Ok car guys, need some help

[henrym 19]

Long story short, my girlfriends '04 wrangler is throwing a bunch of trouble codes.

 

p1594-charging system voltage too high

p0352-ignition coil b primary/secondary code malfunction

p0135-02 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1

p0141-02 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2

p0300-random/multi cylinder misfire detected

p0302-cylinder 2 misfire detected

p0138-02 sensor circuit high voltage

p0305- cylinder 5 misfire detected

 

 

any suggestions gentleman?

[Anselmo 87]

How is it running?

[Tactical Turtle 11]

Well, my Chrysler sebring had those codes, not the exact numeric codes, but descriptions. I hope u have a warranty. Shortly after I got the codes I pulled my battery cables off let the CPU reset and put it all back together, 3 miles down the road the next morning my car just stops, get it towed to my buddies shop, after a few test my fuel pump isn't sending fuel, ok easy fix, replace it, still not working, test the leads no power. So we jump the fuel pump with a jumper box to give it power to make the car run. Wrong!!! Flood the engine. Do some research and it says ur fuel pump won't send fuel as a safety procedure if u have no spark. Guess what no spark, check ignition system its all good. We never found out what was wrong, I traded it in not running to lester Glenn and bought a new car. Few months later in a forum reading up on a similar problem with a durango. It was a combination of things, CPU, crank sensor, and some vacume valve. Idk. I can't speak for the durango, it wasn't mine, but he had the same problems and it cost him a lot. Take it to jeep let them figure it out. Also my car ran perfect before this happened when those codes were produced. Looking for the print out now so I can show u the exact codes and compare. I'm almost positive I had the same wording though

[Clintoon Eastwood 2]

You might want to search it online jeep forums instead of here, if it was Hondas I would love to help you. But American cars are not my forte, sorry

[henrym 19]

A little more background

 

It spetters under heavy braking, other than that it runs well.

 

In december it got a tank of bad gas but that was supposedly resolved.

[Melgamatic 66]

In december it got a tank of bad gas but that was supposedly resolved.

 

Sputtering under braking tells me that it wasn't fully resolved. Were all the fuel filters replaced? Sputtering under braking (or any acceleration/deceleration in any direction) usually means crap floating around somewhere.

[Clintoon Eastwood 2]

I got something like this that happened to a truck and it was a cracked intake manifold, but like I said I'm not familiar with American autos so that's my best guess. It has the symptoms of wrong air to fuel mixture, so cracked manifold would do that but I guess bad gas could do it too or add to it

[Krdshrk 3,878]

[M4BGRINGO 139]

Henry, you have a DVM? See what is at the battery with the engine off and then running. Text me tomorrow for a local guy that I use when I don't feel like working on stuff, I trust him. He may have the scanner to stick on there and help you out, but he is a busy guy (because he is actually honest!)

[Murphy4570 15]

Long story short, my girlfriends '04 wrangler is throwing a bunch of trouble codes.

 

p1594-charging system voltage too high

Put a DVOM on the battery while vehicle is running to confirm this. If alternator is charging above 14.5-15V, replace alternator. Voltage regulator is internal to alternator, non serviceable.

 

p0352-ignition coil b primary/secondary code malfunction

Possible faulty ignition coil pack, or a fault in wiring harness for coil. If COP, swap coils and see if code jumps to adjacent cylinder.

 

p0135-02 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1

p0141-02 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2

p0138-02 sensor circuit high voltage

 

Both O2 sensors are bad, replace them.

 

p0300-random/multi cylinder misfire detected

p0302-cylinder 2 misfire detected

p0305- cylinder 5 misfire detected

Misfire codes. Typically caused by worn down sparkplugs. Do a full tuneup and go from there.

 

 

 

 

 

any suggestions gentleman?

 

My replies are in RED

[Pew Pew Plates 358]

Whatever you do, don't take it to a dealership

[67gtonut 847]

Whatever you do, don't take it to a dealership

 

Wont even comment on this statement......

 

To OP..... Murphy had some good suggestions, but this is what I would do....

 

Find someone with a scanner ( but since you know the codes I assume you do)..... Clear the codes for now. As soon as the Check Engine Light comes back on, See what the 1st code(s) that came back were, that is generally a good starting point. With as many codes as you have, there might be only 1 issue, that can stack up codes in a system.

 

System voltage high or low, can cause havoc in today's computer controlled cars.....

[XDJohnTact 49]

Wont even comment on this statement......

 

To OP..... Murphy had some good suggestions, but this is what I would do....

 

Find someone with a scanner ( but since you know the codes I assume you do)..... Clear the codes for now. As soon as the Check Engine Light comes back on, See what the 1st code(s) that came back were, that is generally a good starting point. With as many codes as you have, there might be only 1 issue, that can stack up codes in a system.

 

System voltage high or low, can cause havoc in today's computer controlled cars.....

 

What he said, codes like to stack up, especially on Mopars. I always try to rectify the first code and see if that solves all the later ones, it usually does. I assume you are doing the key dance to pull the codes.

 

Start by checking the voltages running and not running (as previously stated). Many mid-2000s Mopars control the voltage through the computer, they may not have internal voltage regulators. Many problems are also caused by bad wires and bad grounds. Each are a real PITA to search out.

 

If your voltages are good, I would disconnect the battery cable, then disconnect all the connectors on the computer under the hood. Make sure they look clean and put them back on. Back off on the bolts holding the CPU (PCM, whatever you want to call it now-a-days) and tighten them back up. Then fire it back up and see if it thrown a code light again.

 

When you disconnect the battery to clear codes, the computer will go into a "recently re-set mode". A hard code will come back right away but a softy code might take up to 250 miles of driving to reappear.

 

Again, this would be my first steps, may not work in all cases but can't hurt. While you are under the hood, check the wires going to the coil pack to make sure they are not cut, worn, frayed. Sometimes a crtiier will get up in there and knaw at them which can make it throw codes.

 

I do not profess to be an expert but I have been fiddling with these things for a long time. Good luck with your fix!

[e80hydro 120]

Clear out those codes and see which ones come back.

[alec.mc 180]

Lots Of good advice above, jeeps are pretty easy to work on.

 

If it comes down to you needing a new fuel pump, I have a spare in my garage for a jeep tj

[mcbethr 42]

Oy... Now I know how Gentiles feel when us Jews talk about where to get the best corned beef sandwich...

[XDJohnTact 49]

Oy... Now I know how Gentiles feel when us Jews talk about where to get the best corned beef sandwich...

 

 

??

[A-Tech 8]

Sounds more like a bad ground somewhere, to me. The odds of ALL of those codes coming up at once is HIGHLY unlikely. Just because a code gets stored doesn't mean there is actually a problem with the sensor attached to that specific code. Don't go throwing parts at it. The best place to start with a scanner is the Freeze Frame. This will tell you what the initial fault was. A bad ground that is shared between the coil pack, O2 sensors, and alternator will cause random misfires/no start, over charging, and O2 failures. Bad grounds are an evil demon and commonly overlooked.

[DbleTrouble 8]

I don't have any experience with jeeps but had a strange issue like that on a 03 ram 1500. I checked everything down to resistance of wires and couldn't find the issue that was throwing an o2 sensor code. Spent 2 evenings fussing with it, tried three different sensors and in the end I knew it needed a computer reflash. Took it to the dealer and it was fine after that.

 

It's just strange that all those codes come up at once. That's why I'm suspecting the ECU.

 

For starters you will want to reset the codes and see if they come back. Try searching on jeep forums for similar issues that other people experienced.

[mcbethr 42]

??

Jews tend to pay other people to work on our cars... Reading that started to make my eyes glaze over... the same way a Gentile might fade out if we were arguing about the nuances of a Corned Beef Sandwich... bad joke... never mind.

[RedBowTies88 41]

I would replace the coils. Not very expensive and they may be the result of your intermittent misfire.

 

the o2 high voltage is probably a result of the misfire.

 

Heater circut most likely has nothing to do with your how its running and I wouldn't worry about it unless you notice a problem with the HVAC.

 

The high volt charging code is probaby a fluke or something related to the power to the coils possibly not being very sound... clear it out and see if it comes back

[XDJohnTact 49]

Those Mopars have had sporatic problems with the coils? Is it the 4cyl or a 6cyl? I think the heater circuit that they are talking about is the O2 sensor heater, not the HVAC heater.

[Adam 6]

NJJeep.org

 

Join, introduce, post in tech section.

[A-Tech 8]

Those Mopars have had sporatic problems with the coils? Is it the 4cyl or a 6cyl? I think the heater circuit that they are talking about is the O2 sensor heater, not the HVAC heater.

 

6cyl coil packs do have problems. They operate as a whole unit and commonly lose Cyl #3 & Cyl #5, also throwing a P0300-random misfire code. Correct on the heater also. Oxygen sensors have a heating element inside them to essentially speed up the process of reaching closed loop. Once again, if it fails to have a ground, it cannot complete the circuit and the heater will appear to have a malfunction.

 

I strongly believe this to be a bad ground. Whether its a chassis, engine, or internal ground in the PCM. Contrary to popular belief the PCM mostly operates by controlling ground circuits to components. OP, if you give me the engine code (8th VIN digit) I can look up any TSB's, recalls, or common issues from within a repair tech community known as Identifix. I can also look at some wiring diagrams to see if any of those components share a circuit.

[A-Tech 8]

I would replace the coils. Not very expensive and they may be the result of your intermittent misfire.

 

Coils are very expensive. Jeeps are typically around the $350 mark IIRC. Not something to just throw into a vehicle with multiple trouble codes that are unrelated.

 

When an OBDII computer reads a misfire on multiple/random cylinders, it will not set a code for an O2 heater circuit, or a O2 high/low voltage. It could set a code for being too rich since the cylinder isn't firing, and is still injecting fuel. Circuit/voltage codes are specific to just that.

[Turbotezza 1]

It seems to me all these problems could have been caused by too high a voltage in the system. If the regulator is indeed kaput, try disconnecting the alternator, run the vehicle just on the battery and see if it throws the same codes.

[djg0770 481]

I chased a bad ground on a 98 mopar for weeks and replaced several parts before I gave up and sent it to the dealer along with a HUGE letter of all that I had done and replaced. Took them $350 of diagnostic time to find the bad chassis grounds which solved the problems lickety split... Oh - and they had to replace ZERO parts.

 

So, count me in the "Bad Ground" diagnostic basket.

[TheLugNutZ 21]

I will 2nd with checking grounds/alternator 1st. Issues with them will cause a lot of other stuff to go and will end up throwing a ton of codes as a result.

[A-Tech 8]

It seems to me all these problems could have been caused by too high a voltage in the system. If the regulator is indeed kaput, try disconnecting the alternator, run the vehicle just on the battery and see if it throws the same codes.

 

That's a good theory, but the vehicle wouldn't run long enough without the alternator to run what's called "drive cycles" for the computer to set the codes again. Not to mention as the voltage dwindled down it would actually produce a different set of codes for low voltage and other miscellaneous component failures because it sees a lower than normal "bias" voltage.

[woodentoe 14]

Jews tend to pay other people to work on our cars... Reading that started to make my eyes glaze over... the same way a Gentile might fade out if we were arguing about the nuances of a Corned Beef Sandwich... bad joke... never mind.

 

nonsense. great joke.