Extended Automobile WarrantyO

[e80hydro 120]

Occasionaly I get these post card sized notices advising me that my factory warranty has expired on my car and I should call their 1-800 # immediatly to extend my coverage. Anyone falling for this nonsense should be warned that these policies are a couple thousand dollars and these companies attempt to deny any repairs you have done. I work in the automotive field and see this crap a lot.

 

These notices resemble a recall notice that your vehicle manufacturer would send you. If you get one toss it.

[jcerillo70 16]

Remember cost on these warrenties are $1200-$1500 if you do decide to go that route though.

[Malsua 1,422]

I got an extended warranty from Subaru of America at time of purchase.

 

The _ONLY_ reason was because if the Turbo blows out, it's covered.

 

Supposed to be a bumper to bumper warranty.

 

I took it in, AC not cold. Leaking schrader valve...not covered since there were no parts. Needless to say I'm fricking still steamed about it. I understand there was a deductible but the car was BROKE and the warranty covers everything, well, except labor if they don't repair any parts. I laughed openly at the guy.

 

I said to him "So, this is a bumper to bumper warranty, given to me by a guy 50 feet from here, and you're telling me it doesn't cover this repair"

His response "Right, because it's a parts/labor issue and since there are no parts, labor isn't covered"

I said "So what would you think of a dealership that tells you one thing in the salesroom and another in the service department?"

"Here's your keys sir"

"Yeah, that's what I thought" and I laughed at him. Fücking jerkoff.

[siderman 1,138]

When we(wife!) got our 1 yr old Chrysler T&C I insisted(its a Chrysler) on a very extended warrenty, 70,000 miles worth and negotiated the price. Over that time the warrenty covered new plugs/wires(early), struts,bushings,links(twice),broken axle,engine mount, new gas tank, fuel pump and probobly a few more things I dont remember.Well we're well past that now and just waiting....

[Krdshrk 3,877]

Warranty's are overrated. You have to read the fine print. Like Malusa got hosed on. My parents did as well with their Chrysler Town & Country minivan. Can't remember what went out but it wasn't covered by their extended warranty.

 

Like in Tommy Boy - "Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time."

[joecs1 11]

I got an extended warranty from Subaru of America at time of purchase.

 

The _ONLY_ reason was because if the Turbo blows out, it's covered.

 

Supposed to be a bumper to bumper warranty.

 

I took it in, AC not cold. Leaking schrader valve...not covered since there were no parts. Needless to say I'm fricking still steamed about it. I understand there was a deductible but the car was BROKE and the warranty covers everything, well, except labor if they don't repair any parts. I laughed openly at the guy.

 

I said to him "So, this is a bumper to bumper warranty, given to me by a guy 50 feet from here, and you're telling me it doesn't cover this repair"

His response "Right, because it's a parts/labor issue and since there are no parts, labor isn't covered"

I said "So what would you think of a dealership that tells you one thing in the salesroom and another in the service department?"

"Here's your keys sir"

"Yeah, that's what I thought" and I laughed at him. Fücking jerkoff.

 

 

So you leaked freon.....which he had to replace.......If you asked to order freon, he would have to look up a part number, right? Or was the freon a figment of his immagination because it is in a can, and he could not physically see it?

[raz-0 1,259]

I'll give my advice about extended warranties.

 

1) If you are going to get one, get one from the maqnufacturer.

 

2) Do NOT buy it from the dealership at the time of sale. Period.

 

Why? Because if you are dealing with a shady high volume dealer, they may "sell" you an extended warranty, put it on the invoice as something ambiguous, and never actually file the paperwork. In short they lied to you and marked the price of your car back up $1200+. Even if they are honest, the actual manufacturer will spam you until the day your default warranty runs out trying to sell you the product honestly. For most people, this gives you a couple of years to determine if the car seems more or less problem prone. Additionally, buying later puts you at an advantage with how prorated refunds work when you start arguing with them when they eventually don't cover something.

[NJdiverTony 27]

I'll give my advice about extended warranties.

 

1) If you are going to get one, get one from the maqnufacturer.

 

2) Do NOT buy it from the dealership at the time of sale. Period.

 

Why? Because if you are dealing with a shady high volume dealer, they may "sell" you an extended warranty, put it on the invoice as something ambiguous, and never actually file the paperwork. In short they lied to you and marked the price of your car back up $1200+. Even if they are honest, the actual manufacturer will spam you until the day your default warranty runs out trying to sell you the product honestly. For most people, this gives you a couple of years to determine if the car seems more or less problem prone. Additionally, buying later puts you at an advantage with how prorated refunds work when you start arguing with them when they eventually don't cover something.

 

I don't know that I agree with you on that... I bought an extended warranty on a new Mercury Mountaineer at the time of sale a few years ago (which I still own) and it was teh best decision I made. I paid $1,300 to extend my warranty from teh standard 3 years/36,000 miles to 5 years/100,000 miles. Well after the 3 years were up, I had AC issues, a power window that wouldn't work, a driver seat heater that needed to be replaced and few other small things. All were covered under warranty and all I had to pay was a $50 deductible... Service was great and never had any issues. The cost of repairs were at least double what I paid for the warranty... so it worked out for me.

 

Does it maybe vary with each manufacturer? My extneded warranty was from Ford... so maybe other car manufacturer's are flaky with honoring their warranties? I don't know...

[JSF01 13]

I use to get phone calls from some automated system telling me the manufacturer warranty had expired act now to extend it. I would always just LOL and think to myself which vehicle are they talking about my 1984 Chevy M1009 from a time period American manufactures would probably like to pretend never happened or my 1972 Morris Mini which manufacture was bought out, merged, then bought out again. Why would this extended manufacture warrantee not be legit

[Malsua 1,422]

So you leaked freon.....which he had to replace.......If you asked to order freon, he would have to look up a part number, right? Or was the freon a figment of his immagination because it is in a can, and he could not physically see it?

 

Warranty is bumper to bumper. It covers parts and labor.

 

Valve is defective causing leak. Valve is a part, freon is not a "wear item".

 

What part of "bumper to bumper" isn't this a part of?

[tony357 386]

I purchased an extended on the cobalt 5/100,000 bumper to bumper when i purchased.

[Cylinder Head 22]

I purchased an extended warranty on my M5 before the original 3/50k ran out for another 2/ up to 100k. It was not a factory BMW warranty, but a GE warranty. Great investment, saved me from over $10,000 in repairs. Unfortunately it ran out a month before I blew the clutch on my SMG, and that repair ran up over $3,500.

 

Some cars are more of a liability out of warranty than an asset, I'm currently selling the car to an acquaintance.

[hd2000fxdl 422]

I have been fine with all the new cars I have bough with just the factory warranty, I have only had problems with 1 vehicle and that was the 02 Explorer I just got rid of this past Monday. But here is what I did to circumvent the standard Ford warranty on that vehicle. Just before I hit the mileage mark, I brought it in for a problem I knew was starting to develop. Well one thing led to another and I had to have 1 head replaced and that came with a separate warranty that got me past the standard one. All other systems were good so didn't anticipate problems and that paid off.

 

All in all it what make you feel comfortable, if you are one who likes to work on cars and trucks and can do basic service and some other items like I do it's usually cheaper over time to just take care of it your self. Another thing the keep in mind, while there are some manufactures that still make a questionable product, it is nothing like it was 20 or 30 years ago or more when if you saw a car with a 100,000 miles on it it was due for major work. These days it's really not uncommon to see vehicles that are serviced when they should be last 150,000 to over 200,000 miles or more.

 

I figure I have saved a lot of money not getting the extended warranty's and doing the work myself. I figure I have probably spent maybe 4,000-5,000 over all the years on auto repairs on my vehicles that were out of warranty and that would be on the 11 new vehicles I have purchased over the years. Now add up what Extended warranty's would have cost me on all of them.

 

Wow now that I think about it I should have more money for Guns and Ammo.

 

Harry

 

 

[raz-0 1,259]

Does it maybe vary with each manufacturer? My extended warranty was from Ford... so maybe other car manufacturer's are flaky with honoring their warranties? I don't know...

 

 

Re-read what I posted. None of it talks about teh value of teh warranty as I don't really want to argue with anyone about it's value. It's about how to go about or not go about purchasing one with a vehicle to cover your a** from deceptive sales teams and to give you teh most advantage when purchasing.

[SW9racer 262]

When I am buying a new car, already spending a big chunk of change. I add in the extended warranty then, but there are some rules I follow:

- only buy the manufacturers warranty, no third parties

- spend the little extra for no deductible option. Saves you from being nickeled later.

- negotiate the price. You can get the manufacturer warranty from any dealer. Look up the actual cost on the net, you can get it for not much over cost.

 

If you keep the car many years, it's good to know at the end of it's life you won't get hit with a big repair bill. If you sell the car, the warranty can be transferred, usually getting you more bucks as it puts the buyer at ease.

Only negative is if the car gets totaled, you can cancel the plan, but you won't get full price back.

[71ragtopgoat 23]

I bought the Honda care car warranty on my used Honda bought from a dealer(25,000 miles).It cost me $750 and the dealer threw in mud flaps and a sun roof visor. I figured Honda's never break so it was a waste of money. So far my power locks broke. Then I had to be towed last week because I could not get the shifter out of park. Then this week it happened again.The bottom line was a loaner and $400 in parts. At 94000 miles I still have 10000 left on the warranty and am just about breaking even.So it's a coin flip.The one thing I will say is they are 10 times faster and more helpful then AAA on a rainy night when you need a tow.I'd do it again depending on price.

[hd2000fxdl 422]

I bought the Honda care car warranty on my used Honda bought from a dealer(25,000 miles).It cost me $750 and the dealer threw in mud flaps and a sun roof visor. I figured Honda's never break so it was a waste of money. So far my power locks broke. Then I had to be towed last week because I could not get the shifter out of park. Then this week it happened again.The bottom line was a loaner and $400 in parts. At 94000 miles I still have 10000 left on the warranty and am just about breaking even.So it's a coin flip.The one thing I will say is they are 10 times faster and more helpful then AAA on a rainy night when you need a tow.I'd do it again depending on price.

 

Assuming it an automatic and the shifter is in the middle on the floor, you should see a small little knockout, usually less than a size of a dime. Just pull that little plug and you should see a tab you can push on with a pen or other small object that will reach. This would by-pass the P-Lockout.

 

Question, did they tell you what the problem was that caused the P gear lock out not to disengage and.or what corrective action they did?

 

At least the next time if this happens again, you know how to get it out of park and don't have to have it towed and go through that whole inconvenience.

 

Harry