Lalo 13]

Hey that works too! Just keep shooting and shooting, working through the malfunctions, etc... eventually everything will flush/blow itself out and burrs will get smoothed out on their own. If I had ammo to spare, this would be my preferred method of breaking in an AR too!

[5th4x4 0]

Hey that works too! Just keep shooting and shooting, working through the malfunctions, etc... eventually everything will flush/blow itself out and burrs will get smoothed out on their own. If I had ammo to spare, this would be my preferred method of breaking in an AR too!

Hmmm.... that's a little bit of a news flash for me.

 

Seeing as I've never had a rifle that was a virgin when I got her, I guess I really never considered that there was a breaking in period that included early malfunctions. But I guess that makes sense; everything needs to get all heated up together, form a bit of a fit with each other. Sure, makes sense.

 

So.... first time (or two) out, just focus on spitting out rounds for a while?  

 

Yeesh... I have no idea why it didn't occur to me that this rifle will have never even been test-fired before. Brain malfunction.

[alowerlevel 77]

BTW, in case you haven't yet, invest in a chamber brush and some CLP (or any other cleaner - this is another thread all together) and scrub the chamber clean. You want to remove any grease that is used when the upper was put together and was left on for storage. If left dirty, you may encounter extraction problems or not stripping a new round from the mag or the bolt wont get held back on the last round. I've seen plenty of people have issues with new AR's and often blame the gun itself or the ammo when they encounter issues.

 

 

 

Pffffttt, Whats that thing for? lol.  

 

My break in procedure is the same as Vlads, no cleaning, just add oil and a few hundred rounds of ammo.  Hell I think the last time I cleaned my gun was some 500+ rounds (mostly steel case) ago, and even then all I did was run a few wet patches down the bore, wiped everything else off and re-oiled it (Slip2000 EWL is the s**t).  Gun runs just fine as it is and before the last cleaning it had well over 1k rounds (again mostly steel case) with no cleaning and no malfunctions whatsoever.

[checko 180]

This article has been posted before and I just want to add it for some perspective.

 

http://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/

 

Now I'm not advising you to try this particular cleaning regiment, but I don't strip and clean my car's after every session. I probably go 700-1000 rounds before I strip it. I've never had one failure in either of my guns.

 

You should however be looking for undue wear and tear on bcg and other major parts. And always always keep it lubed.

[bhunted 887]

It's a belly button lint remover!

 

Pffffttt, Whats that thing for? lol.

 

My break in procedure is the same as Vlads, no cleaning, just add oil and a few hundred rounds of ammo. Hell I think the last time I cleaned my gun was some 500+ rounds (mostly steel case) ago, and even then all I did was run a few wet patches down the bore, wiped everything else off and re-oiled it (Slip2000 EWL is the s**t). Gun runs just fine as it is and before the last cleaning it had well over 1k rounds (again mostly steel case) with no cleaning and no malfunctions whatsoever.

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...