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It would seem that as of late, my mind has been drowning in the thoughts of owning an AR. As with a lot of you, I am on a pretty tight budget which means that my choices are going to be slim. Sure, I could build myself a top of the line zombie blasting machine but that would take too long with how often money finds its way into my wallet. Being a fan of M&P's, I have been reading up on the basic M&P 15 SPORT. I have only heard two complaints about this rifle. No forward assist and no dust cover. From what i'm reading, both of which arent really needed. I guess my questions are as follows..

 

If I do end up getting an M&P 15 SPORT, how upgradeable is it if I wanted to do so down the road?

 

Could I get a BCM (example) upper and just swap without issues?

 

If I wanted to look more "tacticool", could I replace the handguard?

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$600 for the gun from WHERE? Buds? Don't forget Shipping + FFL Fees + NICS + TAX. That $600 just jumped up to $750.

 

If you're going pure basic on the AR:

 

NJGF Spikes Stripped Lower - $122 (if you got one)

PSA Lower Build Kit: $89.99 (on sale right now) + $7 shipping

JSE Surplus "Post ban" upper (Pinned Brake) - $395 + shipping

Rear Sight - $50 + shipping

Total Cost - $665 +shipping

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Palmetto State Armory, if your budget is around $600. You could build or buy from them right around that price. I'm pretty sure they'll even pin a brake and remove lug for you, or you could always have it shipped to Paul at Arms and Ammo and have him do it for you. He does excellent work. I'd suggest buying an upper and building a lower. It's really easy to do and gives you a great sense of how the rifle operates. With everything a $600 rifle will easily turn out more expensive then you plan. I started with a $750ish goal and wound up spending close to a grand. Good luck.

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$600 for the gun from WHERE? Buds? Don't forget Shipping + FFL Fees + NICS + TAX. That $600 just jumped up to $750.

 

If you're going pure basic on the AR:

 

NJGF Spikes Stripped Lower - $122 (if you got one)

PSA Lower Build Kit: $89.99 (on sale right now) + $7 shipping

JSE Surplus "Post ban" upper (Pinned Brake) - $395 + shipping

Rear Sight - $50 + shipping

Total Cost - $665 +shipping

 

Where is the JSE upper that you are talking about? I'm on the site but don't see it.

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Thanks for the link. Now you have me thinking of building the most basic of basic AR's and upgrade parts as money lets me.

I think in the long run you'll wind up spending a decent amount more doing it this way. I would buy quality pieces when your budget allows. I'm of the mind to buy it once the way you want it. Do a ton of research and figure out exactly what you want in the gun and buy it little by little.

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$600 for the gun from WHERE? Buds? Don't forget Shipping + FFL Fees + NICS + TAX. That $600 just jumped up to $750.

 

If you're going pure basic on the AR:

 

NJGF Spikes Stripped Lower - $122 (if you got one)

PSA Lower Build Kit: $89.99 (on sale right now) + $7 shipping

JSE Surplus "Post ban" upper (Pinned Brake) - $395 + shipping

Rear Sight - $50 + shipping

Total Cost - $665 +shipping

 

PSA has stripped lowers for $50 sometimes.

 

dont forget about $70 for a stock kit

 

Also check out some vendors on this site. AccessoryArms has a decent selection i appears.

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PSA has stripped lowers for $50 sometimes.

 

dont forget about $70 for a stock kit

 

Also check out some vendors on this site. AccessoryArms has a decent selection i appears.

 

The PSA lower build kit comes with a stock, receiver extention, etc.

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$600 for the gun from WHERE? Buds? Don't forget Shipping + FFL Fees + NICS + TAX. That $600 just jumped up to $750.

 

Bud's doesn't charge tax and in most cases ships free, and FFL + NICS fees still need to be paid when you buy a lower from anyone. Perhaps you can save FFL xfer fees if you buy the lower from a local dealer. Not saying Bud's is the best place to buy an AR from, just pointing out the discrepencies.

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Do yourself a favor, and buy a barrel WITHOUT threads or permanently attached muzzle accessories.

It's only a .223/5.56 and being here in the Glorious PRNJ, a flash hider is out of the question anyway.

And there really is no pressing need for a muzzle brake or compensator.

 

Looking tacticool has nothing to do with function.

Having a bare muzzle makes it much easier to do future upgrades, as your budget allows.

Free floats and piston kits require sliding parts on from the muzzle end, and if you've got a permanently compensator there, you're screwed.

 

Just my opinion.

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Do yourself a favor, and buy a barrel WITHOUT threads or permanently attached muzzle accessories.

It's only a .223/5.56 and being here in the Glorious PRNJ, a flash hider is out of the question anyway.

And there really is no pressing need for a muzzle brake or compensator.

 

Looking tacticool has nothing to do with function.

Having a bare muzzle makes it much easier to do future upgrades, as your budget allows.

Free floats and piston kits require sliding parts on from the muzzle end, and if you've got a permanently compensator there, you're screwed.

 

Just my opinion.

 

 

That's good advise!!

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MP Sport is a good weapon. Dont worry about the F/O assist too much. Altouthgh I have to instruct the use of it when I teach, generally I will elaborate if asked why its not needed.

 

http://shootrite.wordpress.com/2010/09/19/the-shootrite-katana/

 

Great info and article on the black rifle. I am a firm believer.

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I would not build an AR15 without forward assist unless it was ONLY a range toy..

I treat my gun rough and I run them hard.. they get dirty.. and on at least one occasion I needed the forward assist to get my other AR to fire.. the bolt had gone dirty and the forward assist needed to be hit pretty hard to fully chamber a round.. to the guns credit.. the gun WAS dirty.. but I can not always rely on the gun to be in perfect clean order.. unless of course.. it is JUST a range toy.. further changing the upper out at a later date is not appealing to me..

do what you like.. but forward assist has been useful to me at least once.. and once is enough to learn the lesson.. for me at least..

 

 

the article is confusing to me.. he talks down on modern technology.. but then talks about a rail location to add a light.. talks about slings but yet pictures the gun with a sling.. talks down about collapsible stocks? it is complete nonsense to ignore modern technology..

 

my "modern" AR WITH a rail.. WITH a flashlight weighs a little over 7lbs unloaded sans optic..... nothing really all that heavy..

 

a collapsible stock is HUGELY useful with shooting from various positions in different situations.. and anyone who knocks that as "complicated" is honestly silly to me.. if you can't figure out how to work an adjustable stock?

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I think the moral of the story is to keep it simple. The more things you have on a rifle that arent really needed the more things can break and not function. Imagine a spring breaking on a collapsible stock and it just slides back and forth. I have personally seen people get wrapped up in crazy tacticool slings. I have seen people rely on optics soo much that when they fail they have problems with iron sights. Its a keep is simple stupid approach to firearms. Alot of guns look tacticool but if they dont work they arent much good. But to each his own.

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Since this will be my first AR style rifle, I would love to keep things as simple as I can but with some of the features I want. I'm still up in the air as to purchase or build. If I was to build a bare-bones, absolute minimum with the budget of a 7th grader with lawn mowing money...What could I build? Is it as simple as purchasing the cheapest complete upper and cheapest complete lower and bolting together?? If so, what would be cheapest uppers and lowers be that had the options that I list below?? I'm talking low budget.

 

I'm not looking for features of a full mil-spec rifle but I would want it to look close. I'm also not looking for the most dependable parts at the moment. I want something that will ease me into the AR world that I can upgrade at a later time.

 

Where could I find the CHEAPEST flat top 16" upper with a quad rail that I could mount my own flip up sites and/or optics to with a NJ legal comp already installed??

 

Where could I find the CHEAPEST "complete" lower with pinned stock??

 

This would be just a 223/556 range plinker for now.

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Taking into account a couple things...To build you need a couple tools not expensive ones but you need them. You need a sturdy bench vise and blocks to complete a build from scratch and an ar15 aromorers tool. Best bet is to get with anyone of the FFL's here using a price request and see what they are running. I know PK90 is a good one.

 

Here are some websites:

 

www.palmettostatearmory.com

www.del-ton.com

www.bushmaster.com/index.asp

 

just to name a few.

 

Hope this helps.

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I think the moral of the story is to keep it simple. The more things you have on a rifle that arent really needed the more things can break and not function. Imagine a spring breaking on a collapsible stock and it just slides back and forth. I have personally seen people get wrapped up in crazy tacticool slings. I have seen people rely on optics soo much that when they fail they have problems with iron sights. Its a keep is simple stupid approach to firearms. Alot of guns look tacticool but if they dont work they arent much good. But to each his own.

 

with the exception of the stock breakage.. most of the stuff you pointed out are indicative of poor training.. poor training is poor training..

my rifles.. AR.. AK.. etc.. they have optics.. they have collapsible stocks.. flashlights.. but they are streamlined as can be.. the optics for example.. Aimpoints.. I have run them hard and no malfunctions... but IF they broke somehow.. they co-witness my irons.. point being I have modern technology but don't rely on it as there is a backup.. in thinking about your potential scenario of a stock spring breaking.. I guess it could? never gave it thought.. but probably would just pull a ziptie off of my ammo carrier and ziptie the stock... it would be an annoyance.. but could easily be done? and I would rather run that risk in having teh ability for adjustment... a collapsible stock allows the stock to be stretched out nice and far when shooting prone.. or short and tight when moving and shooting with a mag rig/body armor.. most of the "malfunctions" can be avoided by using high quality parts..

 

Since this will be my first AR style rifle, I would love to keep things as simple as I can but with some of the features I want. I'm still up in the air as to purchase or build. If I was to build a bare-bones, absolute minimum with the budget of a 7th grader with lawn mowing money...What could I build? Is it as simple as purchasing the cheapest complete upper and cheapest complete lower and bolting together?? If so, what would be cheapest uppers and lowers be that had the options that I list below?? I'm talking low budget.

 

I'm not looking for features of a full mil-spec rifle but I would want it to look close. I'm also not looking for the most dependable parts at the moment. I want something that will ease me into the AR world that I can upgrade at a later time.

 

Where could I find the CHEAPEST 16" upper with a quad rail that I could mount my own flip up sites and/or optics to with a NJ legal comp already installed??

 

Where could I find the CHEAPEST "complete" lower with pinned stock??

 

This would be just a 223/556 range plinker for now.

 

if you want cheapest.. don't get a quad rail.. you are just adding expense..

what you have to understand is you have to really know what you want.. because certain things are difficult to reverse.. here is an example.. you get a traditional front AR sight I run this.. it is cheaper and rock solid... BUT with that said.. you can not just pop it off later if the brake is welded on..

 

I am a firm believer of doing it "right" the first time.. and what is right for you is not what is right for me.. I only own a few guns.. but I build them as if my life depends on them.. I would rather have like 4 or 5 rifles that I am confident in betting my life on.. than 10 or 15 range toys.. so all my money goes into building "the gun"... sit down and outline what you want in a gun.. what stock.. what type of trigger.. ambidextrous safety? do you want a forward assist? how about a muzzle brake? rate the things in importance.. think about if they are things you want to add later.. because like I said some stuff is a pain in the a** to add later and it is better to just get it done the first time..

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Taking into account a couple things...To build you need a couple tools not expensive ones but you need them. You need a sturdy bench vise and blocks to complete a build from scratch and an ar15 aromorers tool. Best bet is to get with anyone of the FFL's here using a price request and see what they are running. I know PK90 is a good one. Here are some websites: www.palmettostatearmory.com www.del-ton.com www.bushmaster.com/index.asp just to name a few. Hope this helps.

 

I agree you need the armorers tool.. I got by without a bench vice.. but I also did not mount my barrel to upper.. I pretty much did the rest..

 

if you build... I used Aimsurplus for my upper.. and the rest I just bought as I felt like I had the money.. the gun was built over a couple months.. not because it is hard.. but due to finances..

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Cheapest rails? Eh - don't totally cheap out. If you want well-priced and can do rails, go with a Magpul MOE handguard. You can add rails onto it on all four sides.

I have them on 3 sides on mine.

AR15-AFG2-1900.jpg

 

the moe handguard is a nice lightweight adaptive handguard if you want the simplest lightest... I am selling a mid length one with some rails.. *shameless plug* LOL

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I just looked at aimsurplus and saw that they sell complete uppers and lowers for cheap. Would I need tools to slap the two together??

 

Sure, I would love to build a high quality AR but with my budget at the moment, it would take FOREVER. This is why i'm looking to do this as cheap as possible, have something to play with at the range WHILE I replace parts. To be honest, I'm not a fan of the standard AR sight and would rather use flip up's of some sort from the beginning. I do like that magpul handguard though.

 

Even better....if someone here has what i'm looking for in the $600.00 range??

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Take into account how many you may plan on building. If you are only building 1 and thats it you will probably get some of your money back if you sell the ar15 tool in the future. vlad is right. You wont need the vise and block unless you are mounting your own barrel. Me and him see eye to eye on most AR related topics we just get there in different ways. Good quality parts even if they cost more are always the best way to go.

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I just looked at aimsurplus and saw that they sell complete uppers and lowers for cheap. Would I need tools to slap the two together??

 

Sure, I would love to build a high quality AR but with my budget at the moment, it would take FOREVER. This is why i'm looking to do this as cheap as possible, have something to play with at the range WHILE I replace parts. To be honest, I'm not a fan of the standard AR sight and would rather use flip up's of some sort from the beginning. I do like that magpul handguard though.

 

Even better....if someone here has what i'm looking for in the $600.00 range??

 

 

right but like I was saying.. there are SOME things for example welded muzzle device.. forward assist.. handguard when you have a welded muzzle device.. that are not really easy to change after the fact..

 

so your initial choices should reflect what you want down the road.. no tools needed to mate a lower to an upper.. as long as they fit which they do in most cases..

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Take into account how many you may plan on building. If you are only building 1 and thats it you will probably get some of your money back if you sell the ar15 tool in the future. vlad is right. You wont need the vise and block unless you are mounting your own barrel. Me and him see eye to eye on most AR related topics we just get there in different ways. Good quality parts even if they cost more are always the best way to go.

+1

buy good quality parts and cry once..

as opposed to replacing junk over and over again...

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