Gun oil substitutes

[Eric. 9]

Yay I win.

 

Look, objectively I agree that lubes are lubes and they all work, you could probably run your guns on bacon fat. Motor oil is just peachy for certain applications, and I actually use it myself on guns, particularly piston actuated shotguns where I find it to be really perfect.

 

I also agree that if you take the religious like attachment to weapons maintenance that some branches of the military embrace, then again it doesn't matter because if you keep cleaning it and keep lubing it all the damn time, who cares how well the oil stays on or wears.

 

However if you are like me, and I'm well aware there are lots of people who are not me, I don't like to spend too much time cleaning my guns or oiling them or checking them for the right degree of dirt in suspension. I like to maybe clean my guns every 1000rd or so, with one or two applications of a couple of drops of lube in between. And I like them to still work, and I found that motor oil doesn't work for that. It doesn't stay in place, it sprays out of the gun more then I'd like, it drains out of the gun if left in the safe for too long etc. There are other products our there that do not do that and are better suited for gun related applications.

OMG, lolol..

[302w 83]

I like LSA

[Vlad G 345]

OMG, lolol..

 

OMG you are so right you have convinced me with your articulate and detailed response,

[raz-0 1,259]

It is a great comparison because oil attracts dust and dirt while frog lube will not

I have frog lube. The paste absolutely sucks. The liquid is better at being a lube, but a horrible protectant. If small particles don't stick, that's because the lube is gone. It's a viscous liquid things will stick to it. Neither format is appropriate for longer storage.

[Guest]

I have frog lube. The paste absolutely sucks. The liquid is better at being a lube, but a horrible protectant. If small particles don't stick, that's because the lube is gone. It's a viscous liquid things will stick to it. Neither format is appropriate for longer storage.

 

 

If you can see it or smear it around on the gun, you're using too much.

[raz-0 1,259]

If you can see it or smear it around on the gun, you're using too much.

Really, because I have guns that specify more than seeing it specifically for certain parts. Some that even require it laid on pretty thick.

 

If it's lubricating, there needs to be a film. That film may be thin, but it's always capable of being smeared.

 

But put on a coating of frog lube and drop it in something fine and dusty 5 minutes later it'll stick.

[mipafox 438]

I lube the crap out of my guns. This aint Iraq or any other country that Barak surrendered to.

 

Obviously there are parts you should NOT lube.

[Schrödinger's cat 87]

So how often should I clean and lube a gun that hasn't been fired in a while ?

Also I just use Hoppes 9 and Rem oil. Anyone else still use that ?

[DSD1026 48]

So how often should I clean and lube a gun that hasn't been fired in a while ?

Also I just use Hoppes 9 and Rem oil. Anyone else still use that ?

nothing wrong with hoppes and rem oil if thats what you use..

 

now..  "hasnt been fired in a while" is subjective..  1 month?  6 months?   6 years?  

 

that said - if you cleaned & lubed it before putting it away, if its been a year since you last shot it, probably good to run a little bit of add'l lube on it before shooting to make sure it hasnt run off..  otherwise, re-cleaning isnt really necessary as long as it was stored properly.  (i.e. no rust, etc)..  just my 2¢..  others may feel different (as im sure they will since no one ever agrees on NJGF..  heh)

[oldguysrule649 397]

I always enjoy reading gun cleaning threads. Must have something to do with me taking care of my toys as a child. It has carried through to adulthood. (:-)

 

I primarily use Hoppes #9 as a solvent, followed by Hoppes Synthetic gun oil for lubrication. If cleaning inside my home when my garage is too cold, then I use Ballistol instead due to the strong smell of Hoppes.

 

A much greater risk, imho, is that of rust forming inside a gunsafe if humidity is not properly controlled. My 40 year old bolt action rifle spent five years at a time in a closet. Never a spot of rust. When I stored its bolt in a standard fire proof safe, developed a light coating of rust after only 3 months.

