overgassed

[BryanRT360 2]

Rifle I just built is overgassed.  Ejecting around 1:00

 

Rifle gas with 3oz buffer.    

 

I swapped in my 9mm buffer from palmetto and it was ejecting at 3:00-3:30

     I tried to find the weight on their site but no bueno.

 

 

So my question is?   

 

Adjustable gas block or an h3 buffer?  A quick search on Primary arms and the h3 is around 40and up. Same goes with the gas block.  

 

 

What say you?

 

[High Exposure 5,664]

What receiver extension are you using with your rifle length gas system?

[BryanRT360 2]

What receiver extension are you using with your rifle length gas system?

Carbine

[High Exposure 5,664]

Generally speaking, it's best to use a rifle length receiver extension with a rifle length gas system.

 

You are going to have to fiddle around with buffer and action springs.

 

My first bit of advice is to install a rifle length receiver extension, buffer and action spring. If not, I would say to try an H2 buffer with an overpowered action spring.

[SmittyMHS 603]

Along the same lines, I'm building my 1st mid-length 14.5" (w/2" comp). Do I need an adj gas block? I've only used carbine lnth barrels and extensions before.

[High Exposure 5,664]

All of my 14.5" guns are midlength gas system with carbine receiver extensions, standard carbine action springs, and H buffers.

 

No issues.

[MidwestPX 172]

Rifle length gas system = fixed/A1/A2 receiver extension.  It makes sense that it worked with your 9mm buffer as that should be 5oz or heavier while rifle buffers are 5.4-5.5oz.

[BryanRT360 2]

Generally speaking, it's best to use a rifle length receiver extension with a rifle length gas system.

 

You are going to have to fiddle around with buffer and action springs.

 

My first bit of advice is to install a rifle length receiver extension, buffer and action spring. If not, I would say to try an H2 buffer with an overpowered action spring

Thanks for the reply,  I get what you're saying.. but wouldn't it be cheaper to go with an adjustable gas block?  Only reason I'm running the light buffer is because I had it in my box.   

Rifle length gas system = fixed/A1/A2 receiver extension.  It makes sense that it worked with your 9mm buffer as that should be 5oz or heavier while rifle buffers are 5.4-5.5oz.

From what research I've done before hand(everything u read on net is gospel BTW) they say as long as u size the buffer correctly you will be OK.

 

I did find a weight for a yhm 9mm buffer. 5.0oz

 

IIRC the t3 are around 5.4oz. 

 

So I could but a heavy buffer and be done or an adjustable gas block and be done with it..

 

Of course there is that pesky pinned brake.. removing is not a problem, just the 80$ replacement

[MidwestPX 172]

Or you can try an adjustable gas key.

[High Exposure 5,664]

Anything adjustable can un-adjust. I prefer to avoid adjustable anything unless it is a last resort.

 

JP makes a clamp on adjustable gas block to prevent removal of the muzzle device. Just dremel the old block off.

 

Like I said, if you aren't going to change to the proper receive extension type, I would get an H3 buffer and overpowered spring. Messing with a gas block can cause more problems than it solves.

 

YMMV and all that.

 

Your rifle. Your choice. Good luck.

[BryanRT360 2]

Anything adjustable can un-adjust. I prefer to avoid adjustable anything unless it is a last resort.

 

JP makes a clamp on adjustable gas block to prevent removal of the muzzle device. Just dremel the old block off.

 

Like I said, if you aren't going to change to the proper receive extension type, I would get an H3 buffer and overpowered spring. Messing with a gas block can cause more problems than it solves.

 

YMMV and all that.

 

Your rifle. Your choice. Good luck.

Thanks HE. I appreciate your feedback.

[SmittyMHS 603]

All of my 14.5" guns are midlength gas system with carbine receiver extensions, standard carbine action springs, and H buffers.

 

No issues.

Great to hear!

 Thanlks

[Vlad G 345]

BTW, personally I disagree with the match gas length to buffer tube length. I find that it is not necessary and I know lots of people using rifle length gas with carbine systems.

 

However, I also find that buying barrels with properly sized gas holes is really important no matter what you are building. I share HE's general distrust of adjustable gas systems and I don't use them even on my race gun, but that is an NJ specific problem, as there are some adjustable gas systems designed with detent locks that do not go out of adjustment, but they tend to suck for NJ because of one piece designs.

[blksheep 466]

Anything adjustable can un-adjust. I prefer to avoid adjustable anything unless it is a last resort.

 

JP makes a clamp on adjustable gas block to prevent removal of the muzzle device. Just dremel the old block off.

 

Like I said, if you aren't going to change to the proper receive extension type, I would get an H3 buffer and overpowered spring. Messing with a gas block can cause more problems than it solves.

 

YMMV and all that.

 

Your rifle. Your choice. Good luck.

Just had a nightmare getting a Seekings ADJ Gas block to run properly.

[High Exposure 5,664]

BTW, personally I disagree with the match gas length to buffer tube length. I find that it is not necessary and I know lots of people using rifle length gas with carbine systems.

Agreed, it is unnecessary - unless there is an issue. Then I think it's the easiest way to solve the problem.

 

However, I also find that buying barrels with properly sized gas holes is really important no matter what you are building.

Agreed here as well. But when price of the components used is the driving force behind choosing the parts, instead of the quality of the manufacturing and QA of the parts used, you will have a hard time guaranteeing your parts will be properly spec'ed. That means you will have a hard time zeroing in on any issues you are having.

 

When people stop bragging:

"I built this AR for $400 and it is just as good as anything out there. I have 500 trouble free rounds through it before I had any issues."

 

and instead say:

"I built this AR for $1000 using the best parts available. It has been my primary training gun for three years and has 10000 trouble free rounds through it."

 

We will be making progress. [/soapbox]

 

The funny part is the $1000 gun that lasts 3 years and 10000 rounds is a way better value than the $400 gun.

[Vlad G 345]

Gotcha we are on  the same page then

[SmittyMHS 603]

Agreed, it is unnecessary - unless there is an issue. Then I think it's the easiest way to solve the problem.

 

Agreed here as well. But when price of the components used is the driving force behind choosing the parts, instead of the quality of the manufacturing and QA of the parts used, you will have a hard time guaranteeing your parts will be properly spec'ed. That means you will have a hard time zeroing in on any issues you are having.

 

When people stop bragging:

"I built this AR for $400 and it is just as good as anything out there. I have 500 trouble free rounds through it before I had any issues."

 

and instead say:

"I built this AR for $1000 using the best parts available. It has been my primary training gun for three years and has 10000 trouble free rounds through it."

 

We will be making progress. [/soapbox]

 

The funny part is the $1000 gun that lasts 3 years and 10000 rounds is a way better value than the $400 gun.

I agree 100%. But it doesn't make alotta sense to spend $1000 on a weapon that might see the range 3 or 4 times in its lifetime. So I understand when guys "cheap out" on their build. They build it,take it the range to test it out. If it hits paper fairly consistently and doesn't give them any problems, they put it in the safe, or behind their door., and call it good.

[BryanRT360 2]

BTW, personally I disagree with the match gas length to buffer tube length. I find that it is not necessary and I know lots of people using rifle length gas with carbine systems.

 

However, I also find that buying barrels with properly sized gas holes is really important no matter what you are building. I share HE's general distrust of adjustable gas systems and I don't use them even on my race gun, but that is an NJ specific problem, as there are some adjustable gas systems designed with detent locks that do not go out of adjustment, but they tend to suck for NJ because of one piece designs.

This was my thought process as well. I figured the light buffer may be an issue but it was a left over and you got to start somewhere.at least I know what to do now and what not to. 

[High Exposure 5,664]

I agree 100%. But it doesn't make alotta sense to spend $1000 on a weapon that might see the range 3 or 4 times in its lifetime. So I understand when guys "cheap out" on their build. They build it,take it the range to test it out. If it hits paper fairly consistently and doesn't give them any problems, they put it in the safe, or behind their door., and call it good.

Yup, all good. But, don't be shocked and appalled if you have issues with your budget build. The budget parts are budget parts for a reason.

 

I also agree that the person who puts 100 rounds a year through an AR doesn't need a $1000 gun.

 

But...

 

They may end up spending more than $1000 over the years keeping that $500 gun running and eliminating issues that keep popping up. Where the $1000 gun would have continued working.

 

I found this out when I bought my first AR - a Bushmaster XM-15 in 2003 that I got brand new for $600. I still have that rifle, kind of. The only part left that is original Bushmaster is the lower receiver. Every other part has been swapped out with quality reliable parts that cost more. Overall, I spent well over the original $600 I paid and, more importantly, well over the cost of the Colt that was $800 that I turned down as "too expensive". If I would have spent that extra $200 to begin with I would have not had to spend another $600 getting the cheaper rifle to run reliably.

 

There is a huge difference between lowest price and best value. But once, cry once and get it over with.

 

Oh. And OP, I am not staying that is what is happening here. I have no idea what parts you used to build your rifle. It is just an observation I have made over the years after troubleshooting many peoples guns - and noting the guns that don't need to be troubleshooted repeatedly because they work.

[BryanRT360 2]

Yup, all good. But, don't be shocked and appalled if you have issues with your budget build. The budget parts are budget parts for a reason.

 

I also agree that the person who puts 100 rounds a year through an AR doesn't need a $1000 gun.

 

But...

 

They may end up spending more than $1000 over the years keeping that $500 gun running and eliminating issues that keep popping up. Where the $1000 gun would have continued working

I found this out when I bought my first AR - a Bushmaster XM-15 in 2003 that I got brand new for $600. I still have that rifle, kind of. The only part left that is original Bushmaster is the lower receiver. Every other part has been swapped out with quality reliable parts that cost more. Overall, I spent well over the original $600 I paid and, more importantly, well over the cost of the Colt that was $800 that I turned down as "too expensive". If I would have spent that extra $200 to begin with I would have not had to spend another $600 getting the cheaper rifle to run reliably.

 

There is a huge difference between lowest price and best value. But once, cry once and get it over with.

 

Oh. And OP, I am not staying that is what is happening here. I have no idea what parts you used to build your rifle. It is just an observation I have made over the years after troubleshooting many peoples guns - and noting the guns that don't need to be troubleshooted repeatedly because they work.

Yes I understand. Unfortunately this wasn't budget.   

 

Aero gen 2 lower

Aero m4e1 upper

Black rain ordnance nickel boron BCG

300$ Faxon barrel

15" free float

SD3g trigger group

SI enhanced parts kit.

 

I did cheap out on the extension and buffer as those were left overs from another build. Lol figures.

[n4p226r 105]

you could always try an a5 receiver extension if you want to keep your carbine stock.  BCM makes the extensions now in addition to vltor.  get a vltor buffer and a rifle length spring

[JohnnyB 4,326]

I went with a Spikes H2 buffer and Sprinco heavy spring (Blue). Worked for carbine.

[Vlad G 345]

I'll add this advice: If a gun is overgassed, I do think that the correct solution is fixing the gas problem  and not fixing the ejection problem with a heavier buffer. Sure, you can fix the ejection pattern but that doesn't fix the issue of too much gas passing through the system.

 

I would call faxon and ask them if they could take the barrel back and replace it. If you have the means I would measure the diameter of the gas port, ideally with pin gauges but who the hell really has those lying around the house? A good set of drill bits in the appropriate sizes could act as a pin gauge set.

 

Failing that I would add an adjustable gas block, despite other concerns about them.

 

You can make the rifle eject in some specific spot by playing with recoil components but that is treating the symptoms not the disease.

[BryanRT360 2]

I'll add this advice: If a gun is overgassed, I do think that the correct solution is fixing the gas problem  and not fixing the ejection problem with a heavier buffer. Sure, you can fix the ejection pattern but that doesn't fix the issue of too much gas passing through the system.

 

I would call faxon and ask them if they could take the barrel back and replace it. If you have the means I would measure the diameter of the gas port, ideally with pin gauges but who the hell really has those lying around the house? A good set of drill bits in the appropriate sizes could act as a pin gauge set.

 

Failing that I would add an adjustable gas block, despite other concerns about them.

 

You can make the rifle eject in some specific spot by playing with recoil components but that is treating the symptoms not the disease.

At this point one would assume the gas port is correct size.  Let's say I went with the rifle gas extension/ buffer setup and the ejection pattern was off, than I would think it was a problem with the gas port?  

[n4p226r 105]

the only way to know for sure how it was overgassed would be to measure it with a pin gauge.    secondary to that would be to ask the manufacturer their gas port spec.   

 

the truth is, its an AR, it's definitely overagassed.  the question is, how much and compared to what.  i still say a rifle extension or a5 kit would be the best bet if its within "spec"

[n4p226r 105]

I'll add this advice: If a gun is overgassed, I do think that the correct solution is fixing the gas problem  and not fixing the ejection problem with a heavier buffer. Sure, you can fix the ejection pattern but that doesn't fix the issue of too much gas passing through the system.

 

I would call faxon and ask them if they could take the barrel back and replace it. If you have the means I would measure the diameter of the gas port, ideally with pin gauges but who the hell really has those lying around the house? A good set of drill bits in the appropriate sizes could act as a pin gauge set.

 

Failing that I would add an adjustable gas block, despite other concerns about them.

 

You can make the rifle eject in some specific spot by playing with recoil components but that is treating the symptoms not the disease.

i keep meaning to get a good set of pin gauges.  they aren't terribly expensive.  i'll definitely be getting a set before i order another barrel.  

[High Exposure 5,664]

A lot of companies purposefully oversize their gas ports to ensure reliable function with crappy ammo. This is especially true with boutique and hobby barrels.

[Vlad G 345]

A lot of companies purposefully oversize their gas ports to ensure reliable function with crappy ammo. This is especially true with boutique and hobby barrels.

 

Well and lots of the same type of companies undersized their ports to avoid this exact problem