Jon 264 Posted October 30, 2011 As posted in the other thread, I have been forced to build a new shed earlier than anticipated. Looking for some sort of wooden shed kit that I can assemble myself. Anyone gone this route? Hoping to keep the cost around 1500-1800 or so, and would like approx. 100sq ft. Thanks guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hiker88 22 Posted October 30, 2011 Hi Jon, If you don't mind a plastic shed, this is what I put up in my yard a couple of years ago: http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100323487/7-ft-x-7-ft-big-max-shed-reviews/reviews.htm I think the biggest size it comes is around 8x10 ft. All you need to have is a level surface for the base and each piece locks and screws in to each other. It's easy to maintain and clean as well. here's a video on youtube: Hope this helps. Rey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted October 30, 2011 Jon, build your own for less. The kits typically use 2x3s instead of 2x4s and often are framed on the light side (they're not really very sturdy) Let me know if you want some type of plans. I usually go 12x8 or 8x12 as I don't like to cut plywood if I don't have to. (100 sq ft or under in NJ does not require a building permit but may require a land use permit fyi). Also, most wood frame kits don't include roofing so you end up adding that on top of the kit as well. The plastic sheds are decent if they meet your overall needs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted October 30, 2011 Rey, that's a pretty neat idea, and one I hadn't thought of. I was hoping to make something with a solid frame so I can hang critters in there during hunting season... but I suppose I could hang em from the tree out back instead. Something I need to look into some more. Dan, I have no problem building my own... and good call on keeping it under 100sq ft to avoid permits. I need to measure the footprint of the old shed anyway to see if I can get away with no permits(ie, replacing an existing structure). Any idea what a 12x8 or 8x12 would cost in parts? With a decent set of plans I think may be the way to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krdshrk 3,878 Posted October 30, 2011 Jon - Isn't the tree and shed covered by homeowner's insurance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony357 386 Posted October 30, 2011 I had damage from a noreaster last year fence and roof, put in a claim and the insurance co dropped us after 18 years with them.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane45 807 Posted October 30, 2011 I was going to build a shed. In the end I bought an enclosed trailer instead. No permits needed and I can take it with me if I move. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted October 30, 2011 I bought this shed from Home Depot in 2003. 10x12. Very happy with it. It was $1800.00 One white guy and two mexicans erected it in about an hour. I insulated it and put paneling and peg board on the inside. I built a railroad tie/Quarry Process base for it and leveled it. The installer told me it was the best base he'd ever installed on. Most people have them put it right on the ground or on a few bricks. I happened to just take this picture today since I thought it was pretty. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnoutdoors 10 Posted October 30, 2011 I was at Home Depot last weekend and they were having a clearance sale on the demo sheds. Not sure if its still running, but maybe worth a look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted October 30, 2011 Dan, I have no problem building my own... and good call on keeping it under 100sq ft to avoid permits. I need to measure the footprint of the old shed anyway to see if I can get away with no permits(ie, replacing an existing structure). Any idea what a 12x8 or 8x12 would cost in parts? With a decent set of plans I think may be the way to go. I'm not current on lumber prices at this point Jon - last time I checked I could do it for about 1k and I only frame on 16" centers with 2x4's. I'll see if I can find the efile and make it a pdf. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hiker88 22 Posted October 30, 2011 Rey, that's a pretty neat idea, and one I hadn't thought of. I was hoping to make something with a solid frame so I can hang critters in there during hunting season... but I suppose I could hang em from the tree out back instead. Something I need to look into some more. yup, that's the problem of the plastic sheds. You can hang anything on the aluminum frame and there are no accessories for hanging anything on the walls. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom609 27 Posted October 30, 2011 Try here... http://www.everlastsheds.com/contact.html I just bought one recently and I'm very satisfied. I had them build it, but the kits are available. Cost to build it added $235. Definitely worth it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
siderman 1,140 Posted October 30, 2011 i picked one up from 84 Lumber yrs ago and it was solid , true dimensional. Definitly build on landscape ties for foundation. I laid heavy plastic underneath and a little gravel on top to help keep out moisture from the ground. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted October 30, 2011 Definitely check with your town first otherwise you may experience a horrific nightmare when / if you ever plan on selling the house. I will echo what Dan said, and definitely go ahead and build one yourself. You'll get something that'll last much longer, fit what you want to do much better and can be customized however you want. Expect to pay for all building materials in the 1000-1500 dollar range but you'll be able to build something with a solid beam down the middle that you can hang a deer or w/e from if you want to. If you need any help picking stuff out or anything along those lines as far as architecturally related just let me know. PS do NOT put the shed on stones or railroad ties or anything of the sorts. Take the extra half day, rent a post hole digger at the minimum and put some piers in. You'll be thankful in two years when your shed isn't leaning to one side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hd2000fxdl 422 Posted October 30, 2011 Jon, I have 2 of the plastic ones I got from Costco, they are both 8X10 and they do have a add on kit that you can add 4 more feet to bring them out to 12X10. They were real easy to setup, my OL and I did both in about an 1.5 hours. There is some very light capacity shelving for the back wall but like I said not for anything heavy. The aluminum frame rails the hold up the roof are ok for some weight but I wouldn't push it too much. However you could always build some sort of support system inside for not too much coin. you would just need to add up the cost of supplies overall, I know each of the sheds I bought were on sale for I think around 900 bucks. A couple 4"x4" and a large section of pipe for under 50 to 75 bucks for a hanging system and your under a grand, and it's movable. Now if you want to build one from plans, or design your own, great, I just find the ones at Homedepot and Lowes and other places like that a little overpriced for what you can do on your own. Also if you do go the route of building your own and have at least a pancake compressor, you can borrow my pneumatic framing gun if you don't have access to one. I think it's this model: Bostitch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted October 30, 2011 PS do NOT put the shed on stones or railroad ties or anything of the sorts. Take the extra half day, rent a post hole digger at the minimum and put some piers in. You'll be thankful in two years when your shed isn't leaning to one side. Odd, that one. Mine is on Stone and ties and in 8 years, hasn't moved in the slightest.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bry@n 195 Posted October 30, 2011 I needed a 10x20 shed for all the lawn/ plow stuff we had. I decided in a 12x16 for permit reasons. I used a zone permit, anything over 200 sq ft I needed a building permit for and would need to do a concrete floor. I ended up doing 6x6 14x18 layout and level the blue stone base I put in. My neighbor was a dealer for sheds and hooked me up with a crazy deal. So they dropped in right on my base that I did. I think I had 2400-2500 into the whole thing. Has a garage door and a set of french doors along the front of it. I thought of building one but it was just easier going with one already built. My uses 2x4, has owens corning roof and I think the floor is 2x6 or 2x8 construction. If your interested, I can probably get the name of the company for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted October 30, 2011 Odd, that one. Mine is on Stone and ties and in 8 years, hasn't moved in the slightest.. Your lucky, for every one person that says it works for them, 10 people end up with an unlevel shed. The problem is, stone on the ground is just that, stone on the ground. Until you get below the frost line, you will always have the thaw and freeze of the ground which in turn will make the ground un-even. I'm dealing with that exact same problem at my brothers house, the previous owners just dumped some crushed stone on the ground and got a shed delivered on top of it. Now the shed is raised over one feet in the corner due to the ground changing that much. For what it costs to dump gravel some build a RR perimeter, if your going to build the deck yourself, putting in 6 12" diameter footings isn't really a big deal at all if you know what your doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
siderman 1,140 Posted October 30, 2011 Your lucky, for every one person that says it works for them, 10 people end up with an unlevel shed. The problem is, stone on the ground is just that, stone on the ground. Until you get below the frost line, you will always have the thaw and freeze of the ground which in turn will make the ground un-even. I'm dealing with that exact same problem at my brothers house, the previous owners just dumped some crushed stone on the ground and got a shed delivered on top of it. Now the shed is raised over one feet in the corner due to the ground changing that much. For what it costs to dump gravel some build a RR perimeter, if your going to build the deck yourself, putting in 6 12" diameter footings isn't really a big deal at all if you know what your doing. like any building project site location is a major factor too. hi & dry helps. Mine was rock solid for 15 yrs till we dis-mantled it and re-built it at my bros house. Never moved or sank but I tend to over compensate, my 8x8 ties were lapped at the crners and a spike driven thru. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted October 30, 2011 Your lucky, for every one person that says it works for them, 10 people end up with an unlevel shed. The problem is, stone on the ground is just that, stone on the ground. Until you get below the frost line, you will always have the thaw and freeze of the ground which in turn will make the ground un-even. I'm dealing with that exact same problem at my brothers house, the previous owners just dumped some crushed stone on the ground and got a shed delivered on top of it. Now the shed is raised over one feet in the corner due to the ground changing that much. For what it costs to dump gravel some build a RR perimeter, if your going to build the deck yourself, putting in 6 12" diameter footings isn't really a big deal at all if you know what your doing. for every one person that says it works for them, 10 people end up with an unlevel shed. 10 people are idiots. One foot means there was erosion, not frost heaving. I have probably 4-6 inches of QP under the ties then staked 36 inches of rebar through the ties though the qp and into the ground. Those that banged rocks got cut off. It would be impossible to put in footings with a post hole digger where I'm at. If you don't hit ledge, you hit boulders. If there was a 1 inch covering of QP you might have a problem, just make the base thicker and any heave just moves the stone underneath. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
halbautomatisch 60 Posted October 30, 2011 Definitely check with your town first otherwise you may experience a horrific nightmare when / if you ever plan on selling the house. I will echo what Dan said, and definitely go ahead and build one yourself. You'll get something that'll last much longer, fit what you want to do much better and can be customized however you want. Expect to pay for all building materials in the 1000-1500 dollar range but you'll be able to build something with a solid beam down the middle that you can hang a deer or w/e from if you want to. If you need any help picking stuff out or anything along those lines as far as architecturally related just let me know. PS do NOT put the shed on stones or railroad ties or anything of the sorts. Take the extra half day, rent a post hole digger at the minimum and put some piers in. You'll be thankful in two years when your shed isn't leaning to one side. Matt, only problem with footings is that a lot of towns will consider the shed a permanent structure if you secure it using footings, which then leads to permits and possibly an increase in your property taxes. If it's sitting on a bed a gravel, it's a movable object. It all depends on soil conditions as to whether or not your going to have problems with something moving or not. I've seen walls that were built totally incorrectly, and they were still standing because of good soil conditions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted October 30, 2011 Wow, thanks for all the tips and pointers everyone. I will definitely be PMing some of you in the near future. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted October 31, 2011 Matt, only problem with footings is that a lot of towns will consider the shed a permanent structure if you secure it using footings, which then leads to permits and possibly an increase in your property taxes. If it's sitting on a bed a gravel, it's a movable object. It all depends on soil conditions as to whether or not your going to have problems with something moving or not. I've seen walls that were built totally incorrectly, and they were still standing because of good soil conditions. In my opinion it is always better to get a permit and pay the itty bitty little extra taxes on a shed, then not having the permit, finding out you need the permit, and then the town sending you to me, so I can look at your shed and tell you that it's built completely wrong and now you need to redo it before I'll put my seal on it and certify it for the town. But because I have that background I will ALWAYS over build things, it's in my nature, same thing with engineers etc etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
halbautomatisch 60 Posted November 1, 2011 In my opinion it is always better to get a permit and pay the itty bitty little extra taxes on a shed, then not having the permit, finding out you need the permit, and then the town sending you to me, so I can look at your shed and tell you that it's built completely wrong and now you need to redo it before I'll put my seal on it and certify it for the town. But because I have that background I will ALWAYS over build things, it's in my nature, same thing with engineers etc etc. From experience I have learned that, whenever possible, getting permits should be avoided. Some of the crap I have seen towns make people go through over minor projects is ridiculous. Variances, topographical surveys, tree replacement schemes, and most towns favorite: impervious coverage issues. We are over regulated in this state, all this nonsense costs a lot of money and takes a long time to acquire if you even get it at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted November 1, 2011 Spoke with the zoning official. I need a zoning permit($25) for any structure under 100sq ft, even if rebuilding something that used to be there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted November 1, 2011 Like I said Tom, always better to get the permits otherwise you'll be sorry in the long run. If you ever plan to sell a house after you've done work without getting a permit, be prepared to get screwed over BIG time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hd2000fxdl 422 Posted November 1, 2011 Spoke with the zoning official. I need a zoning permit($25) for any structure under 100sq ft, even if rebuilding something that used to be there. Jon your not rebuilding it your just fixing it,, kind of like how many of us have had tragic boating accidents.. wink-wink Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites