Jump to content
302w

School me on welders

Recommended Posts

I'm in the market for a small arc welder. I bought a 1965 Mustang that needs some holes patched in the floor along with eventually a patch in the 1/4 panel. I haven't welded in years, and even when I did I was mediocre at best so I'll likely have one of my friends weld the quarter panel when I decide to do it.

 

That being said, I know very little about welders. I would like a 120v arc/stick welder because I only have 120v outlets and I was terrible with the wire welders in school. I'm only welding steel and I can't see myself welding more than 1/4" ever. 

 

Would something like the cheapo special Harbor Freight welders work for me? I don't see why I would need anything more than that for a car or truck. I'm never going to weld aluminum, frames or driveshafts or anything of the sort.

 

The thickest I would ever weld would be the axletubes of a Ford 8.8", in which case I could have someone else weld it.

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small Mig made by Lincoln from Home Depot. I have a 240v model and use an external tank, works great. Never did anything over 3/16 steel. No way would I want to stick weld again. Have torch welded too, but I'll take my Mig any day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would seriously look at flux core or mig.

 

Both are wire fed meaning that it's kinda point and shoot. Touch the wire to the surface, squeeze the trigger, and when you're done, stop. Much easier than stick and for patching holes on thin steel a bit more controllable. HF or Depot/Lowe's should have something that will work for you.

 

C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Miller!!! you can get a small 120v MIG welder for a reasonable price. Miller is made in the USA and has a lifetime no questions asked warrantee. Stick welders are not recommended for auto body and you would likely destroy a quarter panel if you attempted to weld it on with a stick welder. If you get a 120v MIG and want some lessons your welcome to bring it by my place and I can teach you.  I am an ICAR certified welder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still a novice, but I believe the inexpensive stick welders are all 220.  You can get an old tombstone-style AC or AC/DC arc welder for cheap, but you'll need the juice to run it.  On the mig side of things, I think some of the best deals out there are Hobart Handler wire-feed welders from Tractor Supply.  They run on a 115v outlet and come set up with flux-core wire, but also include a regulator if you ever want to add gas and do some mig welding.  

 

 

Edit:  Numbers.  Not enough coffee today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a couple of bigger welders in our shop but we do have a small, 110V lincoln mig welder.  It's fine for work outside of the shop and we often use it when we can't get something to the welding bench in the shop.  Miller makes better products but for occasional use, Lincoln is fine.

 

I would really suggest a mig welder instead of a stick welder. I can weld both ways.  Mig welders - once you spend the hour to get comfortable with them - will do a much nicer job and are really convenient.  

 

It's also much harder to weld thin material with a stick welder.  If you're going to weld heavy steel - go with a stick welder.  If most of your welding will be on steel under 1/4" thick, I prefer a mig welder.

 

About the harbor freight welders - sorry no experience with them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys... I appreciate the input but I hate mig welders. I don't mean to be "that" guy that asks advice then tells everyone no, but I've never had luck with the things. I realize that they are vastly superior to stick welding, but I never had success with them. I know how easy it is to burn through sheet metal with an arc welder, and that a mig would be a better choice. 

 

Also.... I forgot to mention that I'm cheap. I would love to buy a Miller but it's out of my budget for now. Looking for under $150. 

 

I would like an honest opinion on one of these below. What I'm most curious about is roughly how thick I can weld. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/70-amp-arc-welder-68888.html

 

Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys... I appreciate the input but I hate mig welders. I don't mean to be "that" guy that asks advice then tells everyone no, but I've never had luck with the things. I realize that they are vastly superior to stick welding, but I never had success with them. I know how easy it is to burn through sheet metal with an arc welder, and that a mig would be a better choice. 

 

Also.... I forgot to mention that I'm cheap. I would love to buy a Miller but it's out of my budget for now. Looking for under $150. 

 

I would like an honest opinion on one of these below. What I'm most curious about is roughly how thick I can weld. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/70-amp-arc-welder-68888.html

 

Thanks again.

You can weld as thick a plate as you want. Just takes multiple passes the thicker the plate..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally speaking Stick welders are considered Arc Welder and vice versa.  There are two types of Arc (Stick) welders. First is AC which it good for flat and horizontal only but out of position is possible but takes some practice and isn’t going to be pretty or x-ray quality. You will rarely see AC only welders now days, most folks have AC/DC welders. AC/DC Arc welders are more common and used for out of position welding. For just filling holes in light gauge stuff that you will grind off the Mig outfit from Harbor would could do it for you but Harbor Fright tools are hit or miss...  If you are going weld for ¼ inch or bigger you probably want some capability of doing at least 125 amps or more because you could dial it back for the smaller stuff. IMO Mig outfits are probably easiest to learn for the novice welder.  Half the battle with getting a good bead laid down is having clean base metal and correct heat setting. Remember with Mig the stick-out (length from nozzle to the puddle) impacts the heat setting so you want to keep be consistent with that distance. I no longer do it for a living but I’ve done Tig, Mig, Innershield and Stick. Stick is and always will be my favorite process

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True Blue Miller! You can get a basic millermatic 140 auto set pretty cheap. Check out cyberweld.com they are located here in Jersey and have pretty good prices and service.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck doing light sheet metal with a stick welder. IMO Mig or TIG is the best way to go. Not saying it can't be done but it's extremely difficult with stick without burning through the thin sheet.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welding light sheet metal with anything is difficult without a lot of practice.  Continuous practice.  I have a very large and very high end Miller MIG welder with an aluminum spool gun, and although I've been good in the past, it takes me a few hours of practice to get good enough again anytime I need to weld something.

 

Welding light sheet metal with a stick welder is a punishment they deal out in hell, I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would like an honest opinion on one of these below. What I'm most curious about is roughly how thick I can weld. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/arc-welders/70-amp-arc-welder-68888.html

 

Thanks again.

 

I would be comfortable with 3/16" steel if all I had was 70A.  I want a little more for 1/4" steel.    The welder says it has a 20% duty cycle.  That means 1 minute on and 4 minutes off. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True Blue Miller! You can get a basic millermatic 140 auto set pretty cheap. Check out cyberweld.com they are located here in Jersey and have pretty good prices and service.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

Dude.... What do you consider cheap? The cheapest on that website is $750. I don't need the Snap-On of Welders when I'm going to use this once every three years. I buy brand name on stuff I use often, or I have a genuine need for. I have absolutely NO need for an expensive welder. I would love a quality Miller welder along with an auto tinting mask, and a lathe, and a Bridgeport mill but I can't afford this stuff. 

 

 

Guys, he is stuck on getting a stick welder to patch light sheetmetal on cars. Welder for sale cheap if we are patient....

 

Real men don't sell tools, unless they drive a tool truck.

 

 

IMO nHow about a gas welder?

 

Gas welder as in an argon tank hooked up to a welder, or using an oxy-acetylene tank? I don't feel like getting the tanks, but I do love using them. For some reason I really enjoy brazing and I have a lot of experience with it. 

 

 

Pics?

 

I picked it up Saturday, and got it off of the trailer today but could only mess around with it for two hours and mostly just ripped out nasty carpeting. I'll get better pics and start a thread soon. 

 

20140201_155845_zpsac51d9df.jpg

 

20140202_120827_zpsd6929b6d.jpg

 

20140202_124116_zps8449b8dd.jpg

 

The floors on this thing are surprisingly good. The passenger floor is near spotless and the drivers side is something I would not consider major. Underneath the car has light surface rust, but nothing bad that I can see. Frame rails are kosher too which is always a plus. The quarter panel rot in the pic is the worst part of the car and shouldn't be much of a patch job. Only bondo I can see is the front fenders, and probably the back window (can't see it, but I suspect it. Haven't tried a magnet). 

 

I wasn't in the market for a car, but I got a offer I couldn't refuse. I could easily sell it right now for a good deal more than what I paid for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I forgot to add, I may consider a HF mig although I REALLY don't want one. I'll post the one I'm looking at below. Secondly, I realize that the floors look kinda crappy in the pic, but thats mostly crud sitting on them. Except for the obvious holes they are pretty solid and I can get away with patching. 

 

Edit: Forgot the links

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887-8494.html

 

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg%3B-125-amp-mig-fluxcore-welder

 

The HFT welder is about $90 (112 plus the famous HFT 20% coupon), 90 amp, 3/16 maximum diameter. The TSC is $130, 125 amp, 3/16 maximum diameter as well and same duty cycle. The TSC is probably a better welder although they're all low end chinese. 

 

I would assume more aperage=better at welding thick stuff, so the TSC welder welds 3/16 easy and HFT welds 3/16 like a dog. Home depot has a nice 1/4" rated one but its about $180 and out of budget. 

 

I know you all will suggest I get a better welder, but I want a Hi-Point, not a Glock or S&W or Colt. I will almost never use this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude.... What do you consider cheap? The cheapest on that website is $750. I don't need the Snap-On of Welders when I'm going to use this once every three years. I buy brand name on stuff I use often, or I have a genuine need for. I have absolutely NO need for an expensive welder. I would love a quality Miller welder along with an auto tinting mask, and a lathe, and a Bridgeport mill but I can't afford this stuff. 

 

 

 

Real men don't sell tools, unless they drive a tool truck.

 

 

 

Gas welder as in an argon tank hooked up to a welder, or using an oxy-acetylene tank? I don't feel like getting the tanks, but I do love using them. For some reason I really enjoy brazing and I have a lot of experience with it. 

 

 

 

I picked it up Saturday, and got it off of the trailer today but could only mess around with it for two hours and mostly just ripped out nasty carpeting. I'll get better pics and start a thread soon. 

 

20140201_155845_zpsac51d9df.jpg

 

20140202_120827_zpsd6929b6d.jpg

 

20140202_124116_zps8449b8dd.jpg

 

The floors on this thing are surprisingly good. The passenger floor is near spotless and the drivers side is something I would not consider major. Underneath the car has light surface rust, but nothing bad that I can see. Frame rails are kosher too which is always a plus. The quarter panel rot in the pic is the worst part of the car and shouldn't be much of a patch job. Only bondo I can see is the front fenders, and probably the back window (can't see it, but I suspect it. Haven't tried a magnet). 

 

I wasn't in the market for a car, but I got a offer I couldn't refuse. I could easily sell it right now for a good deal more than what I paid for it.

Let me know if you need any parts for the restoration - I have a garage full of the small stuff and know where to get whatever you need.  The Mustang is one of the few cars you can buy brand new one piece at a time (though not all the pieces fit like they should).  The 65/66 are the easiest to customize too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...