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Front Brake Pads - Resurface Rotor and replace pads - costs ?

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Any idea what I should expect to pay to get rotors resurfaced and replace pads  on front ?

 

Appreciate recommendation of shop in Bergen County.

what kind of car. makes a big difference in cost of pads, and whether or not there's enough material on the rotors to cut. are they grinding?

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I am a n00b when it comes to Cars. Building ARs seems like child play :-) .

 

Honda Civic 2009.  Dealer checked and recommended to have front rotor resurfaced and pads replaced. Also rear pads to be "cleaned".  3 weeks after recommendation, I hear weird noise coming from front axle when driving. Sounds like something is rubbing or touching against. Noise appears to come when breaking too. Dont feel any "jumping".

 

So thought I will just take to a decent repair shop if anyone can recommend one in Bergen County.

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If you can build an AR, you can do a disk brake job.

 

I just did a front brake job on my '09 VW GTI. Cost was $158 for a pair or rotors and a set of brake pads, and an 2 hours of my time. That would have been $5-600 at VW, and $4-500 at a shop.

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It's about $200 and another $90 to resurface.

 

Could you pay less? Maybe. If you don't resurface, test the brakes under safe conditions and make sure you know if the stopping distance dropped or not. Eventually it should come back if nothing is damaged, but you don't want a surprise on Day 2 on your way to work.

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No one cuts rotors anymore since composites came out. They chatter too much on the lathe. Just toss them and replace, they're usually cheap enough unless it's European. If it's a lease pad slap it and trade it back in. When you cut a rotor your removing material making it thinner, one good panic stop even if it's within specs, can warp them and cause pulsation. Not really worth doing imo.

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No one cuts rotors anymore since composites came out. They chatter too much on the lathe. Just toss them and replace, they're usually cheap enough unless it's European. If it's a lease pad slap it and trade it back in. When you cut a rotor your removing material making it thinner, one good panic stop even if it's within specs, can warp them and cause pulsation. Not really worth doing imo.

You can still cut composites, with the proper attachments. Having said that, I avoid cutting rotors as much as I can because nobody drives like miss daisy and everyone complains about pulsation after a few thousand miles.

 

When I do resurface rotors, I charge $30ea when also performing a brake pad replacement. Most times I do a civic like yours it would be around $250 to do brake pads and resurface.

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No one cuts rotors anymore since composites came out. They chatter too much on the lathe. Just toss them and replace, they're usually cheap enough unless it's European. If it's a lease pad slap it and trade it back in. When you cut a rotor your removing material making it thinner, one good panic stop even if it's within specs, can warp them and cause pulsation. Not really worth doing imo.

I've done just about everything mechanical and most body jobs on cars in my time including a full color change repaint. I agree unless it's something exotic you should just replace the rotors. If you can build an AR you can do a disc brake job.

 

Get a Haynes manual for you car. It will save you a lot of money.

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I worked in an Auto parts store for many years, and yes composite rotors can be turned with the correct adapters. It's just a pain in the ass to set up. Sometimes it cost as much to turn them as it does for a set of replacements. Obviously higher quality rotors cost more, there's usually a few different grades available for most common vehicles. I've probably cut a few thousand rotors, drums, & flywheels, we did heads too. from the time is was 16 - mid 20's. I loved working in the Machine shop just couldn't afford the lifestyle I wanted to live on that paycheck, had to move on...

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u need help, shoot me a PM!  that shit will get done in 30min!  f*ck paying these auto crooks! im not too far from u.

 

 

YEAH!!!!   We suck......  HOW DARE US TRY AND MAKE A LIVING......

 

LOL.....

 

Seriously.... if you can get someone to help you, its not a bad job....  

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I am a n00b when it comes to Cars. Building ARs seems like child play :-) .

 

Honda Civic 2009.  Dealer checked and recommended to have front rotor resurfaced and pads replaced. Also rear pads to be "cleaned".  3 weeks after recommendation, I hear weird noise coming from front axle when driving. Sounds like something is rubbing or touching against. Noise appears to come when breaking too. Dont feel any "jumping".

 

So thought I will just take to a decent repair shop if anyone can recommend one in Bergen County.

take it to your local mechanic, and get a second opinion. i can't tell you how many people that have come to me with requests for brake jobs, 'cause the dealer said they needed them...and they still had 50% left.......

 

 doesn't gtonut own a shop up your way? i'm down in camden county.....but that's a haul from where you're at.

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Thanks. Honda Dealer is asking close to that.  New pair of rotors (Centric 120.40036 Premium Brake Rotor) with a pair of Akebono comes to about $110. Tempting to DYI but have to muster enough courage :-) .

it's a honda. take your time, go slow, and you should be ok. safety. do NOT work on the car without putting jackstands under it. set the parking brake, AND chock the rear tires. 12 or 13mm wrench to take off caliper bolts. there'll be a setscrew holding the rotors on. they seize sometimes. soak the crap out of it with wd40. do NOT let the caliper hang by the hose. press piston in slow. clean everything, and grease where pads slide. reassemble. repeat and rinse for other side.

 

WHEN TIRES ARE BACK ON, PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL A FEW TIMES BEFORE EVEN STARTING ENGINE.

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that all said........depending on ease, i get around 150 to 250 for front brake service. if it means getting the job, and they're thick enough, i'll cut rotors for that. i try to not cut em though. replacing them they should be about 40-70 each.

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^^^ I may have to bring it to him in pieces, after I take a DYI shot at it :-) .  BTW, thanks for the suggestions.

no sweat man. i'm all about supporting "us" here on the forums, 'cause we gotta stick together. i'd rather spend my money with fellow gun people than with non-gun people.

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i've broken soooooo many bits on those......

It's the only reason I even have an impact driver. I learned the easy way of removing them with an air hammer though. I just use a sharpened center punch chisel and get them to spin off with one pull of the trigger. Once I learned that, I almost never needed my impact driver again.

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Find a local mechanic to look at it.  You'll pay half what the dealer will charge and you'll be much less likely to get repairs you don't need.  There might be an honest dealer somewhere but there are so many stories of people getting ripped off at the dealers that I wouldn't take the chance.

 

A very close friend is a mechanic and was employed by two different dealers, two different manufacturers. He now works for an independent shop. He told me that when he worked for dealers, more than half the repairs he did were unnecessary. 

 

My friend would write up the estimate for repairs and hand it to the service manager.  The service manager would get the customer's approval and hand back a new quote with additional repairs added.

 

My nephew broke an exhaust manifold stud doing his own repair work.  He took the truck to the dealer to have the stud drilled out and repaired.  He showed the mechanic the broken stud.  The service manager called and said that they had found a second broken stud so the cost would be double the initial estimate.  My nephew went directly to the shop and found the mechanic working on the truck.  The mechanic was actively working on the truck and knew nothing about a second broken stud.

 

My secretary was in the dealership waiting for a repair to be done. While she waited, 5 different people came into the shop to get oil changes.  All five were told by the service manager that the mechanic noticed they needed their breaks replaced and it was their lucky day - they had the parts in stock and could do it right now.

 

I've got more stories but that's enough.

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Dealer vs independent shop.  I had a Honda Civic that was serviced exclusively by the dealer for most of it's life.  I fully knew I was getting raped every time I went in, even for a simple oil change the price was exorbitant.  However, the car ran like a top, never a single problem, ever, while it was being serviced by the dealer.  I have a 94 Caddy that I definitely cannot afford to have dealer serviced  .I've had it to several mechanics who came highly recommended.  Not one of them could properly tune the engine.

 

A good mechanic is worth their weight in gold.  I used to know two very good mechanics who truly enjoyed their trade.  They were on the high end price range for independents but still cheaper than a dealer's shop and worth every penny.  After they moved out of NJ I had, and continue to have, a long string of experiences with nothing but monkeys with wrenches.  I decided if some incompetent git was going to work on my car it may as well be me.  Between car specific forums and youtube I've become something of a shade tree mechanic.  It is surprisingly easy to do certain things that would cost hundreds, if not thousands, for a mere pittance compared to taking it to a shop.  The biggest problem I encountered was having the right tools and they can add up both in cost and space.

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It's the only reason I even have an impact driver. I learned the easy way of removing them with an air hammer though. I just use a sharpened center punch chisel and get them to spin off with one pull of the trigger. Once I learned that, I almost never needed my impact driver again.

that's how i do it in between broken bits, lolol. me being a 1 man shop though, my snap on dude stopped coming 'round, so i get them warrantied through the guy that stops at the shop across the street. i also buy from that guy now, through them. i will not call the schmuck that used to stop here. he doesn't deserve any of my money if he can't stop by.......

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Dealer vs independent shop.  I had a Honda Civic that was serviced exclusively by the dealer for most of it's life.  I fully knew I was getting raped every time I went in, even for a simple oil change the price was exorbitant.  However, the car ran like a top, never a single problem, ever, while it was being serviced by the dealer.  I have a 94 Caddy that I definitely cannot afford to have dealer serviced  .I've had it to several mechanics who came highly recommended.  Not one of them could properly tune the engine.

 

A good mechanic is worth their weight in gold.  I used to know two very good mechanics who truly enjoyed their trade.  They were on the high end price range for independents but still cheaper than a dealer's shop and worth every penny.  After they moved out of NJ I had, and continue to have, a long string of experiences with nothing but monkeys with wrenches.  I decided if some incompetent git was going to work on my car it may as well be me.  Between car specific forums and youtube I've become something of a shade tree mechanic.  It is surprisingly easy to do certain things that would cost hundreds, if not thousands, for a mere pittance compared to taking it to a shop.  The biggest problem I encountered was having the right tools and they can add up both in cost and space.

some things, we can't get information for. i had a bmw a couple weeks ago......dash was giving us a christmas light show. i have THREE info sources i pay for. not a single one of them had anything on this, or the related codes. i found the problem, but it took nearly double the time it should have.

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