SJG 253 Posted May 11, 2016 I want to remove and replace a rail on my AR-15. The original rail, free float, has several star type screws, not hex, located on the exterior of the rail. They are in so tight I cannot budge them. Any suggestions? I will strip the head if I apply any more force Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted May 11, 2016 Probably locktited. Take a torch and heat them for a few seconds to melt the locktite. Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GramGun79 226 Posted May 11, 2016 I want to remove and replace a rail on my AR-15. The original rail, free float, has several star type screws, not hex, located on the exterior of the rail. They are in so tight I cannot budge them. Any suggestions? I will strip the head if I apply any more force Follow Mikeyjones directions. I had the same issue with mine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,895 Posted May 11, 2016 Torx screw? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,671 Posted May 11, 2016 Put the driver in the screw and tap it with a hammer. Tap it solid. See if that loosens anything up for you. If not, use heat, applied judiciously and no longer than needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockncolts 50 Posted May 11, 2016 If you don't want to use a torch use a soldering iron and hold it on screw for a minute or so. Then try to loosen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T Bill 649 Posted May 11, 2016 Glockncolts has the right idea. Careful with that torch, too broad a heat source. Hair dryers or commercial heating irons are safer. If Blue 242 or red 271 was used need to heat to 482F and remove when hot. This should only be necessary if too much was used. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
checko 180 Posted May 11, 2016 What kind of rail is it? I've never seen anything shipped with red. And I've always been able to remove blue with hand strength. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartyZ 697 Posted May 11, 2016 I would use a heat gun, it's easy to overheat with a torch. Don't forget the hand guard is most likely aluminum not steel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Displaced Texan 11,769 Posted May 11, 2016 A good heat gun is the right answer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted May 11, 2016 Heat gun might produce enough heat. A dryer will not. If you don't go full retard with a torch, you should be ok. Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louu 399 Posted May 11, 2016 No auto mechanics in here? You need to use an impact driver This is what I'm talking about http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted May 11, 2016 No auto mechanics in here? You need to use an impact driver This is what I'm talking about http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P On a torx screw where the tightness is measured in in/lb??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted May 12, 2016 The other possibility is that it is rusted in which a sufficient application of a penetrating oil could also help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n4p226r 105 Posted May 12, 2016 Hacksaw should do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louu 399 Posted May 12, 2016 On a torx screw where the tightness is measured in in/lb??? Yes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,895 Posted May 12, 2016 No auto mechanics in here? You need to use an impact driver This is what I'm talking about http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P I use that for the Phillips screws on my brake disks... I can't imagine you would need that for torx, there should be enough contact area. Some heat and muscle should get the screw out with out stripping anything. Not to mention you need to pound on that impact driver for it to be effective. Also, I'm pretty sure the bits are of a larger then normal size. I recall them being pretty beefy. Might be hard to find a torx bit that fits into the impact wrench. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louu 399 Posted May 12, 2016 It's good for ALL screws, if you have a good one like a name brand one you don't need to hit it hard at all for it to work. Everyone makes 3/8" drive torx bit sets, even seen them at home depot. Not saying heating it won't work but if you don't heat it properly you will just soften the screws and strip them out anyway. Besides, why heat it and mess up the paint? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackDaWack 2,895 Posted May 12, 2016 Haha!wow I didnt realize there was a 3/8 drive under the socket/bit adapter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites