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By Maksim
I get emails from Davidson's and other distributors. This week they are having a special on HK P30L in 40 S&W for $469. Assume + shipping + dealer markup.
Also seems like a deal? on M9A3.
Also, the Walther Creed is $249. This was actually a really nice gun when I got to play with it at Shot Show. Surely better than the lower end Smiths, etc.
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By PD2K
Was chatting with a buddy of mine at the range, who owns both pistols, and prefers the Walther PPQ just slightly over H&K VP9. Never shooting the H&K VP9, I was surprised by his observation due to H&K's rep. But his view was just that: people love VP9 over PPQ due to the "hype" and "rep" of H&K. Full disclosure: he is a H&K fan and loves his VP9.
Question to those who shot both: forget brand name, which do you prefer and why?
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By mikka1
(From GrabAGun promo emails)
Seems to be a Good price on P30S, all others sell it starting $800+, Buds sells it at $840 or so.
$750 + $6 shipping seems to be very tempting. If only I had permits in hand...
Heckler and Koch P30S V3 9mm DA/SA 15+1 Safety
HK P30 Semi-automatic SA-DA Full 9MM 3.85 Polymer Black 15Rd 2 Mags Fired Case Safety and Ambi Decocker 3 Dot M730903S-A5
http://grabagun.com/catalog/product/view/id/88047
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By macPSU
I'm considering picking up an HK USC 45 in the near future. In stock form, it doesn't really do a whole lot for me, but the UMP conversion is enticing. I don't think it's a very practical purchase, but I like the uniqueness and I've wanted to add a pistol caliber carbine to my collection.
Anyway, my question is if anyone here owns a UMP conversion and if so, where did you have the conversion and compliance work done? I'd rather give a local gunsmith the business if they're experienced with the conversion, rather than send it across the country. I'd need to have the USC receiver milled out a bit to accept UMP magazines, the UMP stock pinned, and magazines blocked, while maintaining 922r compliance. I'm hoping someone in NJ is familiar with and willing to handle the work.
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Posts
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We never let then inside. Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in -
I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield. Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe. https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html -
By silverado427 · Posted
The 12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the ZL1 was a all aluminum 12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam -
By maintenanceguy · Posted
I like my regular carry holster. OWB leather with belt slots. I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it. I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer. It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side. The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact. Anything insulating will make it worse. I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin. I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets. But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated. -
Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it.
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