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I'm a little confused by this. Don't mean to sound like a dick here but your looking for a job that requires fighting huge criminals everyday but you don't want to do push ups?

You primarily put a brake on for function, I have a SJC titan brake that will loosen your fillings but you can triple tap like it was a 22. If someone shooting next to you is offended by your " loud " brake the should take up bird watching or something similarly quiet.

Putting this in a separate thread so it doesn't get lost in the sauce. Sounds like there's a lot of former military on here.... fyi, there's an effort afoot to honor a JROTC student who was killed when he was helping others escape from the building during the 2/14 shooting. Just FYI, in case someone wants to participate. Far healthier IMO to honor the brave than to keep plastering the face of the shooter all over the place. Link: https://www.redstate.com/sarah-rumpf/2018/02/17/military-members-rally-honor-peter-wang-jrotc-hero-killed-florida-school-shooting/

Attached you will find the course(s) of fire that NJ LEO (and retired) use to do their twice-yearly qualification. NJleoQual.pdf

If you are looking to sell something, review something, ask for information on something, or show off your new toy, you're likely going to take some pictures. This is a by-no-means-exhaustive guide to get you started in the right direction of taking quality photographs. (Think more documenting, less artistic.) Most of these tips apply to any camera from a cell phone to a DSLR. You may have to adapt the concept to your specific equipment, skills, and situation. Best bet - read this, then experiment and expand on these tips on your own. If you have questions, there are more than a few photographers on this forum. If you are the TL;DR type, here's the gist of this: MAKE SURE YOUR SUBJECT HAS PLENTY OF LIGHT ON IT, BUT DIFFUSE YOUR LIGHT - A LARGER LIGHTING SURFACE AREA IS BETTER, and KNOW EVERY CAMERA HAS A MINIMUM FOCUS DISTANCE AND NEEDS DECENT CONTRAST TO FOCUS. Oh, and CHECK YOUR SHOTS ACTUALLY CAME OUT BEFORE PUTTING EVERYTHING AWAY. /TL:DR For the rest of you, thank you for reading - I know it's a bit long. There are two things I see that bug me in countless posts online, be it here, ebay, some enthusiast website, or wherever. First annoyance is poorly (or totally un-) focused shots, and the second is poorly lit shots. I'll cover lighting first. ____________________________________________________________ Photography is essentially the process of capturing light. When trying to clearly show the subject, a brightly lit area is typically going to be better than a dim dungeon lit by one bulb. Many cameras automatically adjust the ISO (sensitivity/"film speed") and introduce significant grain/noise in dark areas, ruining quality of the photo. Furthermore, poorly lit subjects will mean your camera must expose the picture for longer, leading to your movement blurring the picture. That said, a small, bright, focused light can be worse than a larger, dimmer, diffused light source. Your camera might use the onboard flash in darker conditions, which is almost always a poor choice for things as shiny as guns (not to mention produces poor quality lighting in general). Whatever your light source, you will want the majority of light behind you (or at least behind the lens), facing away from the front of the camera lens, unless you want a silhouette shot. The goal is a BROAD, EVEN LIGHT. The larger the surface area of light, the better off you are likely to be. You can use a few cheap tricks to help your lighting. If you are shooting outdoors: -Under direct noon sun - don't. Find some light shade and shoot there if possible (think under a gazebo or overhang or porch - somewhere that's still bright, but not under direct sun) If not available, wait for a cloud to cover the sun if possible. -Under cloudy/overcast sky - this is actually better lighting than direct sun because the entire sky is essentially the light source -You may still want to use a flash to soften harsh shadows under certain circumstances If shooting indoors: -Shoot near windows letting in lots of light during the day, though not in direct sun if possible (thin white blinds may work great as a diffuser) -Shoot near windows letting in lots of light and use a light bounce to increase area lighting or to light your subject itself - a light bounce could be a large white piece of cardboard/foam core or a reflective solar window blocker for a car windshield, placed in the direct sunlight, used to bounce light to the ceiling (general lighting) or onto your subject (making just that subject brighter, works best if someone else holds the bounce to direct the light for you). -Turn on ALL the lights in the area you're shooting if sunlight isn't an option - if your kitchen has 3 sets of 4 lights, turn em all on so you have 12 lights on -Add light - we probably all have some bright flashlight or portable worklights available, turn them on and add some diffusion to soften the light. I often use a piece of printer paper taped to a flashlight to give a larger surface area of light as a secondary light source (either a flat piece, or more like a bonnet with both ends of the paper taped to the flashlight). -On-camera flash can and should be diffused too if you must use it - wax paper or plastic helps diffuse the light. Imagine a pipe clamp or omega-symbol-shaped ( Ω ) piece taped around the flash to increase the light's surface area. Just be sure to not cover the camera lens, or you may get lens flare or other problems, especially on cell phones where the flash is millimeters away from the lens itself. For all shooting: -If you only have one light to shoot with - diffuse it. There are two good ways to do so - something the light must go through (wax paper, thin fabrics, tupperware, thin white garbage bags, etc), or something the light is bounced off of before hitting your subject (cardboard, foamcore, thicker fabrics, large storage container lid, even printer paper). Either way, make sure to give the light at least a little distance to spread out before diffusing it - you'll have a larger surface area that way. -For details, don't just shoot with the light directly aimed at the detail. Experiment, but try angling the light 45° offset from the subject so there is some shadow in the detail - it will stand out much better this way. I will often use a diffused flashlight for this type of work if I don't want to get a large setup out for a single shot -Hot spots are super bright spots where light has not been diffused enough and shines directly at the lens, causing areas that have washed out white spots with zero detail, and may cause underexposure. Be especially careful of this on stainless/nickel guns, though you can get this on any super shiny surface (including backgrounds, optics, and blued guns). Most often caused by the sun or camera flash -Remember backgrounds matter, too. Shiny surfaces like marble countertops may reflect light back and cause hot spots and inaccurate exposures, a black background may make your subject not stand out enough (and the camera may overexpose the shot). A cluttered background may be distracting from your subject too. -If the only possible way to take a picture is under dim light (sorry cell phone cameras, you're not gonna cut it here), use a tripod and slow shutter speed with a remote or delayed shutter release to expose the subject for a much longer time - it might take seconds to get a proper exposure, so don't move the camera/tripod, or even walk around behind the camera -Raise the subject off the background if possible. If you can evenly raise the subject off the background an inch, you can diffuse shadows a bit, especially with lots of diffused light. Any small objects (that won't shift) that you can hide under the subject to raise it will help. -Don't forget about your own (or the camera's) shadow. The larger the surface area of lighting, the less your shadow will show up. The more direct and pinpoint the light source, the harder and darker your shadow will be. Think noontime sunlight vs florescent office light. -You should notice I keep saying reflective surface or white ____ when talking about bouncing light - there is a reason for this. The most ideal colors are silver or white, though lighter greys or gold can also work. Other colors will not bounce light as well and/or will add unwanted colors to your picture. Don't use a mirror as a bounce, except when used to add indirect lighting (such as directing more light onto the ceiling). Remember, the goal is a large, broad, even, diffused, soft kind of light. A white ceiling with lots of light directed on it is potentially many square feet of bright light, while even the external camera flash on an SLR is only a few square inches. A cell phone camera flash can be measured in square millimeters. Did I mention diffuse your light? ____________________________________________________________ OK, onto focus. Cameras need CONTRAST to focus. Without enough light, a camera probably can't focus anyway, so that's why I covered lighting first. ALL LENSES HAVE A MINIMUM FOCUS DISTANCE. GETTING CLOSER TO YOUR SUBJECT IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER! I see so many pictures where someone tried to get too close to capture detail and failed miserably. With ~90% of cameras and lenses, if you are closer to your subject than 3" away, you're probably not going to get focus on the area you want in focus - if anything. If your camera cannot focus on the subject, try these things first: -MOVE BACK (you are probably be too close) -Get better/more light (try angling the light source a little differently so there is increased contrast the camera can grab focus on, and make sure no light is shining directly into the lens itself [see hot spots above]) -Try focusing somewhere else on the subject (i.e. a full stock AR doesn’t have much detail on the stock, but the receiver or rail or handgrip probably has a lot of textures/details, which means contrast the camera can grab focus on) -Clean your lens (especially cell phone cameras, bright light hitting a dirty lens full of fingerprints and dust can't focus as well as a clean lens) -If on an SLR, make sure you're not set to manual focus (some of those MF switches are easy to hit) If your camera has optical zoom* and you want to get more detail, it is often better to step back and zoom in than it is to just get closer with the camera. Be aware certain lenses change their minimum focus distance when zooming. SLR owners - while your camera may have a macro mode, unless your lens is designed as a macro lens, you are only changing settings of the camera, NOT allowing a closer minimum focus distance. *Optical zoom is what the camera lens itself can do. Digital zoom is interpolation beyond whatever image you'd get at the highest optical zoom. Note that digital zoom is crap. YOU ARE NOT 'ZOOMING" - YOU ARE CROPPING. Only use it for times where you don't want to do any cropping after you take the picture. As of writing this, very very very few cell phones have any optical zoom whatsoever, only digital zoom. Select where to focus. Many cameras allow you to select the focus area. Many cell phones will allow you to tap the screen where you want to focus. A P&S camera will usually show you where it is focusing if you halfway-depress the shutter button, same for most SLR cameras, but you can almost always select which specific focus point you want to use on an SLR. Some cameras have the option of zooming in (during live view) on the focused area to preview the exact focus - especially useful if on a tripod. Just remember to pick areas that have enough contrast that the camera can achieve focus. With decent lighting, your shutter speeds should be adequate enough to prevent your own movement from blurring the shot. If you must shoot in poor light, you'll have slow shutter speeds, which introduces blur. Holding a camera at arms length is the absolute worst way to take a picture - you want as much steady, sturdy support as you can get for a clear, sharp shot. A tripod is best, but make sure the camera setup is not too heavy so that the camera doesn't tip over. If the camera/lens has it, image stabilization will likely help for marginal shutter speeds. Resting an edge of the camera (NEVER A LENS BARREL) on a sturdy surface will help. If nothing else, take your non-camera hand and grip your opposite shoulder (making a triangle with your non-camera arm and back), and then resting the camera inside the ^ formed by your arm - even better results will occur if you can sit or lean against something using that method. If your camera has it, use a continuous shooting mode and hold down the shutter release for a few shots in a row. Much like jerking a trigger screws up your shooting, jerking the shutter release screws up your....shooting. Resting my camera in the ^ of my arm, leaning against a wall, and using burst mode has gotten shots I could absolutely never have gotten otherwise with the gear I had with me. You'll have a lot of terrible shots you have to delete, but it can be worth it. ____________________________________________________________ One other general tip before you go: CHECK YOUR RESULTS BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING AWAY. I'm ashamed to admit that I've screwed up this basic step more than once, and it takes way less time to check your pictures came out how you wanted than it does to set up again and put away everything two times. ____________________________________________________________ If you keep these tips in mind when shooting, your pictures should come out much better. With some experimentation, they should be very easy to implement into your photography, without adding much time to however you typically set up to shoot now. Quality photos increase the quality of almost any content you are posting. They can be helpful for people needing reference photos, make your items look that much better when you want to show off, or help you when selling items. I flat out refuse to buy from private sellers using terrible photos - I always suspect they are covering up something. Quality photos also may help you out in case someone claims damage that was not there when you sold the item. Good luck and happy shooting! -Malice

Just watched that video. I will apply. If I get denied ( which will most likely be the result) then at least I helped the cause by boosting the stats in the wrongfully denied column by +1. If there's not a lot of people who have applied for CCW, then it could look like not a lot of people are interested in exercising that right and the state already thinks it's ok to take that right away. It's worth applying so I can put my name down as one who wants his 2A rights. I'm going to wait to turn in a CCW application until I get my most recent P2P back. I applied to my local NJSP barracks in November of last year and still have not got it back. The firearms unit in Trenton said the paperwork was approved on January 2nd, but it never came back to the local barracks for me to pick up. I actually got in touch with Stephen Sweeney's office (he's covers my area of NJ) about this unnecessary and preventable infringement on my 2A right and they have started a process to investigate. I know it usually takes a long time in NJ, but if I have to follow all these rules down to the last red hair then they should too. The law says they have 30 days. It's been way longer than that so the only thing I have to do while I wait is to complain about it. So I want to settle this matter before I start another paperwork process with them.

Please lets not go through the whole sky is falling thing again ..... Just get what you want that is currently legal now, don't worry about what may or may not happen in the future.

I took Bob's advice..... I just kinda followed my heart and went with what I had initially been drawn to. 4" SSR, has the looks I want, true 6 -shooter, competition legal if I ever go down that path. Pics and follow up when it comes in

This

I have the gamma 556 and the 556 ex. I really like them

Just picked up a ka bar “utility” fighting knife. It’s my new camp knife.

Me and my better half decided to go for our 10 year anniversary. Awesome place but VERY hectic. Figured you guys would appreciate this 20180218_115623.mp4

I prefer multi day classes if training - multiple 10-16 hour days (breaks as needed for food, instruction, and rest). I retain more, even if it’s a fraction of what’s covered by the instructor. An occasional 1 day (8-12 hour) class as a tune up is good too. For practice sessions I stay as long as it takes to complete my range plan. Go to the range with a plan. Have a drill or two that lets you work on a skill. Limit how much ammo you bring. Avoid ballistic masturbation. If you do it right, you can make each round you fire make you better. If taking new shooters, I stay as long as it takes to make them feel accomplished without getting too fatigued.

NOVUS 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SI1IAbGKNNZEM works on motorcycles.... vroom vroom!

How I check factory zero is i stand my scope up on a mirror, I look into it and you should only see one set of cross hairs. If you see two cross hairs make the proper adjustments windage and elevation till you only see one. Its really easy.

My local department was very friendly and understood why I was applying. Told me I don't have a chance, but I knew that going in. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

That's NRA course 101 QUALIFYING is dramatically Different see njJoniGuy's post...

There is NOT, but per the NJSP, each town can add requirements like qualification, What fire arm will you be carrying, and Finger prints.... ALL Bullshit, but Just what Scott Bach wants!

Fudds are no better than anti 2As.

No. You’re right. It’s not. But.... Shoot a Modified Navy Qual* with a crowned barrel. Then shoot it with a well designed comp/brake attached. Compare your times. A quality device makes a difference. * Modified Navy Qualification Distance: 50 yard line Target: 8” circle (NRA B8 8 ring) Passing Time: 24 seconds Prep: Load 3 mags with 5 rounds each. Load one mag and store the other 2 on your body appropriately for reloads. Course of fire: 5 rounds standing, speed reload, 5 rounds kneeling, speed reload, 5 rounds prone. Scoring: Each round out of the 8” circle adds 1 second to your time. Any shots off the paper, DQ.

I agree. The physical requirements are there for a reason. And if anyone wants to do that kind of potentially dangerous work, he/she should also consider that being in top condition could, in fact, make the difference between life and death in certain situations. @tblant... your step-daughter might be well-served by spending some time really thinking about her career choice and trying to figure out... what exactly appeals to her about that particular job (the authority? the risk? the structure? the environment? the uniform? etc.) If it turns out she just can't meet the physical demands, there may well be a dozen or more other careers that would fulfill her desires just as nicely (or even more) without the physical demands! I'm sure she has options. EMT, prison nurse, DOC administrator, private investigator are careers that immediately come to mind that might hold some appeal for her, again depending on her unique motivations and interests. I don't know how old your step-daughter is, but I do know that public schools do a pretty poor job of showing kids a multitude of career options... and so sometimes they tend to latch on to one idea (almost by accident) and then they're just crushed if it doesn't work out. FYI, there's something called the Strong Interest Inventory... it's widely used at college career centers, etc. It's been validated over many years of use. It's a multi-question inventory with questions like this: Would you prefer to a) bandage a wound, b) fix a radio, c) landscape a yard... etc., etc. It's takes no more than an hour to fill out as I recall. Then, the results are compared to profiles of people across all occupations and it tells you which occupations your answers aligned with the most closely. (Because, yeah, studies do show that similar "types" of people tend to be attracted to the same lines of work). My point is, it doesn't just give you one option, it gives you multiple options... and sometimes the results are rather surprising! But, either way, it does tend to spark ideas of career options to explore. (That's never a bad thing... even if she does become a Corrections Officer, she might enjoy a career change at some future point... it's good to stay flexible). I personally don't do that kind of test-based career counseling... I've considered getting certified in a few assessment tools, but the people I work with are mostly higher professional/executive levels and are already well along their career track. So, it probably wouldn't pay for me to go that route (though I find it quite interesting!) But, if your step-daughter hasn't done something like that before, she might really benefit from it. So, if interested... PM me, I can at least give you some suggestions on how to track that down.

Hah yeah - well, if you're shooting fast, you want it as flat as possible to stay on target.

Because recoil from a 223 is a mutherfucker.

My dad has Life Alert... shockingly, he ordered it himself (after refusing to do so after my brother and I recommended it numerous times before... I guess once a stubborn mule... always a stubborn mule! LOL). In any event, the only time it was used is when he was grating Parmesan cheese in his kitchen and accidently pressed the pendant around his neck ... oh dear, they sent the cavalry!! The downside is he's hard of hearing, so if he hadn't see the flashing lights..?... yeah, they would have busted through the front door... and that would have been the most expensive block of Italian cheese EVER. But, nonetheless, it IS a potentially life-saving service that seems worth it for the extra peace of mind. BTW, we test the gadgets monthly as directed to make sure they're operational and so far we've not had a problem. FYI, I took up this offer myself at one point and got on the phone with "Mrs. Fishnut, The Eldercare Expert Extraordinaire". She was a fountain of information! We'll be moving to a live-in companion situation at some point soon and she just quickly laid out all the common pitfalls of that particular situation as well as what we needed to do to mitigate the risks. And yes, indeed, she mentioned things I never even would have considered... like if a companion is in the house 24x7, they get "tenant's rights" - which can be a big old can of worms. So, after a quick 15 min call, I felt "armed with information". Soooo helpful! She's a good egg.

Ya. Good movie

Screw all this nonsense. Do what you want. I’m not changing jack. I am also not going out and buying as many ARs as I can afford. Past, present and future. Explain to me why the hell you need dozens of ARs? You can only shoot one at a time. Buy one or two of your fav or the best of the best. If it ever comes to confiscate, they will take all and you lose a ton of money. If you hide one or many, where you going to shoot them? This whole thing is crazy. 🤪 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Levang Linear Comp - directs it forward. If you don't like the look, I've had good results with the Spikes Dynacomp - it's not as concussive or blasty as some others.

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Do you think I could apply to the Federal Government as an immigrant fleeing persecution and they’ll let me pop up a tent on Base?

Nice post Malice. You gave a lot of great info. FWIW I live in manual exposure & still use my Leica 35mm rangefinders. 50 years exp. behind the camera, from news work & sports to still-lifes & commercial, portraits & weddings using every format from 35mm up to Sinar 4x5 View Camera (film) and Fuji & Nikon digital. My Gossen Luna-Pro exposure meter is 46 years old & still works! Someday we ought to have a drink

Just so you realize.....They are like potato chips, you can't have just one!

Not replacing, building my first AR15

That's putting it mildly!

And @Zeke knows his shit! Surefire brake is the way to go. I have a Battle Comp on one of my rifles which also works great.

No sky is falling my friend! There are those that say buy as many AR s as you can now! There are those who are in a panic looking to sell everything black! I choose to do nothing right now until I know all the facts!

Pinned thread protector might be my best bet...sighhh

Bob is the wheelgun boss. Do what he says. My wife got her first-ever gun today. SP101 4 inch 357. Fits her hand and felt comfortable to balance.

Everyone is an expert. Let them make their own decisions. We have been using copper for over 100 years, but what do we know. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

My HK45 with 200gr ammo is pretty soft shooting. Use a gat that's heavier slinging those lighter bullets would be almost like shooting a .22lr

The only reason to buy a PC gun is if that what you want only comes from there. Example, barrel length, gun config, model , etc Buying a PC gun with the illusion that it will have a magically better trigger over a Pro Series gun will leave you very disappointed.

When I go with @GRIZ it’s more like

1. Public? No. 2. Go for it. 3. In the right area, far far away. 4. LOL

Better than $300+ trip to Robar...

Pics?

So, as promised I am giving you my follow-up report. I was dressed in Business attire on my way home from work and stopped by my local PD. I was greeted by a friendly woman and told her I would like an application for a concealed carry permit. Her smile washed away and the questions started. Are you a ret LEO- me No Are you a a Jeweler-me No Are you a security blah blah blah- me No Her- we NEVER have given an approval here ever. Me- That's ok. Here's the app and it must include specific photos, filled out and signed in front of a notary, along with $50 app fee and you must use XYZ for fingerprints More $. Her-But I told you no one has ever been approved. I said thank you, see you in a few days. My take is this is a cultural thing with these people and how DARE you challenge us....I'll be back. I expect to be part of every lawsuit that happens. People, you either stand for your beliefs and do this or take a seat in the stands to watch. I Prefer to be in the 3% that will stand up to tyranny. What will you do?

now i just learned something else tonight. i put the harness on her when i walked her tonight. it's the kind with the d-ring in front right at her chest. she stood still while i put it on, but got antsy a couple times....easily solved by petting her belly. adjusted it, leashed her, and went out for a walk. she was literally a different dog. she'd give very super light tugs here n there, but no pulling ahead of me, no pulling towards someones yard 'cause she smelled their pets, none of that crap. and tonights walk was almost 2 miles......normally just under a mile. i'm learning something new every night it seems. i'm happy with that.

A prong collar along with positive re-enforcement (treats) will be quick and effective leash training.

Update #2: Boyd's stock does NOT fit - the angle and shape of the stock are simply not compatible. Browning Shorttrac and Stalker stocks are available from Nunrich, they use the same spacer and stock pads as well. There is a walnut or synthetic version. Rear stock is direct fit, front stock requires some sanding. Fit and finish is great, the comb is just fine even on larger optics. The rails can be removed from the forend, small pan head machine screws can nicely fill the holes left behind. The end result is a very nice, featureless, magazine fed semi auto .308!