Jump to content
jm1827

An alternator question.

Recommended Posts

My daughter just recently moved to Richmond VA after graduating college.  She called me last week to tell me that her car wouldn't start, and she thought it was the battery.  Of course, she didn't leave any of the lights on or anything like that (had to take her word),

I told her to get a jump and if it starts take it to the local Midas and if needed get a new battery.  She went to Midas, and they told her she needed a new alternator, and it would cost her at least $1000.

I told her to hold off and I would check myself.  After she got the jump start, she drove the car for a week back and forth to work with no issues. She works nights, so she drove home every night with the lights on, a 10-minute drive but lights on, nonetheless.

When I met her this weekend, I first tested the battery with the car off, got 12.3V.  With the car running I got 13.9V.   To me, this points to a good alternator and a weakening battery since it was below 12.6V under no load.

Was the dealer trying to scam a 22-year-old girl or could the alternator still be bad?  I drove the car from VA back to NJ with no issues. 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, jm1827 said:

My daughter just recently moved to Richmond VA after graduating college.  She called me l she needed a new alternator, and it would cost her at least $1000.

I drove the car from VA back to NJ with no issues. 

 

A $1000 "at least" for an alternator?!  :fie:

What kind of car is this? How old is the battery? 

VA to NJ with a non functioning alternator? You would've stalled out in an hour or less. 

  • Agree 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Bomber said:

An $1000 "at least" for an alternator?!  :fie:

What kind of car is this? How old is the battery? 

VA to NJ with non functioning alternator? You would stalled out in an hour or less. 

2013 Mazda 3, battery is probably 4-5 years old. 

Yep, VA to NJ plus back and forth to work for a week.  

14 minutes ago, JackDaWack said:

Those chain shops overcharge to the point of robbery. 

Probably a bad battery, if you get 13.9v at idle. 

Yes- 13.9v at idol. I am thinking bad battery or... my lovely daughter left a light or something on in the car. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you charge the battery with a trickle charger?  Maybe over a weekend?

Could have been a loose battery cable?  I thought my batter was dead earlier this year.  Went out, didn't start.  Popped the hood and moved the battery cable a little.  Fired right up.  Tightened down the battery cable.

Tell your daughter to start askeing friends and co-workers for some suggestions for honest mechanics.  Many not too honest places out there.  Almost same exact thing happened to my wife about two years ago.  She stopped to get gas at a local place.  Her vehicle wouldn't start back up.  There was a garage attached to the gas station  Told her it was "probably the alternator" and would probably be close to $1k.  She drove it to a mechanic friend.  It was the battery.  No problems starting since it was replaced.

If she needs a battery, tell her to go to Walmart and buy it herself and put it in herself or have a friend help her.  Or if she's a Costco or BJ's member to check their prices.  They are usually more reasonable and will intall it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, GRIZ said:

I normally buy a new battery after 4 years.  No failures, no problems.

Just sayin'

This.  Just did all 3 vehicles batteries over the last few months.  None of the batteries were older than 5 years.  They don't make 'em like the used to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, GRIZ said:

I normally buy a new battery after 4 years.  No failures, no problems.

Just sayin'

I agree, I think I will just change her battery, and if the alternator is still outputting 13.9V at idol, we should be good to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/16/2022 at 5:36 PM, jm1827 said:

My daughter just recently moved to Richmond VA after graduating college.  She called me last week to tell me that her car wouldn't start, and she thought it was the battery.  Of course, she didn't leave any of the lights on or anything like that (had to take her word),

I told her to get a jump and if it starts take it to the local Midas and if needed get a new battery.  She went to Midas, and they told her she needed a new alternator, and it would cost her at least $1000.

I told her to hold off and I would check myself.  After she got the jump start, she drove the car for a week back and forth to work with no issues. She works nights, so she drove home every night with the lights on, a 10-minute drive but lights on, nonetheless.

When I met her this weekend, I first tested the battery with the car off, got 12.3V.  With the car running I got 13.9V.   To me, this points to a good alternator and a weakening battery since it was below 12.6V under no load.

Was the dealer trying to scam a 22-year-old girl or could the alternator still be bad?  I drove the car from VA back to NJ with no issues. 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

13.9 is perfect charging voltage. you should have the alt. output amperage. if she drove it for a week with no problems, slap a battery in it and avoid any/all chains. find a privately owned shop. she's less likely to have someone try to rip her off because she's a woman. which is what it sounds like they were trying here.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, jm1827 said:

2013 Mazda 3, battery is probably 4-5 years old.

That's the typical lifespan of batteries today. And that is before any issues like, running them down to dead, driving short distances where the battery isn't getting fully recharged. etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, BigGuns said:

That's the typical lifespan of batteries today. And that is before any issues like, running them down to dead, driving short distances where the battery isn't getting fully recharged. etc.

My 2004 Honda Accord had a small battery to shave off fuel consumption for CAFE standards. Honda also had two modes on the alternator for high and low speeds - also to save fuel for CAFE standards. Don't have a dog in this hunt now (Tesla) but I found it funny that they'd bump up MPG that way, especially since it varies so much with driving. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, RadioGunner said:

My 2004 Honda Accord had a small battery to shave off fuel consumption for CAFE standards. Honda also had two modes on the alternator for high and low speeds - also to save fuel for CAFE standards. Don't have a dog in this hunt now (Tesla) but I found it funny that they'd bump up MPG that way, especially since it varies so much with driving. 

Honda alternators actually turn off when there's no load on the system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, ltcap said:

Honda alternators actually turn off when there's no load on the system.

And at low RPMs they drop the voltage. It's hard on the battery because it deeply cycles the battery if you do a lot of low RPM driving (stop and go city driving). When new my car lost its first battery in the first 2 years. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, H2oVento said:

Battery... If you close to west caldwell. I can load test the battery for you

Thank you for the offer, I will probably just change out the battery.  It is testing less than 12.6V open circuit and drops way down when lights are turned on, so I am thinking it is starting to go.

  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...