 

Regards

[Zeke 5,504]

I always enjoy reading gun cleaning threads. Must have something to do with me taking care of my toys as a child. It has carried through to adulthood. (:-)

 

I primarily use Hoppes #9 as a solvent, followed by Hoppes Synthetic gun oil for lubrication. If cleaning inside my home when my garage is too cold, then I use Ballistol instead due to the strong smell of Hoppes.

 

A much greater risk, imho, is that of rust forming inside a gunsafe if humidity is not properly controlled. My 40 year old bolt action rifle spent five years at a time in a closet. Never a spot of rust. When I stored its bolt in a standard fire proof safe, developed a light coating of rust after only 3 months.

 

Regards

Same,

Balistol mostly. It's not a great initial cleaner. Still have hoppes.

 

I think the biggest thing is clean and lube often.

With, whatever floats your boat.

[Schrödinger's cat 87]

I like the smell of Hoppes.

[Parker 213]

Periodic cleaning and lubrication is preferential versus the alternative of nothing.

 

There is a good term used in one of the articles I listed below with respect to firearm lubrication. It's referred to as "maintenance competence."

 

• An old article I pass along whenever I see this topic: http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
• Another fun read, dating back to the days of bear grease and sperm oil as lubricants: http://www.cherrybalmz.com/#!history-of-gun-lubricants/cfze

[Bellasdaddy 31]

I may be mistaken but Militec 1 makes little bottles for firearms and big bottle for engines. Same stuff. I've only used it on firearms and it seems pretty good.

[mipafox 438]

I like the smell of Hoppes.

It beats the pants off of Hippies.

[Schrödinger's cat 87]

It beats the pants off of Hippies.

Ha ! I wouldn't have understood that until I heard someone pronounce it about a year ago. I used to call it hops.

[PD2K 115]

IMHO lubricants marketed specifically for guns are an overpriced scam. What I use are:

 

Gun Oil

Synthetic engine oil

 

Gun Grease

High temperature wheel bearing grease

 

This works for me. If you like spending more money, knock yourself out.

[mipafox 438]

Ha ! I wouldn't have understood that until I heard someone pronounce it about a year ago. I used to call it hops.

 

Me, too. For like 20 years LOL.

[Eric. 9]

I may be mistaken but Militec 1 makes little bottles for firearms and big bottle for engines. Same stuff. I've only used it on firearms and it seems pretty good.

Same formula/blend.  You're not mistaken (unless you talk to Vlad G).

[Eric. 9]

IMHO lubricants marketed specifically for guns are an overpriced scam. What I use are:

 

Gun Oil

Synthetic engine oil

 

Gun Grease

High temperature wheel bearing grease

 

This works for me. If you like spending more money, knock yourself out.

Me too, as well as many others.

 

Why?  My guess is that since a gun and car engines are highly similar in lubrication needs and conditions, it only makes sense.  

 

With gun lubes, its possible that there may be some immaterial additional additives like dye, fragrance or a tiny bit more detergent, but I can almost guarantee you the base composition came from a certain group of refiners.  The same refiners that sell primarily to the car industry being that the car industry is a big multiple larger (money-wise) than the gun industry.

 

Its the same shit (don't tell Vlad G).

[Vlad G 345]

Prove it. Are you guessing or do you have chemical analysts to prove it? The internet is all pissed off at times about proving that all sorts of gun oil is vegetable oil, you say otherwise?

 

Also, because you are clearly an expert, please tell me what the maximum PSI inside a engine and what is the maximum PSI inside a firearm.  While are at it please document what are the tolerances for fitting engine components and those for fitting gun parts.

See you state a lot assumptions, such as engines and guns are similar, but you don't actually back that up with any data. Until you do, your opinion is just that, an opinion, just like mine.

 

Also, militec-1 is kinda shit in my experience, perhaps you are right and it is nothing but motor oil.

 

 

Also, dear forum stalker, I still have a bunch of questions waiting on you to answer to explain why you hold the beliefs you hold. Until you answer them, you are just running your mouth. I'm willing to back my statements with my experience and experiments on the subject, would you please be so kind to tell me what you have tried as I've asked earlier?

[Eric. 9]

Prove it. Are you guessing or do you have chemical analysts to prove it? The internet is all pissed off at times about proving that all sorts of gun oil is vegetable oil, you say otherwise?

 

Also, because you are clearly an expert, please tell me what the maximum PSI inside a engine and what is the maximum PSI inside a firearm. While are at it please document what are the tolerances for fitting engine components and those for fitting gun parts.

See you state a lot assumptions, such as engines and guns are similar, but you don't actually back that up with any data. Until you do, your opinion is just that, an opinion, just like mine.

 

Also, militec-1 is kinda shit in my experience, perhaps you are right and it is nothing but motor oil.

 

 

Also, dear forum stalker, I still have a bunch of questions waiting on you to answer to explain why you hold the beliefs you hold. Until you answer them, you are just running your mouth. I'm willing to back my statements with my experience and experiments on the subject, would you please be so kind to tell me what you have tried as I've asked earlier?

This guy is great(!)

 

You constantly demand that i provide detailed, scientific case studies, yet... you always use "your experience" as all the proof you need, for your opinions.

 

I guess Vlad is just gonna Vlad.

[Vlad G 345]

Hello Forum Stalker, I think so too, but then again who thinks of themselves as being not great, right?

 

So any answers to those questions, or are you still talking about stuff you aren't willing to back up with any data?

 

PS: I can plays this game for some time. Bring it.

[Zeke 5,504]

http://www.castpics.net/subsite/Lube/SlickTest.html

[raz-0 1,259]

 

Periodic cleaning and lubrication is preferential versus the alternative of nothing.

 

There is a good term used in one of the articles I listed below with respect to firearm lubrication. It's referred to as "maintenance competence."

 

• An old article I pass along whenever I see this topic: http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
• Another fun read, dating back to the days of bear grease and sperm oil as lubricants: http://www.cherrybalmz.com/#!history-of-gun-lubricants/cfze

 

 

 

Not bad articles. I generally concur that most oils work as lube. IMO the real issues to judge oils on are 1) do they run off or dry up quickly. 2) How are they as a protectant, because the world is full of moisture and salts. 3) Do they leave any non-lubricious residue as they dry up. 

 

I don't bother much with CLPs and more and use a separate C and try to find a decent LP. Nothing is perfect. Mostly I only gripe about things that are really shitty about being a P, or have a really short life before they cease being an L, or they leave a mechanically troublesome residue. 

 

Froglube paste has an increadibly short life before going poof and is HORRIBLE as a P. 

Froglube liquid is middle of the road as an L or P, I jsut think the price is unreasonable for the performance. 

I got a free sample of militec-1, it seemed ot actively cause corrosion and didn't last long. 

Boeshield T-9 is a decent P, and a marginal L until it dries out. Then it can get gummy, and I have had it cause safety issues when it managed to get into the FCG parts of a 1911. 

 

AS for maintenance competence, do you mean maintenance of competence? Which is a process thing, and frankly for stripping and cleaning a gun isn't that hard to keep competent at unless you have a huge variety to your collection. 

 

 

As for being competent at maintenance, that doesn't mean you need to clean it every use. You need to know your service interval. If you don't shoot much, you have to guess at something, and every time works.. usually. 

[Blacksmythe 71]

Bearing grease. Rem Oil??

[GRIZ 3,369]

I use old Breakfree with PTFE as a lubricant and protectorant. I've cleaned guns a couple of years ago, the vehicle evaporated but the Teflon was still there. The guns ran 100% even though they were lubed a couple of years ago. I bought a couple of gallons of Breakfree 10-15 years ago for like $35 a gallon. Doesn't work well as a cleaner IMO but Ls and Ps well.

 

I use Hoppes #9 or old GI borecleaner. Still have a gallon of the GI stuff. Either will work cleaning up after corrosive ammo. Still start with water when I shoot that.

 

I use Mobil One grease on Garands. I like the fact it's red so I know if I'm looking at grease or other gunk. It also doesn't harden over time. Grease up that Garand and it's ready to go a year or two later.

 

Although it's old technology and doesn't clean as well and thin as a lubricant, G96 is also a good CLP for a quick clean.

[silverado427 10,747]

  For cleaning i use 50/50 hoppes / kroil on hand guns and ar barrels, For lube on hand guns i use tetra grease on the rails and  rem or whatever gun oil i have around. However are you ready for this I use Fire clean on my BCG s. Save the speech's Its never gummed up and it stays in place. I didn't like it on my hand guns.

[AVB-AMG 530]

I clean my hand guns, rifle and shotgun after every use on the range. Not just because it is a good habit to have, but I find that the process is actually quite satisfying, providing sort of a therapeutic and relaxing aftermath to the focused concentration of aiming and shooting at targets at the range, in my constant quest to improve my accuracy. Some additional benefits in doing this are that I have a better understanding and appreciation of how each gun is put together and operates, as well as being able to see the effects of shooting different types of ammo through my guns and obviously preventing the buildup of carbon and metal deposits in the bore and inside the body of the firearm that could lead to fouling and failures.

 

My approach includes “old school” cleaning process and tools, combined with “new school” technology, utilizing the most current advancements in chemical cleaning products, all made in America.

 

Old School:
1. Pour myself a nice cold beer (summer) or scotch (winter), as a primer and play some relaxing music to set the right mood.
2. Lay out my padded mats then cover them with paper towels to absorb drips of the solutions.
3. Clear, safety check and disassemble my firearm.

 

New School:
4. I prefer to use separate chemicals to clean and lubricate my guns, instead of using one product that claims to do both, (i.e. Ballistol multi-use spray or Break Free CLP).  I find it hard to believe that one product will do as good a job of cleaning, lubricating and protecting all parts of a firearm, as compared to different products that are formulated to do one specific task and do it really well.

 

5. Therefore, I use the non-toxic, odorless M-Pro 7 product line exclusively, using their specific products for each task, (http://www.mpro7.com/), as well as Mil-Comm Products for gun grease. (https://www.mil-comm.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=5).  I found M-Pro 7 to be very appealing since they use a unique blend of modern chemical technologies containing corrosion inhibitors and surfactants with a non-toxic solvent base to provide superior cleaning without the intense smell of other cleaners.  I use brass brushes, cotton patches as well as bore snakes in tandem, treated with the appropriate cleaning solution, then lubricating oil.

 

6. After I finish cleaning and lubricating the handguns or rifle, I wipe any excess lubricant off with a silicone treated 100% cotton cloth to remove fingerprints and impart a light protective coating of silicone on the metal parts.

 

7. Mil-Comm Products’ TW25B Synthetic Grease - When I bought my Sig Sauer P226 MK-25 it came with a small tube of gun grease, which Sig Sauer recommends highly, especially for the metal-to-metal sliding surfaces, such as racking the slide, etc. That grease is the American-made Mil-Comm Products’ TW25B Synthetic Grease. It has proven to have exceptional lubricating performance in adverse weather conditions which has made it the preferred gun grease used by US and European Military. I like the fact that once applied, this grease does not migrate or seep around to other areas of the gun, specifically the exterior of the gun, the way more viscous gun oil tends to do. The plastic, re-closable tapered tip is useful for applying a small drop or bead to specific or hard to reach areas. I use this grease for lubricating the rails of the slide & frame, whether it is metal-to-metal or metal-to-polymer, on all of my handguns, as well as on the receiver and barrel hinge pin of my O/U shotgun and the threads of the chokes.

 

8. For the finishing touches on my shotgun, instead of using the silicone treated gun cloth to remove fingerprints and apply a light protective coatings, I use the separately packaged cloth wipes treated with Ballistol Cleaner Preservative Lubricant, since this seems to work better on the steel barrel on my O/U shotgun than the silicone rag and I do not have the noticeably strong odor of spraying the Ballistol aerosol in my house.

 

AVB-AMG

[PeteF 1,044]

Clean: mpro7

Lube: Tw25. Provided by manufacturer. They know more than I do.

Surface protectant: wipe down with clp.