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Assembled my lower last night, question.

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So last night after SOA (best show ever) I decided to assemble my Mag Tactical Lower with the Mag tactical LPK, everything went together pretty smoothly except for a little slip which caused me to scratch the finish near the bolt catch roll pin .. ::sigh:: oh wel what's done is done right?

Now for my question, when the hammer is not depressed I noticed that it is actually in contact with the bolt release and therefore making it difficult to operate the bolt release when the hammer is not depressed, is this normal?

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So last night after SOA (best show ever) I decided to assemble my Mag Tactical Lower with the Mag tactical LPK, everything went together pretty smoothly except for a little slip which caused me to scratch the finish near the bolt catch roll pin .. ::sigh:: oh wel what's done is done right?

Now for my question, when the hammer is not depressed I noticed that it is actually in contact with the bolt release and therefore making it difficult to operate the bolt release when the hammer is not depressed, is this normal?

 

I'm not an expert, but I believe so.  When assembled the hammer will rest on something in the upper (BCG?).  When they're separated the hammer can hit the bolt catch release.  That's why they say to keep your thumb on the hammer when function checking the trigger on a lower.  If you let it release under force it can hit the bolt catch and damage the release, or the lower itself.

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I'm not an expert, but I believe so.  When assembled the hammer will rest on something in the upper (BCG?).  When they're separated the hammer can hit the bolt catch release.  That's why they say to keep your thumb on the hammer when function checking the trigger on a lower.  If you let it release under force it can hit the bolt catch and damage the release, or the lower itself.

Makes sense, thanks for the heads up. I wouldnt ever just let the hammer fly figuring it would damage something upon contact, just wanted to make sure that the contact between the two was normal after assembly. 

 

Kinda bummed about the finished being marred a bit but hey thats what happens when you use steel punches I guess, just hope that it doesnt amount to any problems with the lower being made of magnesium and all and not aluminum, maybe ill just touch it up with something.

 

Other than that this thing was pretty simple to put together, the hardest part was identifying the separate pieces lol.

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First, you are not the first, nor will be the last, to scratch the finish near the bolt catch pin.  Call it character, patina, whatever you want, but I venture to say there are more built lowers out there with these scratches then not.  Black Magic marker is your friend here.

 

As to the hammer hitting the catch, this is normal  Just do not go snapping the hammer against the frame without the upper in place with the FCG, unless you have a hammer stop installed on the lower. This has shown to crack the frame rendering it useless.  Won't happen every time, but not a good idea. 

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First, you are not the first, nor will be the last, to scratch the finish near the bolt catch pin.  Call it character, patina, whatever you want, but I venture to say there are more built lowers out there with these scratches then not.  Black Magic marker is your friend here.

 

As to the hammer hitting the catch, this is normal  Just do not go snapping the hammer against the frame without the upper in place with the FCG, unless you have a hammer stop installed on the lower. This has shown to crack the frame rendering it useless.  Won't happen every time, but not a good idea. 

Yeah, im pretty sure these types of marks are common but it sucks lol.

 

BTW, not sure if anyone care but the hogue grip that comes with the MAG tactical LPK is pretty awesome! I am very happy with my choice, wish the kit came with the extended pins that the lower requires though. 

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So last night after SOA (best show ever) I decided to assemble my Mag Tactical Lower with the Mag tactical LPK, everything went together pretty smoothly except for a little slip which caused me to scratch the finish near the bolt catch roll pin .. ::sigh:: oh wel what's done is done right?

Now for my question, when the hammer is not depressed I noticed that it is actually in contact with the bolt release and therefore making it difficult to operate the bolt release when the hammer is not depressed, is this normal?

Normal with the USGI trigger.  Some aftermarket triggers are redesigned to prevent this.

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Isn't there a tool to help with installation of the bolt release?

Brownells makes a punch for it but I prefer to use a Geissele gas block roll pin starter.  Flip it around and use the other end to drive the roll pin in.  It's the perfect length and the end is rounded, making it a lot harder to mar the lower if it slips.

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Ive seen, and will probably use the vice grip method when I do mine. just tape the ends of the vice grips and slowly press the pin in with them.

 

I've had less success with that than with taping it up and using a roll pin starter punch. 

 

worst was my noveske lower. I got everything in without a scratch, then slip while going to put it away and bboble it only to bounce it off my vice and scratch is up just above where youwould from messing up the roll pin install on the bolt catch. 

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I actually should've taped the roll pin to the end of the punch itself and layered tape along the aide of the lower like I saw in a YouTube video today ... :/

 

My only fear is that the lower if made of magnesium instead of aluminum and I hope exposing the metal a bit won't lead to corrosion issues in the future.

From what I've read about magnesium is that it doesn't rust but it does corrode. The mark is minimal so I really doubt it'll turn into any kind of issue honestly.

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Ive seen, and will probably use the vice grip method when I do mine. just tape the ends of the vice grips and slowly press the pin in with them.

That is what I did. It worked out well for me. Just keep turning the tension a half a turn each time.

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That is what I did. It worked out well for me. Just keep turning the tension a half a turn each time.

I think the key is slow and steady and just hold the catch so it goes in straight, no chance of scratching the finish this way as long as you tape up the pliers.

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