PeteF 1,044 Posted August 24, 2013 Going to try some of the Dillon spray lube, and was wondering how long after spraying can I wait before doing the sizing? By this I mean can I spray the cases at night, and then doing the sizing the next day or the day after? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted August 24, 2013 I do it within minutes of spraying, and I do a 10min tumble after I'm done reloading a batch of ammo to get the residue off (there is a whole thread somewhere about *shock* *horror* tumbling after loading). I find that leaving the lube on makes my brass turn all tiger stripped. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRIZ 3,369 Posted August 24, 2013 I like the Lee water soluble lube although may say its not as convienient as a spray. Apply the lube, let it dry and size the cases next week if you want to. After sizing, wash the cases in hot water, dry and a short tumble if you feel you need it. Never any issue regarding lube inside or outside of the case. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pjd832 146 Posted August 24, 2013 I make my own case lube .... I can make a 32oz bottle for about $12 and I like it better than the one shot I used prior that was only 6-8 oz for the same price Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 24, 2013 I've been using Imperial wax lately and I love it, no need to wait for the spray to dry. Just rub a little bit on your thumb and index finger and and as you pick up the cartridge, it transfers to it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njJoniGuy 2,131 Posted August 24, 2013 I've been using Imperial was lately and I love it, not need to wait for the spray to dry. Just rub a little bit on your thumb and index finger and and as you pick up the cartridge, it transfers to it. FTW !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T Bill 649 Posted August 24, 2013 4oz bottle liquid lanolin and a 16oz bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (99% works better, with 91% may have to shake it before spraying). Both can be found at health stores ($7.50 for lanolin and $2.50 for alcohol). Makes 20 oz in a quart spray bottle, lasts a long time. Alcohol is anhydrous, it will absorb moisture from the air, so it is important to close the bottle when not in use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pjd832 146 Posted August 24, 2013 4oz bottle liquid lanolin and a 16oz bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (99% works better, with 91% may have to shake it before spraying). Both can be found at health stores ($7.50 for lanolin and $2.50 for alcohol). Makes 20 oz in a quart spray bottle, lasts a long time. Alcohol is anhydrous, it will absorb moisture from the air, so it is important to close the bottle when not in use. Exactly.... Only I use "iso heet" which is supposedly 97-99% alcohol... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zoid 24 Posted August 27, 2013 People are probably gonna get on me for this. I just spray it on the the big bucket of clean brass I have, mix it by hand a few times, wait maybe 5 min or so mixing here and there and then I just start reloading. Never been an issue for me and works fine. I just am too lazy to spread it on a pan and do all that work. But again, that's just me. Not saying it's the right way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Respect2A 0 Posted August 28, 2013 Hornady one shot. Ftw! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T Bill 649 Posted August 28, 2013 Nice..... Thanks for posting Use 99 % alcohol works much better. Gentle heating (flammable warnings apply) in a hot water bath while mixing makes for easier blending. Do it outside, heated alcohol is a terror on the lungs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted August 28, 2013 I've been using Imperial wax lately and I love it, no need to wait for the spray to dry. Just rub a little bit on your thumb and index finger and and as you pick up the cartridge, it transfers to it. Well, I use 'royal' wax, but this is also what I do. Also it smells nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted August 28, 2013 Hornady one shot. Ftw! Pistol yes, necked rifle no.. the aerosol at least is a guarantee of a stuck case. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Respect2A 0 Posted August 28, 2013 Pistol yes, necked rifle no.. the aerosol at least is a guarantee of a stuck case. Well yeah, pistola only. I dont reload for rifle... Yet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 28, 2013 Well yeah, pistola only. I dont reload for rifle... Yet I don't use lube on pistol cases period. I haven't had a stuck case yet. I understand that lubing makes the process a little easier with resistance but I haven't seen a need for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Respect2A 0 Posted August 29, 2013 I don't use lube on pistol cases period. I haven't had a stuck case yet. I understand that lubing makes the process a little easier with resistance but I haven't seen a need for it. I would say you are I'm the minority on not lubing pistol cases. It makes it much easier, especially cases like 9mm. Less wear and tear on the press, your arm and its easier on the brass so you get more reloads per case. For a minimal cost but a big benefit why wouldn't you? Makes no sense to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atlas 0 Posted August 31, 2013 I like the Dillon, usually let it sit for 5 minutes then wipe with a cloth and reload. You can make your own with lanolin oil and 90% alcohol but I don't recall the ratios. Try a google search for those. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10X 3,298 Posted August 31, 2013 I don't use lube on pistol cases period. I haven't had a stuck case yet. I understand that lubing makes the process a little easier with resistance but I haven't seen a need for it. I presume you use carbide dies. They're available for straight-wall pistol cases, and eliminate the need for case lube. They're the only way to go, in my opinion. That said, they still sell a lot of steel dies for pistol calibers. If that's what you've got, you need to lube the cases before resizing. That's a heads-up for anyone thinking of starting to reload. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeyjones 88 Posted August 31, 2013 I presume you use carbide dies. They're available for straight-wall pistol cases, and eliminate the need for case lube. They're the only way to go, in my opinion. That said, they still sell a lot of steel dies for pistol calibers. If that's what you've got, you need to lube the cases before resizing. That's a heads-up for anyone thinking of starting to reload. Yes carbide sizing dies in all of my pistol calibers, not just straight wall. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A-Tech 8 Posted September 2, 2013 Pistol yes, necked rifle no.. the aerosol at least is a guarantee of a stuck case. Hmm, I've been using it on .223 without a problem. Never thought about it being a problem Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monmouth 19 Posted September 3, 2013 I like the Lee water soluble lube although may say its not as convienient as a spray. Apply the lube, let it dry and size the cases next week if you want to. After sizing, wash the cases in hot water, dry and a short tumble if you feel you need it. Never any issue regarding lube inside or outside of the case. I also use Lee. I squirt a little into a small spray bottle from the dollar store, dilute it with water, and spray it on the brass. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted September 3, 2013 4oz bottle liquid lanolin and a 16oz bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (99% works better, with 91% may have to shake it before spraying). Both can be found at health stores ($7.50 for lanolin and $2.50 for alcohol). Makes 20 oz in a quart spray bottle, lasts a long time. Alcohol is anhydrous, it will absorb moisture from the air, so it is important to close the bottle when not in use. This is fantastic info... Mind making a new thread to the tune of "my home-made case lube solution" that we can sticky? Pistol yes, necked rifle no.. the aerosol at least is a guarantee of a stuck case. While I certainly haven't loaded even a fraction of the amount of rifle rounds as you, I'm up to about 300 rounds of .223/5.56 using One Shot(non aerosol) with Lee dies and haven't been anywhere near a stuck case yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T Bill 649 Posted September 3, 2013 This is fantastic info... Mind making a new thread to the tune of "my home-made case lube solution" that we can sticky? As soon as I get back on-line. Using an old laptop B/U now. My day to day HP let the "blue smoke" out on me on Friday, so I'm a little at a lost for my files at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njpilot 671 Posted September 10, 2013 While I certainly haven't loaded even a fraction of the amount of rifle rounds as you, I'm up to about 300 rounds of .223/5.56 using One Shot(non aerosol) with Lee dies and haven't been anywhere near a stuck case yet. Same here, no issues at all with .223 and one shot. My .308 are a little tougher. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Respect2A 0 Posted September 10, 2013 Hornady does have a case lube for rifle by the way. Comes in a tub. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites