Jump to content
GramGun79

Revolver Recommendations

Recommended Posts

34 minutes ago, GramGun79 said:

Once permits come in i will be looking to add a revolver to the family. What should i look at? not looking to brake the bank either. something in the $1000 range or less.

My MIL recently acquired a new 4” stainless 357 smith. I have no idea what number is ( 686?)Very nice Wheely.

needs rosewood grips  for bling.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, JohnnyB said:

My first real revolver was a S&W Model 19 Combat Masterpiece .357 Magnum. The stainless version is model 66. I highly recommend either! You can find a really nice used one in your price range!

Question, sorry if this is a silly question, also new to revolvers, do all .357 also take .38's

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a GP 100 that I am very happy with and would recommend to anyone looking for a revolver. S&W makes great revolvers, you can’t go wrong there. I recently picked up a Chiappa Single Action 22 with a 7 inch barrel and adjustable sights. It comes with a 22lr and a 22 Mag cylinder. It’s a nice gun for plinking and target shooting. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, GramGun79 said:

Once permits come in i will be looking to add a revolver to the family. What should i look at? not looking to brake the bank either. something in the $1000 range or less.

Any thing that has S&W.....  on it...  lol

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Bklynracer said:

Question, sorry if this is a silly question, also new to revolvers, do all .357 also take .38's

Yes....i actually have a 357 astra that i use for 38 special reloads I acquired....and good thing a few were quite hot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, JohnnyB said:

My first real revolver was a S&W Model 19 Combat Masterpiece .357 Magnum. The stainless version is model 66. I highly recommend either! You can find a really nice used one in your price range!

Me too! I got a 19-2

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As [mention=6361]JohnnyB[/mention] said. But not all .38’s take .357.
the one I pictured is .38 +p only


Actually, if the firearm is chambered for .38... it can’t take .357s. They are physically longer so they can’t chamber.

So, no .38 really can take a .357.

Are there .38 revolvers that a .357 can fit in? Yes, and most likely, a previous owner had the cylinder reamed to allow that (common with some old police guns). Either way, if it doesn’t say .357 on the gun, don’t shoot them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/750274092

came across this one...looks like a local seller. Don't like that he only accepts USPS money orders. could be a scam?

as far as the deal..is this over priced. Says its like new. Can one of you pros take a look and give me some feedback.

Thanks 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, GramGun79 said:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/750274092

came across this one...looks like a local seller. Don't like that he only accepts USPS money orders. could be a scam?

as far as the deal..is this over priced. Says its like new. Can one of you pros take a look and give me some feedback.

Thanks 

First, yes it is over priced. Second, from the sellers description, it is hard to tell if the recall has been done. The indicator that it has been done is an"M" stamped adjacent to the serial number. The problem is that Smith at times used "M" to stand for model, i.e. M686-1 / A recall completed gun would have it above, below or beside the model number. Recall still open, but who wants the hassle of sending a gun back after just acquiring it?

I'd ask what you intend to do with this to help guide any recommendation. Hard to go wrong with any 586/686, but I favor the 4" barrel / 6-shot configuration in those models.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Pizza Bob said:

First, yes it is over priced. Second, from the sellers description, it is hard to tell if the recall has been done. The indicator that it has been done is an"M" stamped adjacent to the serial number. The problem is that Smith at times used "M" to stand for model, i.e. M686-1 / A recall completed gun would have it above, below or beside the model number. Recall still open, but who wants the hassle of sending a gun back after just acquiring it?

I'd ask what you intend to do with this to help guide any recommendation. Hard to go wrong with any 586/686, but I favor the 4" barrel / 6-shot configuration in those models.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

Thanks for the reply. There will not be a specific use for it, Just would like to add one to my collection being that i don't own any wheel guns. Most likely will be a range gun and might get sometime at my bed side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get a nice L or N frame Smith or a GP100 for well under your $1000.  Beefier than K frame guns and will hold up better.  Stay away from J frame 357s.  Recoil is brutal and you really wont want to shoot magnums in them for fun.  I wouldn't consider buying a Colt unless you're collecting.  Go with the Smith or Ruger for shooting.  Resale value?  Yeah, Colts will go up faster.  If you get any decent quality gun, take reasonable care of it,  and hold on to it long enough you will be able to sell it for multiples of what you paid for it 

I'm partial to a 4" barrel for general use in a 357.  Long enough to shoot accurately.  Not too long to conceal.  4" and the power range of OTC ammo in 38 and 357 you can do just about anything.  I read about a guy who killed a Cape Buffalo with a 357.  He hadn't planned on shooting anything but when he was treed by the Buffalo he was glad he brought the 357 

For prices look at some of the on line dealers and see what they're asking. Most guns on Gunbroker and Gunsamerica are overpriced IMO.  There are some deals people get but not many.

Don't worry about action jobs.  Smooth is more important than light. Ruger triggers are usually a bit heavier than Smiths IMO.  Both triggers come pretty smooth from the factory.  Solve the heavy by building up the muscles in your hands and fingers.

JMO

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • We never let then inside.  Last re-evaluation was 6-7 years ago, wife politely told him that he was welcome to look around the property and he could look in the windows. He saw two white resin chairs in the basement and told her that this constituted a finished basement. And everything in the basement is bare concrete/ cinder block, and mechanical systems. Nothing finished about it. Ultimately he relented and I'm sure that was a ploy to coerce us to allow him in
    • I use an Alien Gear cloak tuck (IWB) with my Shield.  Neoprene back - in the summer it does feel warm but doesn't rub or chafe.   https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-iwb-holster.html Could also go with the shapeshift as it has multiple options - OWB/IWB, Appendix... https://aliengearholsters.com/ruger-lcp-shapeshift-modular-holster-system.html
    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
×
×
  • Create New...