Jump to content
MartyZ

New SPR build

Recommended Posts

Here's where my build is at. I just need a barrel. I don't mind the moe stock because of the built in qd cups but I think I prefer the cheek weld of the a2.

 

2015-07-12%2002.25.01_zpsuxdiwys8.jpg

 

I think I'm gonna go with a faxon or mega barrel and I have a griffin comp waiting.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Is that ceracote? I'm thinking of making mine (lower, upper, and handguard) a dark silver.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Never heard of them so I investigated.  It seems that BA was a one man operation with very long wait times up until last year when Aero Precision bought a stake in the barrel maker.  Also, their claim to fame is the "Hanson profile" which is supposed to tame barrel whip.  Generally speaking the reviews appear to be very positive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are losing me.

 

Again my experience and opinions.

 

You ALWAYS FL size when reloading for an AR.

 

The dies you use are .223 Rem. (i've never seen 5.56Nato dies, but maybe they're out there)

 

So In a semi auto you will never have fire formed cases.  Just to close for reliable feeding. Unless of course if you single load it will work.

 

 

I'm open to learning (honestly).

 

I only FL size cases that get dented.  Otherwise, I jsut neck size and check trim.  Ive done this for a long time with no adverse affects (no feeding issues), but if this is not the way to go, i would like to know why.

Old school, if you get a minute, I'm open to feedback.

 

I know popular forum wisdom is that you cannot neck size semi auto's due to potential feeding/extraction issues.  Im aware of this when I necksize.  I dont use a progressive loader and basically batch load my "pet loads".  I'm careful with my case prep. I check cases for dents, then check final dimensions with an RCBS case micrometer to measure the shoulder angle/position.  If all is well, then im good to go.  I haven't had a single feeding/stuck case issue yet.  Also, i do not rapid fire or have very long strings of fire.  I use carb & choke cleaner to clean the carbon from the chamber and freebore area (not a full bore cleaning) after each outing.

 

I started experimenting with neck sizing a couple of years ago to see if it made an accuracy difference, since it works well with bolt guns.  The jury is still out.  Im not sure if im doing more work for lesser returns, so I would love to hear other ppl's experiences and facts, good or bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old school, if you get a minute, I'm open to feedback.

 

I know popular forum wisdom is that you cannot neck size semi auto's due to potential feeding/extraction issues.  Im aware of this when I necksize.  I dont use a progressive loader and basically batch load my "pet loads".  I'm careful with my case prep. I check cases for dents, then check final dimensions with an RCBS case micrometer to measure the shoulder angle/position.  If all is well, then im good to go.  I haven't had a single feeding/stuck case issue yet.  Also, i do not rapid fire or have very long strings of fire.  I use carb & choke cleaner to clean the carbon from the chamber and freebore area (not a full bore cleaning) after each outing.

 

I started experimenting with neck sizing a couple of years ago to see if it made an accuracy difference, since it works well with bolt guns.  The jury is still out.  Im not sure if im doing more work for lesser returns, so I would love to hear other ppl's experiences and facts, good or bad.

 

I have no idea why you re having the success you are.  But don't mess with what works.

 

Even my 6mm AR which I consider a precision rifle, I FL size but use a bushing die so I can regulate the neck diameter.

 

My precision 223 AR I just FL size with a Dillon carbide and it shoots a ragged hole at 100 with magazine length ammo.

 

So what works for you works.  But, if you start having problems you know where to start looking.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no idea why you re having the success you are.  But don't mess with what works.

 

Even my 6mm AR which I consider a precision rifle, I FL size but use a bushing die so I can regulate the neck diameter.

 

My precision 223 AR I just FL size with a Dillon carbide and it shoots a ragged hole at 100 with magazine length ammo.

 

So what works for you works.  But, if you start having problems you know where to start looking.

