Patching drywall

[liquidskin 3]

before

 

 

After

 

 

This is my first time doing any drywall work, I wanted to get rid of an old thermostat. It looks "ok", but I'm thinking about giving it another shot because it's in such a visible location. Any tips on how to get the patched area to blend better with the wall?

[siderman 1,138]

did you use joint compound or spackle, the latter being typically much harder after curing. I'd hit it with a vibrating pad sander to even it out being careful not to upset the surrounding wallbrd. then paper thin swipes of compound and light touches of very fine sandpaper. when its ready for paint lightly dab a brush instead of swiping it to help the paint blend in with a matted finish instead of smooth and glossy. or just try the paint touch-up as is and see how you like it. another no sand option, feather the compound around the patch edge then paint.

[Scorpio64 5,163]

Filling holes is doable but I have found that cutting out problem areas and putting new drywall in works better. 

 

Check out this video.

 

[Scorpio64 5,163]

............when its ready for paint lightly dab a brush instead of swiping it to help the paint blend in with a matted finish instead of smooth and glossy. or just try the paint touch-up as is and see how you like it. another no sand option, feather the compound around the patch edge then paint.

 

That's a good point too.  Matching the texture can be a pita.

[liquidskin 3]

did you use joint compound or spackle, the latter being typically much harder after curing. I'd hit it with a vibrating pad sander to even it out being careful not to upset the surrounding wallbrd. then paper thin swipes of compound and light touches of very fine sandpaper. when its ready for paint lightly dab a brush instead of swiping it to help the paint blend in with a matted finish instead of smooth and glossy. or just try the paint touch-up as is and see how you like it. another no sand option, feather the compound around the patch edge then paint.

I used a Dap spackling kit. Went on pink and tried white. I also used a roller to apply the paint, figuring it would avoid brush strokes. Let me give it a little sanding and see what happens. Thanks!

[RecessedFilter 222]

If it's near a joist or stud, you could always cut it out and insert a new piece of drywall, spackle, sand, paint. But that is starting over and a bit more work.

 

I'd also suggest if you reapply spackle, to gently fade it as you leave the outside circumference of the 'circle'. From the second picture, it looks like you only applied spackle in the circle area so it's obvious something was there. If you "fade" the spackle outside of that circle, it will help blend it in better. Good luck!

[liquidskin 3]

If it's near a joist or stud, you could always cut it out and insert a new piece of drywall, spackle, sand, paint. But that is starting over and a bit more work.

 

I'd also suggest if you reapply spackle, to gently fade it as you leave the outside circumference of the 'circle'. From the second picture, it looks like you only applied spackle in the circle area so it's obvious something was there. If you "fade" the spackle outside of that circle, it will help blend it in better. Good luck!

Thanks I'm spackling again! Should I be priming the spackle after painting?

[Zeke 5,504]

Yes

[Handyman 5,682]

What'd you paint with? Use a high nap roller to match the texture when you do it again.

[liquidskin 3]

What'd you paint with? Use a high nap roller to match the texture when you do it again.

I believe I'm using a 3/8" nap roller. Primed this time, thanks to Zeke for the suggestion.

 

First coat of paint was dabbed with a brush, 2nd with the roller. Damnit, the top is still too high, but it's better...

 

[ted527 21]

You need to feather it out more.

Another trick when you're sanding is use a very bright light such as a halogen or led work light. Hold it at an angle to the wall and the high and low spots will jump out at you

[Zeke 5,504]

This^^^^

Your not making it flat, your trying to make it disappear.

[DeerSlayer 241]

Looks like a perfect spot to hang a picture to me!

[maintenanceguy 510]

If your repair is a slow, even hump on the wall - no problem.  It just needs to be a slow, very even, and slight hump.  Walls aren't flat - just mostly flat.

 

Getting is smooth is the easy part - matching the paint is the hard part.   If you have the original paint it's still hard to match the sheen, texture, and age.   Paint the spot with the same type (same nap) roller that was used on the original wall.  After you've painted the repair, let your roller run dry - very dry and feather out a wide area around the patch.  The almost dry roller will leave only a little paint making the old blend in more closely with the new.

 

I also used to work for a chain of hotels.  A big part of my work was getting guest rooms perfect during monthly "room preventative maintenance.  Lots of tricks to hide imperfections.  Easiest is to repaint the whole wall.  Slight color changes at corners just look like shadows.  You can also transition from the old paint to the new by intentionally making it look like a shadow.  Make your transition line from from old to new start at a corner of a door or window. Come from that point an angle across the wall and it will appear as if it's just a shadow - even if there's no reason for a shadow to be there.

[ChrisJM981 924]

I had my walls filled with spray foam. He cut holes in the wall indoors to insert the nozzle. After spending a good amount of time trying to get the paint to match I repainted.