Selecting a New Entry Door

[ChrisJM981 924]

Long story short: buying a home with a doggie door. It has got to go. Any recommendations for a new entry door? I'm primarily interested in security and durability, asthetics are secondary. I'm thinking a steel door, since they're durable and inexpensive compared to a wood one. Any brand recommendations or tips?

[checko 180]

Ive worked and managed the doors and windows section of lowes for a number of years and the door i recommend to most people is fiberglass.

 

Steel is an excellent conductor of heat and cold (bad), it dents and dings very easy (think kids and large dogs) but cant be very cheap. Wood looks beautiful but is a PITA to upkeep and refinish.

Fiberglass is very durable, not a very good conductor, can be painted or gel stained to look like wood. The high end doors can look almost identical to wood but will come with a price tag.

 

If youre near Hillsborough you can come in and we can do a quote or pm me with specific questions. There are about 748482627496 dofferent models to choose from.

[Malsua 1,422]

I would skip a steel door because scratches and sidewalk salt will ultimately show up as rust and look like hell.  As far as security and battering the door down, it's never the door's fault unless it's hollow wood and you wouldn't use that on an entry door.   It's almost always the door frame that splits at the bolt.  Get long bolts and re-enforcing plates and even the cops with a battering ram will have to work really hard to get in.  A thug shoulder or foot won't get the job done..

 

As far as insulation goes, to disagree with the previous poster, steel doors can, and often do have the same U value(think R-value for doors but the numbers are inverted i.e. lower is better) of wood or fiberglass entry doors.  Definitely compare the insulation ratings and look for a low U-value.

 

Fiberglass doors are terrible fire doors, even the best ones can barely make the 20 minute mark.  Minimum ratings on wood doors usually start where fiberglass doors are finished.  Steel doors can often stand 1500+ degrees for 90 minutes+.    If you are in an area subject to occasional wildfires, it'd be an issue.  Here is Jersey it generally wouldn't be.

 

I would also just add one more bit of caution.  Unless you're planning on moving out in a few years, get one that matches the house, specially if it's a front door that you and everyone else will see as soon as you look at the house.   If you buy something just to get it done, 15 years down the road you'll wish you'd done it right in the first place even if it cost more.  Unless the house is new, you'll be finding stuff to fix until it's time to leave and getting back around to the door won't seem very appealing.  Installing doors is a pita, specially in an out of square house.

[maintenanceguy 510]

Fiberglass (also called FRP) is definately the way to go.   Available in hundreds, of window styles and panel layouts.   Will last better than wood or steel with less maintenance.

 

The only caveat with fiberglass doors is that the window trim is usually plastic and it can warp if you have a storm door with a lot of glass.  It creates a mini greenhouse. between the two doors.

[T Bill 649]

Give these guys a shot.  That's all they do.  Every style, shape, quality products. 

 

North Jersey Door in Ramsey.   www.njdoor.com

[czechmark 5]

We're having a fiberglass entry door from Lowe's installed tomorrow. They have always been a great source of quality products and installation teams.

[ChrisJM981 924]

It's going to be a back door. I forgot to mention that. It leads to a 3 season room, so it will not be exposed to the weather much, aside from the heat & cold. I'm going to be in the Dover area. My concern is forced entry. I'm up in the air if I want a solid door or one with a half window and blinds inbetween like this. http://www.lowes.com/pd_381355-42736-381355_4294858086__?productId=3652655&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo= I also can't figure out why the fiberglass doors jump from $2-300 up to $800. Is there a major difference?

[RecessedFilter 222]

All things aside, if you are going for a security door, wouldn't one without glass be better than one with glass? It's great if you have a strong door with reinforcing plates and all that jazz but it seems like a glass window negates all that. May sound like a stupid question but I am asking it seriously.

[czechmark 5]

I believe that the "Energy Star" rating accounts for much of the price difference between steel and fiberglass. Also, the blinds-in-window is a nice feature but not the most secure solution unless it's plexiglass.