Thing is, I'm not sure if Im doing more work for little or no accuracy gains (in a semi auto).  If I am gaining accuracy, it might be too little of a gain vs my shooting abilities.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You not doing more work if anything you're doing less work

 

You always have to check your case length and trim if necessary

 

So you're not spinning your wheels

 

Just keep shooting and get as good as your rifles potential

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have personal experience yet, but I've done a ton if research and I know what I plan on doing for my build. I love the Luth AR stock. Supposedly there is a slight advantage to a billet upper and even more so to a heavy walled billet upper like the SunDevil, but it seems that a rigid forged upper like the DPMS LoPro is just as good. Either way there are many that say that you should true the front of the upper with a lapping kit. There are also ways to make sure the barrel has no play at all. Regarding a muzzle device because you need to have it pinned depending on who does the work and of what contour the barrel is, it can possibly slightly indent the barrel and have a negative effect on your accuracy, so I'm getting a barrel with a target crown.

Then again nothing I wrote now would have any effect at all on my groups because of my (not quite sufficient) skill level. But I have been told these things by people that regularly shoot their AR15's past 1200 yards ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From the reviews I'm leaning towards the ballistic advantage barrel, and the price is right at $250 w/cross pinned lo-pro gas block. And they have a matching nib bcg for $179.

 

Look I don't have NO DOG IN THIS HUNT!

 

Did you check out x-caliber barrels?

 

These are the employees that left McGowen.  This is bench rest quality stuff at decent prices.

 

And as far as lapping the upper...  Spot it with bluing or grease If you have 80% contact or better and the barrel extension isn't sloppy in the receiver..

 

Lock it up.

 

I think Vlad said he's seen Billet uppers out of spec, I don't doubt it but I haven't seen it.  I buy billets because I feel they are more likely in spec.

 

I have one more build in me and it's going to be a defense gun.  If you saw where I live you'd know why...LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look I don't have NO DOG IN THIS HUNT!

 

Did you check out x-caliber barrels?

 

These are the employees that left McGowen. This is bench rest quality stuff at decent prices.

 

And as far as lapping the upper... Spot it with bluing or grease If you have 80% contact or better and the barrel extension isn't sloppy in the receiver..

 

Lock it up.

 

I think Vlad said he's seen Billet uppers out of spec, I don't doubt it but I haven't seen it. I buy billets because I feel they are more likely in spec.

 

I have one more build in me and it's going to be a defense gun. If you saw where I live you'd know why...LOL

They look promising but i couldn't find many reviews. Also their caliber selection is confusing, would i get the 22CF?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I think Vlad said he's seen Billet uppers out of spec, I don't doubt it but I haven't seen it.  I buy billets because I feel they are more likely in spec.

 

 

 

In my case it was a Vltor upper. The barrel hole was vaguely oval, its inner diameter varied from 1.002 to 1.009. I was trying to fit a barrel machined at 0.999  and it was like tossing a hot dog down a hallway.

 

This isn't to speak poorly of all billet uppers, I'm sure lots of them are fine, my point was that just being a billet upper is not a sign of quality by itself, how the metal was poured is not the determining factor, but the machining is. 

 

I went through 4 uppers that I swapped around or returned before I found one I really liked (1.001, all the way around as far as I could measure it) and that was a forged JP.

 

YMMV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They look promising but i couldn't find many reviews. Also their caliber selection is confusing, would i get the 22CF?

 

OK They are out of a benchrest heritage but make AR barrels.

 

They should pay me for explaining this stuff.

 

You go to 22CF=Center fire

Pick your rate of twist

Pick your chamber designation

Pick your contour

Pick your gas port length

Pick your muzzle designation (crowned or threaded)

Pick and of course length.

 

The reason you don't see loads of reviews is this is not a tacticool/mall ninja company.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just signed up 2 weeks ago for the Ballistic advantage emails --

 

 I'm waiting for the Hanson 14.5 wylde to go on sale and I think I'm gonna grab one

 

Thinking about pinning a lantac dragon brake to make it legal

 

 

I just built my version of an SPR -- It's more accurate than me even with 55 grn surplus pulled reloads -- can't wait to see what it will do with 69grn SMK

 

Noveske 16" 1/7 twist stainless -- mid length gas -- AK concepts muzzle brake

Noveske Lo pro gas block

Noveske matched bolt carried in a Colt FA bolt carrier

Mounted on a Larue stealth upper 

13.2" larue FF rail -- Harris bipod on quick releases mount -- Magpul AFG

GRSC 1X4 scope in a pepr mount for now --  have a bobro mount needing those silly scope mount screws replaced

Billet Midwest PX lower

Geiselle SSA-e trigger

Magpul PRS stock -- Rifle length buffer and tube

Ergo grip

Stag LPK

 

It is one heavy bastard 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just signed up 2 weeks ago for the Ballistic advantage emails --

 

I'm waiting for the Hanson 14.5 wylde to go on sale and I think I'm gonna grab one

 

Thinking about pinning a lantac dragon brake to make it legal

 

 

I just built my version of an SPR -- It's more accurate than me even with 55 grn surplus pulled reloads -- can't wait to see what it will do with 69grn SMK

 

Noveske 16" 1/7 twist stainless -- mid length gas -- AK concepts muzzle brake

Noveske Lo pro gas block

Noveske matched bolt carried in a Colt FA bolt carrier

Mounted on a Larue stealth upper

15.1" larue FF rail -- Harris bipod on quick releases mount -- Magpul AFG

GRSC 1X4 scope in a pepr mount for now -- have a bobro mount needing those silly scope mount screws replaced

Billet Midwest PX lower

Geiselle SSA-e trigger

Magpul PRS stock -- Rifle length buffer and tube

Ergo grip

Stag LPK

 

It is one heavy bastard

Probably weighs as much as a typical RECCE; ~10lbs or so. Ive always felt if the extra 2-3 lbs was an issue then the fix is a lil bit of gym time, lol.

 

Sounds like a nice build list. Got a pic?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, barrel choice is still up in the air but I think I have it narrowed down to 18" 1:8 twist, rifle length, SPR profile, manufacturer still in question. Also, to save some money for the more important things I decided to use my dust covered VLTOR EMOD stock.

 

Now the question is gas system, DI or Piston. the rice difference since I am building everything from scratch and don't have to worry about throw away parts will be about $200 more for the piston setup. Would be an Adams Arms and I would use a Samson EVO 12 EX forearm.

 

Just as a background, I currently have a Stag Model 8 (piston) with a Samson EVO 7 EX and I love the combination. The samson top rail butts up against the gas block rail and looks like it's one piece.  I also love the way the piston shoots, but I must confess that I never shot a DI gun and can't really make an educated decision as to which would be better, especially for an SPR style gun, that is why I come here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. Burnt bronze. Looks more like COD gold in the pic lol

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I was going to ask if it was gold, because I did a wilson combat set in burnt bronze and it looks differently.  I guess it's the photo.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The DI vs piston debate has been argued forever but in terms of long term reliability, DI seems to have the clear advantage. It makes sense when you consider that it has less moving parts.

 

There is an epic thread on ar15.com ny Ron Haley, who co-owns a tourist gun range in Vegas. He has provided what might be one the most documented, controlled studies on high round count/long term durability of various combat rifles, including the AR.

 

Long story, short; other than the HK416 or Titan piston set up, none of the other pistons lasted nearly as long as a DI.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What's the consensus on the PRS stock?

 

Its heavy. Everyone agrees on that.

 

It is probably fine for a rifle that isn't going to be carried around a lot or shot a lot off hand.  It is an excellent stock really for shooting off a bench, and I've seen some people like its adaptability enough to use it for run and gun games, but in that world I'm seeing increasing number of people switching to the Luth which is almost as adjustable but much cheaper and much lighter or much fancier race gun only stocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope not, but this is NJ, and someone could decide that a fix stock is telescoping because you can move your shoulder back and forth and the gun with it.

PRS are fine here. They are sold on various guns without any needed mods.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...