Some real grungy brass turned to Bling

[Heavyopp 167]

The parts:

 

 6" sdr 35 pvc pipe  14.5 inches long with square cuts on the ends --  I use a chop saw and kinda roll the pipe into the blade to make the cut

 

2" sch 40 pvc 14.5" long quartered on my tablesaw --  It's orange because it's fire sprinkler rated pipe -- comes from a job site I'm on -- I grab all the scraps I can --

 

One word of caution on quartering on a tablesaw -- wedge a piece of wood inside of the 2" pipe to keep it  "open" when you finish the cut -- the PVC will want to close or squeeze the saw blade at the end of the cut and rip it right out of your hands --  be aware of where your fingers are -

 

1 - 6X4 reducer and 1- 6" cap --  both sized for sdr35 and not sch40 --  I get them a lowes -- cheaper then my suppliers

 

 

Layout the marks for the agitators -- I just do it by eye -- no real need for precision

 

 

Layout the hole in the drum and thru the clamped agitator -- combo square is set at 2" -- the fittings are 3" deep -- 2" keeps the screws under the fittings

 

 

Drill the hole --  get close to the edge of the agitator

 

 

 

Countersink the outside using the appropriate bit

 

 

[Heavyopp 167]

The inside -- stainless washer and nylock nut

 

 

As suggested by others on this forum, I decided that protecting the brass from the end of the screw couldn't hurt -- I ended up using a small piece of windshield washer hose

 

 

do it 7 more times --

 

 

here's what it looks like on the outside

 

 

Time to glue it up --  Pay attention to the direction you want to rotate --  I like it all to run smooth inside so I rotate it with the "wedge" of the agitators leading the way in the drum --  I also like my rubber cap on the end of the tumbler without the motor -- I figure that the most likely failure of the drum would be the rubber cap coming off during cleaning

 

Getting ready to glue --  Prime both the pipe and the fitting -- the fitting should reach down this far over the screw

 

 

And thats as far as I was able to go --  My glue was bad --  all jellied up --  I only had 1" left in the can and it didn't survive

 

I'll finish it up tomorrow, when I can use a fresh can of glue  

[louu 399]

That's awesome man.

 

How about instead of putting rubber on the end of the bolts maybe use those cap head nuts, ever see them?

You may have to trim the bolts or use extra washers so they don't bottom out.

[Heavyopp 167]

I use 3/4" long #10 screws --  I could get 5/8 long screws instead they are available --  

 

The rubber hose on the screws on my personal drum have seen a few miles and I have never needed to replace 1

[A-Tech 8]

Why not put the screws from the inside out and have them counter sunk? Any interference with the rollers if you do that?

[louu 399]

I think its so the end caps cover the holes and make it leak proof.

[A-Tech 8]

What end cap? The wiper hose on the end of the nut isn't sealing anything. Something like soaking each screw set with silicon before installing would seal it.

[djg0770 481]

What end cap? The wiper hose on the end of the nut isn't sealing anything. Something like soaking each screw set with silicon before installing would seal it.

 

The cap that he glues OVER the end of the pipe

[Heavyopp 167]

Why not put the screws from the inside out and have them counter sunk? Any interference with the rollers if you do that?

 

 

I don't think you would have enough clearance with the rollers unless you modified the drum

 

The drum only contacts the rollers on the fittings now but there's only 1/4" of room to spare -- just not enough for even a nut without the washer on the outside

 

Silicone would probably work to seal for awhile but would be in need of constant maintenance -- not something I want to be part of

[Heavyopp 167]

What end cap? The wiper hose on the end of the nut isn't sealing anything. Something like soaking each screw set with silicon before installing would seal it.

 

Drum isn't done in the pictures --  My glue was jelly so I couldn't use it --  I'll get to it tonight and finish it up

[AverageJoe 95]

What is the different in distance from where the screws are now to where they would have to be to clear the end caps? Doesn't look to be all that much? I see what A-Tech is getting at...can the screws be moved inward just enough to clear the cap? Do they make a "lower profile" cap so to speak? Can it be trimmed? Then again, the more I think bout it, would the screws clear the rollers as it spins if they were placed in reverse?

[AverageJoe 95]

What about something like this...male/female screw sets...flat on both ends...pics just for ideas.

 

 

[A-Tech 8]

What about something like this...male/female screw sets...flat on both ends...pics just for ideas.

 

 

Boom

[Heavyopp 167]

Those are called sex bolts and you could certainly use them --Sex bolts & Mating screws

 

You would have to figure out the proper length and they are not cheap but it's definitely possible

 

You are still looking at extra work and maintenance to seal the drum but you would have less bolt on the inside --  Was that the reason why we're having this discussion?

 

If you found one with a shallow enough head there might be enough plastic to still countersink them under the cap.  Would solve the sealing issue.

[A-Tech 8]

I think at this point, it's just for aesthetics, and eliminating parts (wiper hose).

[Porthole 15]

One word of caution on quartering on a tablesaw -- wedge a piece of wood inside of the 2" pipe to keep it  "open" when you finish the cut -- the PVC will want to close or squeeze the saw blade at the end of the cut and rip it right out of your hands --  be aware of where your fingers are

 

 

Just want to reiterate Jeremy's caution here. If you have never tried to lengthwise cut a piece of PVC on a table saw, be very careful.

A band saw would be better, but still has the same issue of the blade pinch.

[louu 399]

Would it be best just to raise the blade on the table saw just the thickness of the pipe? About 3/8"? I don't have a band saw.

[BullzeyeNJ 104]

The stainless steel media is a great system. I have one and used it extensively for pistol and rifle. With that being said, its a more labor intensive process to deprime brass, wet clean the brass, wash the brass, and then dry the brass. I still use it for rifle brass but for pistol I am back to dry cleaning the brass with brasso and corn cob media in a vibratory cleaner. I pour dirty brass in my vibratory and let it clean for 3 hours. Separate the media from the brass and I am done. Brass looks really clean.

 

My ammo shoots just as accurate with the dry media method vs the wet tumbling.

[Heavyopp 167]

Would it be best just to raise the blade on the table saw just the thickness of the pipe? About 3/8"? I don't have a band saw.

That's all I do --  just enough blade to cut thru the pipe --  But it will still grab and throw that piece clear across the room if your not careful

 

I ripped a 6" long piece of oak flooring to fit snug inside the PVC pipe --  I just wedge it in there and make the cut -- At the end of the cut the wood forces the pipe open keeping it controllable 

[louu 399]

Ohh, I get it, nice tip.

Thanks man.

[Scorpio64 5,156]

I know that and agree with you. That's why I said but that's not the point.

 

It's not always economically viable to patent something. Ever tried? It's very time consuming and expensive. Lawyers involved if you want to do it right. Just because someone doesn't patent something doesn't mean they look forward to having someone rip off their design. I don't know how this guy improved it anyway. Again not really my point.

 

My point in case someone missed it is that if he wants to sell his tumblers on here he needs to get a forum vendor account.

 

Some of us see this post as innocent and informative while some see what it really is... Advertising.

It is highly unlikely that the Bigdawg productyou speak of  was an original concept or design in the first place. Bigdawg probably copied theri design from someone else.  I have invented many many things in the past  only to find out they have already been invented.  Unless this guys product is a one for one knockoff there is nothing to complain about.  Also, a design may be similar but substantially imporved upon.  As long as it is an improved design, there is no patent infringement.   Here in America, capitalism and innovation is not a crime.

 

Furthermore, he has it listed in the for sale section.  If the forum owners don't have a problem with this, neither should you.  However, if you do have a gripe, the proper way to handle it is to take it up with the moderators instead of polluting this guys post.. 

[SmartAss 11]

What about just gluing some square pvc to the inside of the drum for the agitators?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4-in-x-1-1-2-in-x-8-ft-Cellular-PVC-Trim-White-H190HWS3/100275037

Maybe round it a little bit with some sandpaper so it fits to the curvature of the drum.

 

What is used for the rollers? Is that 1/2" gas line pipe?

 

Is that a 1/3 hp motor? Can you get away with using a smaller motor?

[alec.mc 180]

What about just gluing some square pvc to the inside of the drum for the agitators?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4-in-x-1-1-2-in-x-8-ft-Cellular-PVC-Trim-White-H190HWS3/100275037

Maybe round it a little bit with some sandpaper so it fits to the curvature of the drum.

 

What is used for the rollers? Is that 1/2" gas line pipe?

 

Is that a 1/3 hp motor? Can you get away with using a smaller motor?

 

It's solid steel rod wrapped with a rubber hose for traction.

 

I dont think a glued peice would hold up , remember you have 10-15 pounds of stainless steel pins, plus another 8-13 pounds of brass bouncing around in there.

[Kingsoverqueens 10]

Sure...Jer posts photo's and instructions AFTER I buy one. lol

 

It's a great machine and well worth paying him to build you one, or building one yourself.  Either way...great machine.

 

I'd wind up cutting a thumb off.

[zoid 24]

I love the clean brass and the only part I hate about steel media is punching out all the primers prior to cleaning.

That I simply do not have the time and will for.  I am kind of a pick up and go type of reloader.  My brass comes

out maybe 80% as clean as what is seen in these pictures with standard dry media and some brass polish.  Good

enough for me.  

 

If I had the space and perhaps more time I do agree steel media is the way to go.

 

As for the selling of the drum contraption there are a lot of people who build products in their home that mimic other

products on a commercial level.  I don't see the issue with it personally.  

 

Hmm.... on an alternate note though... maybe you could sell some of that shiny gold brass!!!  

[tony357 386]

Old school Bling..

 

 

[alec.mc 180]

The Seif Tumbler in action ! 

 

deprimed an assload of 38 special to clean up.

 

I load it to the top and run it over night, they come up amazingly clean.

 

[Heavyopp 167]

Nice  -- Your caps are off the grease zerks on the left side...

 

  just sayin

[Porthole 15]

So, as an experiment, I ran some rounds through that had been wet from sandy.

Would have been trashed so nothing to lose except for a few hours time.

 

45 ACP, 230 grain JHP. Got wet and left in the wet boxes to dry out out unattended.

This after approximately 20 hours or so tumbling in crushed walnut.

 

 

Same rounds after 2.5-3 hours in the wet mix

 

 

 

Two empties thrown in with the full rounds just to see if they get beat up much.

 

 

 

Also had 7 boxes of 45 ACP, 230 FMJ Blazers. Sandy wet and sat with the above rounds. These did not fair well

 

 

 

Some of the bullets fell out of the shells. They were thrown in with the wet tumble.

 

 

 

Great tumbler ya made there Jeremy.

[alec.mc 180]

You're running fully assembled cartridges through the wet tumbler with primers and powder?

 

I'd be real weary about firing those, even though there is a crimp around the bullet, I wouldnt be suprised if water made it's way into the powder, and also the primer.