[maintenanceguy 510]

For security, a strong door is good.  A strong door in a reinforced frame with a strong multi-locking point lock is better.   But...someone determined to get in will just find an easier way in.   If the door's too strong, I'd break a window.

[ChrisJM981 924]

I think I agree on going with the solid door. I don't know if I want to pay an extra $600 for energy star rating on such a small surface area. I know a perp could break a window, but climbing through a window with broken glass everywhere takes a lot longer than breaking a window on a door and unlocking the deadbolt. I'll probably get an alarm system as well.

[checko 180]

I would skip a steel door because scratches and sidewalk salt will ultimately show up as rust and look like hell.  As far as security and battering the door down, it's never the door's fault unless it's hollow wood and you wouldn't use that on an entry door.   It's almost always the door frame that splits at the bolt.  Get long bolts and re-enforcing plates and even the cops with a battering ram will have to work really hard to get in.  A thug shoulder or foot won't get the job done..

 

As far as insulation goes, to disagree with the previous poster, steel doors can, and often do have the same U value(think R-value for doors but the numbers are inverted i.e. lower is better) of wood or fiberglass entry doors.  Definitely compare the insulation ratings and look for a low U-value.

 

Fiberglass doors are terrible fire doors, even the best ones can barely make the 20 minute mark.  Minimum ratings on wood doors usually start where fiberglass doors are finished.  Steel doors can often stand 1500+ degrees for 90 minutes+.    If you are in an area subject to occasional wildfires, it'd be an issue.  Here is Jersey it generally wouldn't be.

 

The issue I bring up isnt with the insulation INSIDE the door so much as the steel itself conducting heat and cold through its skin.  Just touch the inside face of a steel door on a cold January night.  Also, I don't know of many townships that require a fire door anywhere other than from garage to house, unless that was what you were talking about.

 

+1 for a solid or fanlight window on top of the door if you are worried about security.  Multi point locking system is also a great security feature but comes with a price.   Most manufacturers will ship it with their own and they kick the cost in.  

 

If you go for a solid 6 panel fiberglass can be had on the cheap.  We have these in stock under $200

http://www.lowes.com/pd_228472-56593-BMTTSFG1128LB_0__?productId=3041217&Ntt=6+panel+fiberglass&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D6%2Bpanel%2Bfiberglass&facetInfo=

[djg0770 481]

Most steel doors are not full steel. They're skinned on both sides with sheet metal however the sides and top of the door are wood. Wood is not a great conductor of heat. In fact, in this case, the wood is acting like a thermal break. Therefore, there's no conduction from the outside to the inside by the steel.

[Zeke 5,504]

Why not just add surface bolts top and bottom on the latch side of the door?

 

I've done this for a few of my clients.

 

Glass in the door is fine, as long as it's not of egress size.

 

Here's a rub: for security a dead bolt should be keyed both sides with a door containing glass.

For fire, it should only be keyed from the outside.

 

That's why I always suggest the bolts. Usually can't be reached if the glass is broken from outside.

[Zeke 5,504]

Typically, the only time you install a steel door in a residential app, is between the main house and attached garage. For fire.

[Zeke 5,504]

If you are installing,

Look for adjustable hinges.

Most med grade doors come with adjustable saddles nowadays.

When installing you hardware. Set the deadbolt catch so the door is forced into the weather stripping.

 

This app is going into a sun room but, for exterior app silicone the holy crap out of everything!

 

And don't forget the low expanding spray foam before interior trim is installed.

 

I've prolly installed a couple thousand doors and windows in my career, hope this helps

[CMJeepster 2,779]

...for security a dead bolt should be keyed both sides with a door containing glass...

Violates code, no? Thumb latch inside required?

[Zeke 5,504]

That info came to me from a cop.

Pass inspections, then use real life experience.

 

Yes for code you are correct.

But.......

[njJoniGuy 2,131]

Get the one with the gun port

The world is going to hell-in-a-handbasket right before our eyes